i think i need a rebuild kit....

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sidwin

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i've been noticing a lot of brake dust since i upgraded to the galfer pads i got from sean. but today i noticed something really weird... the left side of the wheel has WAY WAY more brake dust then the right side. I can barely see any on the right side. I just put in new springs and the calipers went in easily but ever since i upgraded the pads i have been hearing some squeaking. I've never rebuilt a caliper before. some directions would be great. where do you guys go to buy stock yamaha parts? Sean if u're reading this message send me a caliper rebuild kit :)

Thanks,
Sid
 
also what i think is weird my bike only had 4k on it weird to need a rebuild already. should i rebuild both fronts or is it time to get busa brakes :) any of those direct bolt on solution?
 
No busa setup for the late model forks yet. You can usually just take it apart, clean the pistons, and reassemble. Most don't clean the pistons off before pushing them back in for the new pads and end up shoving the dirt/grime back in behind and under the seals.

Sean
 
That's what I was thinking too - if you're getting that much dust you must have a sticking caliper forcing the pad against the rotor causing premature wear.
 
No busa setup for the late model forks yet. You can usually just take it apart, clean the pistons, and reassemble. Most don't clean the pistons off before pushing them back in for the new pads and end up shoving the dirt/grime back in behind and under the seals.

Sean

sounds like a need for another morley video :) so when u say take it apart, do i split the caliper or just take the pads out spray some cleaner and call it a day? if i split it can i reuse the seals/rings?

Thanks,
SId
 
ok got the suspected caliper off... took the pads off and proceeded to check the pistons when i noticed lower one moves 5x more than upper pistons. then i noticed i couldn't push one of them back and had to use a c clamp... she was able once i got her to move a tad with the clamp...

so i split the caliper in half to put the c clamp on... how do i get the pistons out of there?

thanks,
sid
 
Usually you pop them out with compressed air. But if stuck, use hydraulic fluid (reconnect to brake line and pump brake lever). Use a piece of wood between the moving pistons (AND the other side caliper if also removed!!) while popping the offending one.
 
Last edited:
http://www.partshark.com/fiche_sect...y=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2001&fveh=1031

ok can someone explain to me... to rebuild one caliper how many CALIPER SEAL KIT
3HE-W0047-50-00 will i need? is it two per caliper or two per bike?

I'm thinking i should go ahead and do both front calipers while i'm at it.

Thanks,
Sid

i nicked one of my pistons with my screw driver so i'm thinking of also doing PISTON ASY,CALIPER
3HE-W0057-50-00

Thanks,
Sid
 
I think you need one seal kit (or piston kit with seals) per caliper. I have a bunch of stock calipers that I could send you if you didn't want to bother with it (for cheap). ALSO, i have a few sets of upgrade r1/r6 calipers I could sell you (or you could get some on ebay too which would be a bit cheaper then I would be).

Sean
 
sean,

what would i have to do to get the r1/r6 calipers to work? do i have to change rotors? can i still use my current master brake cylinder? give me a package price for everything i need to do this in the front.

also let me know how much u want for a good/clean/working stock caliper :) my only reason for thinking of saving these is the fact i just bought those front ebc hh pads from you :) Also give me a price on a set of brake lines for the stock setup.

thanks,
sid
 
Looking at $30 for an OEM caliper (though you may need to clean it up). $100 plus shipping for a set of R1 Calipers (used pads but should have a lot of life in them). They will bolt on without any modifications at all. Braided brake lines run $80 for the fronts or custom length for $85 (the R1 likes a shorter line though they can work with the stock line)

Sean
 
http://www.partshark.com/fiche_sect...y=Motorcycles&make=YAMAHA&year=2001&fveh=1031

ok can someone explain to me... to rebuild one caliper how many CALIPER SEAL KIT
3HE-W0047-50-00 will i need? is it two per caliper or two per bike?

I'm thinking i should go ahead and do both front calipers while i'm at it.

Thanks,
Sid

i nicked one of my pistons with my screw driver so i'm thinking of also doing PISTON ASY,CALIPER
3HE-W0057-50-00

Thanks,
Sid

Not sure about the nicked piston. But my 85 seals were fine. Pistons stuck with crusty old fluid. I used compressed air with paint stir sticks to push the pistons out evenly. Wrap it in a rag tightly. Cleaned everything up and works great now.

Cut a bolt down to the inside diameter of the piston and turn a nut on. Insert and loosen the nut to secure the bolt inside the piston. Then grab it with vice grips and pull after you have pushed them out as far as you can with air.
 
Looking at $30 for an OEM caliper (though you may need to clean it up). $100 plus shipping for a set of R1 Calipers (used pads but should have a lot of life in them). They will bolt on without any modifications at all. Braided brake lines run $80 for the fronts or custom length for $85 (the R1 likes a shorter line though they can work with the stock line)

Sean


sean,

how's the stock master brake cylinder handle the larger calipers? does the lever travel further or will i be able to maintain 2 finger braking?

sounds like a winner... also what color is it?

i took mine completely apart and cleaned everything up. there was definitely something in that brake fluid. i saw little crap in there. she's all cleaned up now. but i haven't taken her out.. maybe should just ride around until my r1's show up :)

THanks,
Sid
 
I think the sets I have are blue centers though I might have a gold center set too. They aren't larger (also 4 piston) but have smaller more accurate passages so the lever travel will actually be slightly reduced (you may not even notice it).

Sean
 
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