mymax04
Well-Known Member
are the main air correctors in the sage 7 kit just supose to go in that hole? I dont have to remove that brass thing?
main air correctors
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Correct. Kit should have come with glue. Just put a dab on the bottom.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
cool sounds easy enuf now where dose this crankcase orfice go? Ive got the main jets in thanks to your thread is was easy as pie.
that sure is a big tube of glue compared to how much I used is that right?
that sure is a big tube of glue compared to how much I used is that right?
mymax04
Well-Known Member
all right everything has been smooth up to this point now its time to change the needles ive got one out does that plastic screw head unscrew? I guess we'll find out
still havent figured out where that orfice goes
still havent figured out where that orfice goes
Press fit the orifice in the stock crank case breather hose.
Yes, remove nylon screw. There will be a spring and washer underneath that sitting on the top of the needle.
Yep, way more glue that what's needed.
Yes, remove nylon screw. There will be a spring and washer underneath that sitting on the top of the needle.
Yep, way more glue that what's needed.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
Well everything went ok I have a couple of things left to do. I havent made up my mind to drill or not to drill my chrome tops but I havent figured any other option. then Ineed to sync & then probabaly adjust my air fuel mix screws. they are all at 2.5 right now..... after I sync them start with one turn it in until it stumbles & back until it comes out of it & so on & then maybe resync or not? I did fire it up just to see if it was actually going to run & it did. when I first started it it wanted to pop back a couple of times but I think air/fuel screws will help that. but really I cant do anything more besides drill holes until they are synced
You don't have to drill the filters for your breather setup. You can remove the puke tank and just use a small K&N filter. Or, keep the setup and fasten the hoses to something. The orifice prevents oil from getting into the air filters.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
what if I found 2 small filters that fit on each of the tubes & turned them up and slid them on?
Yeah, best to look in a mower repair shop for filters that small.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
Garry, looks awesome! Great job!
mymax04
Well-Known Member
Im making velocity stacks now & I cut them at 4in & had them all cleaned up & ready to go when I found that my couplers say 2" but they look way big & the stacks need to go down to 3" :bang head:
Garry, correct. I made mine 3 inches long with 2 inch diameter copper pipe. You can also use exhaust pipe too. To mount to carbs could use radiator hose/clamps or cuts some rubber pipe coupler from Home Depot.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
hey mark I have all my pieces cut. did it twice and they are all 3 in exactly. I had to go back to home depot because the original couplers I bought said 2" but they measured like 2 3/8" so I took the pipe with me & found that the 1 1/2" fit nice & tight.( dont ask me why) so Im fitting everything together & I installed them all with the 3" rise & I wish they could stay like that because it looks sweet. but we both know they cant. my q is what effect do you think it will have with the fronts having a longer stack? In your thread it sounded like you had tried a couple of options. I just want to make sure Im doing good things. How long have you had them on yours or are you running Morley's air box now?
I made it so the rears bumped the cover and the fronts matched those. If the fronts were longer then you have more velocity up front than rears. I would think you'd have trouble sync'ing the carbs that way.
I run Morley's setup.
I run Morley's setup.
mymax04
Well-Known Member
thats alot of cuting, filing & wire brushing using exhaust pipe so back at it I go
