Today I changed the plugs and was going to do a sync with my carb tune and I left the number 2 plug wire off by mistake. To make a long story short now my screws are all out of wack and cant get my idle down below probably 2000 rpms because the idle screw wont do anything. Every time I screw or unscrew a screw the rpms go up except for the idle adjustment it wont do anything. The carbtune readings are all the way up except for no 2 which the freeking plug wire is on now. Is there anyway to fix this ?
need some help.. Tried to sync carbs and messed up
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You can do your sync like I do. At 3000 RPM. Adjust the engine with a fan running on the radiator to help keep it cool and adjust the screws until they start to make even readings. If your carbs are in good shape idle will fall within line when you slow the engine down. Actually it may slow itself down as the adjustments are made if you didn't take the idle screw way up. i do mine at 3000 RPM because that's where they are running most of the time while riding. It's worked out for me for a long time. Tweak the idle screw as needed to keep the idle down....
scuff
Well-Known Member
The only way I know of would be to take your carbs off and bench sync them, but try PM'ing Dannymax or maybe someone else will chime in.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Make sure all the vacuum port covers are on,as well as the line to the MAP sensor. Set your idle screw until the front left carb throttle plate is just about closed. Then adjust the rear left until the throttle plate matches the front left. Get the two on the other side synced as close as possible to each other,by eye, then sync them to the left rear carb. It is easier to do this with the carbs removed, but I think it's possible with them on. All three likage springs need to be in the proper place. Then hook your gauges up and sync at off idle, like Dave mentioned. When done, you should be able to achieve idle, if there are no vacuum leaks.
I think I understand that . I'll try to attempt that tomorrow. Thank you for taking the time to share that. And thanks to you other guys as well.
If anyone know of any pics helping the process feel free to send them this way. I plan on taking the carbs off flipping them over and seeing if I can correct this mess. So far Ive changes needles/jets/double D hopefully I can do this. Just not sure about getting the choke back right . Maybe it will make sense when I get it off
davesax36
Well-Known Member
Bench sync on the bike by pulling the slides and using a piece of 20ga wire as your feeler gauge. I did that to get both of mine close enough to idle right then tweaked with the carbtune.
Chopcor
Well-Known Member
Just to clarify, when you are talking about the idle"screw" you are referring to the thumbwheel underneath the carbs, correct? More than one owner has mistaken the synch screw on the left for the idle adjustment....
Ok Problem solved. I did just what sdt354 said . It didnt make much sense until I removed the carbs and flipped them over to do a bench sync like Scuff said. I couldnt have done it with the carb still on, Not that experienced. I couldnt find any 20 ga. wire so I used a thin piece of steel similar to a feeler gauge but more narrow. I got the gap on carb throttle plates all pretty close and then started adjusting the carb idle screw back to where it needed to be. I then put everything back together and plugged my carb tune up to sync. I was nervous about cranking up thinking it might rev up pretty high and it actually did rev up but not dangerous high. Actually when I cranked it I had my hand on the kill switch and I switched it on and off until could get the idle screw turned down. Then I did the sync and everything is back to normal now. I want to thank you guys for answering this post and through pm Dannymax. You guys are the best !! Thanks a lot !
Yes I got that part right. thanks
scuff
Well-Known Member
cool glad to hear you got it
Dragmaxster
Well-Known Member
Nice job, you old school bastard-:clapping:
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Glad that its fixed now.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Tks, nothing like a happy ending.
Glad it's resolved. We can all use help, someone on here has had the same issue. Post-up, and here come the inputs.
Back in the 'early days,' my first bike was a 305 Scrambler I bought off a college dorm mate, he'd bought it new, and was not riding it. Not many miles, it needed some work, so I got it pretty-cheap. It came w/a new paint job on the tins, done by a friend who owned an auto body shop, and it came out absolutely beautiful. It cost me a case of beer, and he used some leftover paint, which turned out to be an orange/red.
I learned a lot about offroad riding on that bike, and I used it to commute to work in MI which is where I was @ the time. I also learned a lot about mechanics, and putting my Montgomery Wards 3/8" metric socket tool set my Dad gave me as a teenager to good use. I still have it, and still use it, though the ratchet broke and was replaced, and a couple of sockets had the same fate. Anyways, one of my friends taught me about using a sewing needle or the tip of a toothpick underneath the throttle slide and then adjusting the throttle cables so they moved together, and starting from the same opening. "Just see that they both move at the same time when you begin to open the throttle," he told me. It's worked for the last 40+ years on a variety of bikes for a static adjustment. Whatever you have that's a thin gauge will suffice.
Back in the 'early days,' my first bike was a 305 Scrambler I bought off a college dorm mate, he'd bought it new, and was not riding it. Not many miles, it needed some work, so I got it pretty-cheap. It came w/a new paint job on the tins, done by a friend who owned an auto body shop, and it came out absolutely beautiful. It cost me a case of beer, and he used some leftover paint, which turned out to be an orange/red.
I learned a lot about offroad riding on that bike, and I used it to commute to work in MI which is where I was @ the time. I also learned a lot about mechanics, and putting my Montgomery Wards 3/8" metric socket tool set my Dad gave me as a teenager to good use. I still have it, and still use it, though the ratchet broke and was replaced, and a couple of sockets had the same fate. Anyways, one of my friends taught me about using a sewing needle or the tip of a toothpick underneath the throttle slide and then adjusting the throttle cables so they moved together, and starting from the same opening. "Just see that they both move at the same time when you begin to open the throttle," he told me. It's worked for the last 40+ years on a variety of bikes for a static adjustment. Whatever you have that's a thin gauge will suffice.
