OK, I always love to get in the middle of stuff like this (not really). However, having met Eric H. personally (and almost getting into a fist fight with him - which is another story) I would say that most of his comments do have merit. Though he and Don "old man" Smith tend to take their comments to the extreme and tell you that their way is the best or only way to do something.
When I speak up, it is from my experiences - good and bad - and sometimes it is easier for a person to learn the hard way. However, I do try and tell them what can be done whether it is the best way or not and try to justify why I say that.
So - I have personally removed the ugly assed superbraces from all of my personal bikes. It's not that they don't work as I'm sure they do. I just think they are about the ugliest things I have ever seen.
If you want a fork brace, I like the looks of the one MEK (I think it is) makes which looks very similar to stock though thicker and more accuarately made. I have one on my ex wifes Vmax and one on another friends bike. ON my own bike I simply have a stock brace (haven't run into another one of the overseas ones yet).
The one that was discussed isn't all that bad but generally speaking isn't made to be the structurally strongest since it has the hump in it. This is where you are going to have some flex. For example, take a piece of flat stock and try to flex it around. Even try to bend it. Now, take that same piece and put a bend in it first. Now (depending on your strength and the type and thickness of the material), try bending it again. It will bend much more easily this time.
There are only a handfull of people who can even ride the vmax to anywhere near it's potential and most are not in here (including me). However, I do ride it pretty darn close and have not found any huge weaknesses that prevent me from keeping up with 99% of anyone (including the sportbike guys) even in it's stock form.
I do like the solid mounts and have used them for a very long time. I have not found it to be an issue as far as bolts loosening up or even increases vibration issues. I am not sure how the frame flexes with them in place though anything is possible. Another area that is ofter overlooked that can be improved is the removable frame section. You can dowel pin the frame section on and then simply use a smaller bolt to keep the frame section in. This removes some potential slop in that assembly. I don't personally every worry about it but someone who wants to achieve the maximun resluts will do that modification.
The frame braces I am sure work as well but without doing some scientific testing (expensive but possible) there is no real way of saying it is better then the solid mounts. The frame braces do reach above the mounts and triangulate the frame in areas the soilid mounts can't and vice versa. In fact, the best thing would be to use both of them.
Now, one thing to keep in mind is that some chassis flex is desired to maintain long life of the structure. You can make it super rigid if you want but the chances of introducing cracks increase since the "shock absorption" of the flex was removed. This is one of the big things they found early on in airframes. Too rigid is unforgiving and leads to cracking. With different materials you can go more rigid but of course the material and design have a lot to do with it.
Most people here would be better off taking a course that increases their skills which would get them closer to using up the bikes full potential.
Sean Morley
hyeah00:
