Numerous problems encountered today

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Alright, UPDATE #3:

Got the washer fix on the axle, now no binding!

Got the syringe for reverse bleeding (so much better!), and now the clutch is working!

But its not all a happy story...still having rear brake problems:

rebuilt and cleaned the caliper, reassembled, but only one piston is firing, which would explain the drastically uneven wear of my old pads. I'd really rather not buy a new caliper, but I think I might have to. I think my last option would be replacing the seals and maybe the piston. (I'm gonna have to take it apart again to confirm that its the side with the nicks and scuffed piston first)

Also, the one piston that is firing doesn't seem to want to retract in on its own or with force. The only way I was able to was by releasing the valve. I'm assuming this isn't right, and hopefully related to the problem of only one piston firing, but hopefully someone can help set the record straight.
 
Sounds like something in the passageway internally for the caliper, or the piston is cocking in the bore, or something. There are lots of people on here who should be able to fix you up w/a good used caliper.

I'm gonna suggest something I have done in the past to free a stuck caliper: if you can't get it to move freely by using compressed air, just use a hydraulic grease gun w/the caliper hydraulic hose female fitting in the body blocked-off w/a bolt wrapped w/teflon tape, don't bottom it out because of the taper in the hole. Pump the grease in w/a block of wood or a wrench in-place of the rotor, and you will get the stuck one to move.

The square o-rings for the pistons rarely go bad, unless they 'cooked' from the caliper overheating due to a seized non-releasing piston.
 
Ya, I have no problem getting the piston out with compressed air, and I can push/pull fluid out through the bleede to the m/c no problem too. Also all the rings look fine. It's only when I engage the brake does the one piston not move.
 
When you had it apart, were you able to move the piston in & out w/your fingers, w/no fluid to it? You should be able to.

Ya, I have no problem getting the piston out with compressed air, and I can push/pull fluid out through the bleede to the m/c no problem too. Also all the rings look fine. It's only when I engage the brake does the one piston not move.
 
When you had it apart, were you able to move the piston in & out w/your fingers, w/no fluid to it? You should be able to.

Without the seals in, yes, but once the seals were in I needed a bit of pressure to get the piston in and they weren't coming out unless I used compressed air.
 
Be certain and for sure that the piston cups' grooves are 100% cleaned out before installing new rubber seals. Old gunk/goo and/or corrosion will tend to build up in that groove causing the rubbers to bind too tightly in the bore.

And of course, be sure the piston cups' outer diameter is cleaned as well as the caliper bore itself.

Also kind of easy to jam the cup back into the caliper causing a nick in a new rubber which will want to bind. I reassemble using some brake fluid on both the bore and rubber seal surfaces.
 
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