O-Ring Inside the pan!!!

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max03

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Well i just took my stock exhaust off waiting for my new system to arrive, and figured why i have it off would be the time to pull the pan and check my o-ring. I was wondering if anyone thinks this is a good idea or to leave well enough alone? Whats the best fix for this issue kawi oval ring? shimming the stopper under the tube? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 
Easiest way to check is start it up when cold and look at the oil sight glass. The level should drop quickly. If not, then the o-ring could be the problem. The best way to prevent the o-ring from popping is warming up the bike before really getting on it. I keep it to 4K or lower for the first several miles or until temperature needle is in normal operating range.
 
How many of you have pulled the pan on your vmax's? I heard the kawi ring is thte way to go but its really tough to get in and risk the chance of damaging it, which could become more of a problem then originally had! Changing or shiming the stop underneath the tube seems like a good idea, but do you reuse the orange oring? I heard brackets just don't hold the oring in place!!
 
I like Tom's (COO) kit. Drop the pan, clean the old gasket off, pull off the old bumper stop, add a dob of sylicone to hold the new one in place and button it back up.

This assuming the O ring id in place when you take it apart.

I have my doubts about shims....seems like just something else to come loose and float around in the oil pan. JMO of course.
 
I just did this a week or so ago. I installed a coo kit. The hardest part of the whole job was cleaning off the old gasket. Mine stuck all to the motor, not the oil pan. I would recommend finding some way to elevate the bike so you can get under there and clean up the gasket. It is a real PIA to remove the gasket from the pan if the bike is just on the centerstand or side stand. Other than that, no problem. I stayed away from using any silicone or rtv to hold the bumper in place. I just coated the bumper with oil and pressed it into place and it seemed to stick there fairly well...I was worried the sealant may migrate somehow and end up in the oil pump screen or blocking a passage. I would think petroleum jelly would be better to use than RTV? :ummm: At least it would dissolve if it got in the oil. Were only talking a tiny dab anyways.
 
This kit seems to be the one you guys are using with good results! So you reuse the orange oring, Replace the stop and button it back together? Sounds like the way to go!! If the oring is pushed out on mine is it still ok to reuse it, put it back in where it should be as long as there is no damage to it? This kit also come with the gasket?
 
I pulled mine with less than 300 miles on it. I put the COO kit on it. It's awful pricey IMO but it does what it's intended to do. It replaces the rubber for a piece of nylon. I know Sean Morley swears by his Kawi fix too.

Chris
 
I'm sure Tom's kit is good but we overdrive the oil pump for additional pressure and volume. I think tom's kit is made just to ensure better retention of the o-ring (but I could be wrong).

Sean
 
I replaced the assembly with the later Yamaha part. It addresses the problem. Do a search and you will find pics I posted showing the difference between the original setup and the newer one.
 
I believe an 03 would have the newer version. Who can report a popped o-ring on a 00' or newer?
 
I believe an 03 would have the newer version. Who can report a popped o-ring on a 00' or newer?

Somebody had a newer model that had an o-ring failure but I can't remember who it was. :confused2:

I do remember he was drag racing the bike and revved it to around 10K...this prolly was responsible for the failure.
 
mines revv'd to 10k - 10.5k a couple times by accident, hopefully i'm alright...

if i remember correctly it was either jeff, vmaxinID or mc-man... does that sound right?
 
Easiest way to check is start it up when cold and look at the oil sight glass. The level should drop quickly. If not, then the o-ring could be the problem. The best way to prevent the o-ring from popping is warming up the bike before really getting on it. I keep it to 4K or lower for the first several miles or until temperature needle is in normal operating range.

so once it was on it took about 3-4 seconds and the sight glass was completely empty, then oil splashed against it, and then it basically stayed empty.. sound about right?
 
so once it was on it took about 3-4 seconds and the sight glass was completely empty, then oil splashed against it, and then it basically stayed empty.. sound about right?

You can remove the low oil sensor and use a bore scope to look at the o ring and see if it has bulged. But if it takes 3 - 4 seconds to empty the site glass you're fine.
 
Hi Guys! I just pulled the oil pan on my 03 with 7300 miles on it and the o-ring was in place! I was surprised, I expected it to be bulged out. The question is would you put a new gasket on it and put back together, or install the coo kit while its apart?
 
Hi Guys! I just pulled the oil pan on my 03 with 7300 miles on it and the o-ring was in place! I was surprised, I expected it to be bulged out. The question is would you put a new gasket on it and put back together, or install the coo kit while its apart?

You already have all the 'heavy lifting' done 03, if I was in the same position I'd do the COO kit just for the add'l peace of mind. The COO kit is designed to put just a little bit of pressure on the oil pipe, making it very difficult (I would think) for the pipe to be pushed down, allowing the o ring to bulge.
 
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