Remove the outer races.
I've posted about doing this and many other people too. Yamaha did
not make the outer bearing removal as-easy as it could be. The problem lies primarily in the removal of the lower outer race.
Thoughtful manufacturers grind a small depression at the shoulder where the outer bearing sits in the steering head, either top or bottom. They do two, 180 degrees-apart. This permits a long punch to reach-into the steering head and to contact the bearing outer race. You use the punch side-to-side in those depressions to contact the back of the outer bearing until removal.
In the case of the VMax, the outer bearing is spec'ed with a bearing size where the outer, lower bearing shell has enough 'meat' to allow you to drive-out the outer shell, without that depression. Again tap the outer bearing shell180 degrees apart, and the shell will come-out. That's for the bottom.
The top is harder: no relief to allow the outer bearing shell edge to be contacted and the tubing at the upper outer bearing shell does-
not permit contact with the edge of the outer bearing shell.
There are several ways to do this. Probably the easiest one is to weld a couple thick beads 180 degrees apart on the bearing surface, and frequently the heat generated will cause the bearing shell to expand. You then use the weld beads as purchase-points to use your punch once-again. Do it while the weld beads are hot, and the shell should easily release.
The other method is to use some-sort of a rotary tool and a small abrasive disc to cut a slot into the cross-section (slot cut positioned vertically) until you can use a cold chisel to crack-apart the race, and then remove it. This is what you do on the triple tree outer bearing race in the lower bearing, next-to the bottom of the triple tree. There's no-need to press-out the steering stem tube and then remove the race in a press, but that's an option. Then you have to press the steering stem tube back-in.
That's it. You can visit your local bearing supply house, or buy the OEM replacements, or go with a kit from someone like All-Balls. I've used the All-Balls kits, and never had a problem. Of course, ensure that the roller bearings are well-greased with a proper grease.
If you have a 'notchy' feeling while going stop-to-stop with the steering head, you probably are the owner of a bike with mis-adjusted bearings, and/or 'brinelling' from too-many hard landings after many wheelies. This results in small depressions in the bearing races, causing the notches.
If you're planning on keeping the bike, you should consider grinding in the areas of the upper bearing's outer race, a couple of those reliefs/depressions to enable an easier time of removal, should you need to do it. 180 degrees apart, and don't take-out too-much. Use either an abrasive stone or a carbide cutter.
For driving in the outer bearing races, using the old bearing races is a time-honored way of doing it, or finding a socket and an extension which is nearly the dia. of the bearing shell, and using that. If you're a well-equipped fellow, then you may have a bearing driver set. They are available from a number of suppliers, here's one place I've bought many tools from, they are a good source.
https://www.pitposse.com/tools.html
https://www.pitposse.com/pit-posse-universal-steering-head-race-cup-installer.html
Unfortunately, some of these items are sold-out, contact them to see when they expect to be offering them in-stock.
