starter check

[CustomMax]

i was jumping my bike and it wouldnt fire so as i kept cranking it stopped cranking and now the starter soleinoid relay is just clicking when i hit the start button. did i burn up the starter? or do you think its just that relay? and is there a way to jump the starter because i can only see one wire running to it. i have Sean sending parts for the no start problem but i have to get it back to cranking again so i can diagnose the original problem of it not firing. :th_biggun:ullhair:

 

[maleko89]

Yeah, use screwdriver and bridge terminals on starter relay. Should be black wire goes to the starter and the red wire that goes to batter.

 

[CustomMax]

Thats the soleinoid between the rear coils right? when i do that nothing happens, isnt there terminals like a car starter that i can jump at the starter itself. i just do mechanical work electric is my weakest point. i feel like an idiot, unless i dont understand where the relay is but i thought thats the part thats just clicking now when i hit the start button.

 

[[email protected]]

Usually if the solenoid is clicking, it is fine. When it doesn't click is when it has a problem. Not sure what your using to jump the bike with but is it possible the battery in the bike is dead, and the source that you are jumping the bike with is dead too? If you are using one of those booster things, its very possible.

If that is the case, try to jump it off a vehicle and see what happens.

 

[maleko89]

If nothing happens then either your main fuse is blown or batter is dead. What's the charge of the batter right now if you read with Voltmeter?

 

[CustomMax]

I was jumping off a car and I think I was cranking it too long but the battery is reading 12.8 It was cranking and then even with full power it clicking. Could I have fried the starter? So that solenoid always clicks when starting but you just don't hear it because of the starter noise?

 

[CustomMax]

It's not the starter clicking it's the solenoid between the 2 rear coils ( this things got me frustrated as hell! I dont know if I specified where the clicking is coming from). The terminals are reading 12.8 but there didn't seem to be spark coming out of the coils. I guess that's why I wouldn't fire up but last Saturday it cranked and cranked backfired once then started sputtering then as I feathered the gas it started to run good but after shutting it off for a couple days it won't start at all again. Now it won't even crank over. Does anyone know what happens or would be the first thing to blow out from cranking continuously. Because that's probably what happened. I just don't know if it's the starter, soleinoid or a relay something must have gave out.

 

[CustomMax]

Not to beat a dead horse, but I checked my starter with a trouble light and when I ground it and touch the post on the starter when I push the start button the light lights does anyone know does that mean my starter's fried and why are people saying not to check it with a meter? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ed:bang head:

 

[one2dmax]

One thing I think I forgot to make sure about. Did the stator cover get taken off? The cover MUST have a gasket in place and not just silicon. Without it the starter gears bind up and lock up the engine from starting.

Sean

 

[MaxMidnight]

1) Check that the main fuse is OK

2) Disconnect the lead from the relay to the starter motor and tuck it out of the way.

3) With a fully charged battery > 12.6 V, ignition on, kill switch on Run and in neutral press the start switch. You should hear the relay click.

4) If it doesn't turn off the ignition.

5) For the next bit you will need a multi meter set to the Ohms scale (a test light won't do).

6) Disconnect the battery earth lead and then the feed terminal to the relay.
Disconnect the multi block to the relay.
Connect the multimeter across the battery and starter motor connections.
Using a fully charged battery connect the positive to the Red/ White wire and negative to the Blue/ white wire (on the relay).
You should hear the relay click and have a zero ohm reading on the multi meter.