Recent content by Matt-Max

@CaptainKyle anyof you guys in Cumbria? Also do you know anyone happy to take on a restoration? It was hard enough getting the engine out of my bandit 1200 solo and the lump in the max looks like a real sod!

@CaptainKyle Before my ownership certainly and I would imagine it's due. I'm planing a full restoration at some point with engine out etc to get the frame back to its glory days. It's a 1996 with 16k on the clock and many of the parts look original. I'm hoping for a patch up fix for now...

Evening Massed Brains! I've done a bit on the Vmax over the last few weeks and sorted a split diagprhagm, seized thermostat and done a full water flush. Got it back up and running and it would get a little lumpy, as luck would have it I was in the dark garage and could make out a spark leaping...

@Tony.H Thanks for the image - that would certainly explain that, I have however bought an OEM replacement which didn't have the same valve as yours. The one which came out didn't either, so I'm not sure when they changed or whatever, but it's all back in now and watertight.

Hello All. Ok - so diaphragm replaced. Thermostat done while I was on it to tackle the water issue. All rebuilt and back out for a quick zap on a warmed up engine. No furious pouring of water, but maybe one or two drops just clearing out - I should have been more critical of the cleaning...

@Fire-medic I ordered from Fowlers in Bristol UK. The parts were all Yamaha OEM and the number on the package matched those on the diagram and even those you can find elsewhere online. Bizarre isn't it.

Have a look at the two rubbers under light pressure as they would be in the housing. Original full rubber, nice and flush, flat to all surfaces.. And the supposed replacement under light load, curling up and becoming misshapen. Don't know about you, but thats a no for me!

Thanks @Fire-medic Here are some images to illustrate my frustrations. 1. Different thickness and weak spot on replacement 2. Different internal diameter, new one much tighter. 3. Old one fits flush to outer edge of thermostat. 4. New one is proud all round 5. Nice fit on old, seats no...

If I had a Haynes manual that would really help. Time to get buying! The seal here is a complete round, the one supplied has a nasty cut out notch leaving a really weak and insecure fit. With a massive bite out of the rubber it twists and threatens to lose its ability to actually be a seal. I...

Ignore above post - I went for optiona) on the assumption the last person in there wouldn't have been stupid enough not to have one. I'm really p*ssed off with the replacement seal 11H-12412 though. It creates a lousy fit and rolls up, the cut out makes it unstable and you can't slide the...

Hi all, I know it's a daft question, but I have changed my thermostat and ordered new seals and o ring to go with it, but I'm agonising over where to place the smaller o-ring. When I took it apart I thought there was no o-ring present (which would have explained the gentle weeping from the...

Excellent - many thanks. I've got to the bottom of the water issue as well now. I've taken the cap off whilst running to see if there was any sign of movement and circulation. Big no and steam rising (not just from clumsy spills) and it seems to be from the thermostat housing. I'm going to...

@Fire-medic thanks again for the excellent input and for putting me right on cylinder numbers! I'm hoping that I got the V-boost signal wrong too.. But, perhaps the lack of power until full kick in comes down in part to the inefficiency of this cylinder at the moment. I'm currently fighting...

QUESTION - Can I just put it all back together as it should be, or do I need to order a new assembly?