2001 Vmax done Woke Up!!!

[mgosset1]

I put in a earlier post about this 2001 Vmax bike thats been set up for 9 years....with major carb issues....Two days ago I put the Seafoam in a tank of super unleaded...Well today this damn bike just woke up from a deep sleep....lol.....still need to sync but it is idling at around 700 rpm's perfect...would not idle at all earlier....Not saying its perfect; but close.....Yamaha house wanted 400 to 600 for rebuild and told me the Seafoam would probably not work..lol....
Man I appreciate everyones advice and help..... and am still going to do the carb lube and spray down the idle jets this Sat......The Seafoam is doing its job so far.....

 

[choctaw]

After massive amounts of time spent on my Carbs and not to mention alot of help from fellow members on the forum and a litle seafoam mine just woke up aswell I've still got a little bit of a high idle ,,,think I just need to sync ,,,,,,congrats on getting it going.:clapping:

 

[mgosset1]

choctaw i got my idle screw turned nearly all the way down and mine is running consistantly at around 600 rpm's...the bike seems to like that low idle....how far down you got your idle screw at....?

 

[navydive]

What is seafoam?

 

[Rhoy Carter]

The idle needs to be at 1000 for the charging system to put out enough voltage

 

[KJShover]

What is seafoam?

Its an additive used for cleaning.
http://www.seafoamsales.com

 

[mgosset1]

Rhoy i disagree on your idle speed for charging.....i guess it would discharge eventually if it stayed idling at 600 all day; probably would not charge much.....but i don't sit around and idle..lol...my bike is running a sight more rpms on the road; thats were you get your charging by driving it....i don't understand your logic...i prefer a low idle...

 

[Rhoy Carter]

I do agree that it is your bike and that you can set the idle where you want to

 

[m-cman]

However the manual says set the idle at 1000 to 1100 rpm. But everyone can set their idle as they please. :biglaugh:

 

[mgosset1]

Seems like my bike has found that sweet spot when idling; my guage says 600 to 700 rpm's , but really guys, who knows.....that guage does not look that accurate....

 

[jfeagins]

My bike always seems to lope the best at an idle speed around 975-1050.

I googled some pics of sea foam for reference purposes only. You might not want to try some in your garage. :rofl_200::rofl_200:

 

[naughtyG]

Bwaaahahaha! Great sea foam, altho that one would prolly only lube your carb chains properly!

 

[mgosset1]

That is some fine lookin seafoam for sure....Seriously I use Seafoam for everything i have including weedeater, tractors and you name it....stuff is good...

 

[jfeagins]

A person just wants to watch the quantity of Seafoam being added, if you're putting it in the gas tank. Back when I first bought some, heck, I was looking for a cure to some plugged up idle jets, and poured away. No measuring. Ended up doing the shotgun anyway, and after the idles were clear, the bike still acted funny while idling. Sean Morley's first question to me that day (my first Eureka Springs) was to ask "how much Seafoam did you put in there", or something to that effect.

I went and topped off with 100% Arkansas Dino, ran it a few miles, and it was as if I'd just given it another complete tuneup. Needless to say, I go sparingly on Seafoam mixed with fuel. In fact, I haven't used it since for mixing in the tank. Only in the eyedropper while doing a spring peashooter before riding season.

(That Sean Morley really knows his stuff)

 

[choctaw]

My idle screw even when unscrewed to the point of no spring tension and scared it may fall out it still idles around 2000 rpms ,,,,,but I can roll forward on the throttle and put down around 1000 rpms so it may be a cable problem. Next I am going to take apart the cable connection on the left side were the four cables come together ,,,,after a good warm up that should eliminate a cable issue,,,,and I still have not synced. Lately I have been a very busy man ,when I am able I will updateunk:

 

[Fire-medic]

My idle screw even when unscrewed to the point of no spring tension and scared it may fall out it still idles around 2000 rpms ,,,,,but I can roll forward on the throttle and put down around 1000 rpms so it may be a cable problem. Next I am going to take apart the cable connection on the left side were the four cables come together ,,,,after a good warm up that should eliminate a cable issue,,,,and I still have not synced. Lately I have been a very busy man ,when I am able I will updateunk:

From 50 years of working on bicycles & motorcycles, cables don't last forever. One of the most-common problems is that the metal helix (the cable casing) corrodes and causes the cable to hang-up. Tiny corroded metal shards cause the cable to bind, you use some light petroleum compound to flush it out, and it seems to work, for awhile, until more metal shards slough-off the cable housing interior and cause a re-occurrence of the same problem. The only cure is-new cables! They 're relatively cheap, and they are available from a variety of sources. I usually bite the bullet and buy o.e.m. from a dealer such as ronayres.com or Sean and CaptainKyle can probably get them for you too. The other thing is to make sure you have them routed correctly, w/the proper amount of freeplay. Pinching the metal sheath in-which the cable slides is usually a "kiss-of-death" for a cable. You can try to reduce the friction from the pinched cable sheath/housing, but what you really need to do is to replace it. Do you want to lose control because your throttle stuck wide-open after a run to redline? I didn't think so!

As soon as you have problems, and the little cable power infuser lubricator doesn't seem to last as a fix, replace the cable(s). I am waiting on a set right now for my bike. You may avoid a serious accident or worse by this bit of preventative maintenance. It' been awhile since I looked in my Yamaha factory Service Manual, but I think they specify cable routing locations just for that very reason, so someone doesn't cause a pinched throttle cable to result in a WFO throttle which will not return to idle. On a 125 cc, not as big a deal, on a 115 b.h.p. machine, ouch!

 

[mgosset1]

Well its been a couple weeks and I have put about 100 hand in the throttle miles on it...Got the bike where it will idle around 1000 rpms steady without dying out....still has the initial hesitation when you first take off...I am thinking the carbs might have cleaned themselves up with the seafoam and shell super I have been running in it...is the very slight hesitation a symptom that the carbs need to be syncronized.....?.....also when I changed that little coolant drain valve tit to the bottom hole, it warms up quicker now..that made a big difference believe it or not....don't think the bike thermostat was working with the valve in the on position....my question now is ( what is the symptom of needing a syncro adjust )