Muffler repack

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Rusty McNeil

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For those of you with aftermarket muffler cans.

I dissassembled my rather loud UFO cans while cleaning and polishing everything to check on the packing since it seemed like the bike was a lot louder than it used to be.

There were a couple of scraps of steel wool looking material left inside, not enough to fill your hand, I never really thought about this stuff being consumed, but the mufflers probably have 30,000 miles on them.

Ordered some fiberglass matt packing from Two Brothers and repacked them and the difference is incredible, the exhaust sound completely different, still plenty loud but now has a nice low rumble instead of that mettalic scream it had..sounds like my buddies Marks exhaust that I wish I had since his sounded better..

It's really an easy job, all you need is a drill and a rivet tool.
 
Been there done that. The best material (longest lasting) is Silica Needled Mat. Used commonly for weld blankets or insulating blankets to allow the material to cool slowly. It'll last darn near forever.

Chris
 

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I wondered how long you should go before repacking. Sounds like 30,000 is too long.

I would love to hear a sound bite of the newly packed cans if you get a chance!! I have the same cans as you I think and they have about 16,000 on them.
 
Been there done that. The best material (longest lasting) is Silica Needled Mat. Used commonly for weld blankets or insulating blankets to allow the material to cool slowly. It'll last darn near forever.

Chris

But a little bit expensive. Even if this indestructable its still not making it a good value.

If my memory serves you use to/working in the welding industry so You dont have any problems with getting this, huh?
 
But a little bit expensive. Even if this indestructable its still not making it a good value.

If my memory serves you use to/working in the welding industry so You dont have any problems with getting this, huh?

Yeah, not an issue. I have samples in my drawer. Many companies use it now.

My Microns had/have it and my Walkers had it. not sure what the Marks have. I'm guessing fiberglass or the like.

Chris
 
Yeah, not an issue. I have samples in my drawer. Many companies use it now.

My Microns had/have it and my Walkers had it. not sure what the Marks have. I'm guessing fiberglass or the like.

Chris

The only way to grab some of this here in pl, is to rip of some welding clothes which is hell lot of fortune to spend LOL
Mosf cheapo welding clotches runs with fiberglass or so...

Ya gotta send me some of those :rofl_200:
 
I've used stainless and aluminum rivets but also have had good luck with small button head screws. M4, M5, M6 screws seemed to cover all my applications so far. Just makes it easier to remove in the future. Use blue loctite if you go this route
 
I've used stainless and aluminum rivets but also have had good luck with small button head screws. M4, M5, M6 screws seemed to cover all my applications so far. Just makes it easier to remove in the future. Use blue loctite if you go this route

walkers, for example, are riveted. wish they were screws.
 
I wondered how long you should go before repacking. Sounds like 30,000 is too long.

I would love to hear a sound bite of the newly packed cans if you get a chance!! I have the same cans as you I think and they have about 16,000 on them.



The two brothers kit says every 3000 miles, sounds excessive to me but the kit was for big bore dirt bikes. The material looks like what that picture Mark posted. Really thick, dense but really soft too

I've got a vid, but I guess it has to go on youtube to link it here???
 
Im thinking im gonna do this on my bike. Its as loud as all hell and im curious if i could deepen the tone at all. I was looking at some vance and hines packing on amazon for 8 bucks. What would you recomend using that i could pickup on the cheap?
 
you can get a tool, prob cheaper to borrow if you can find, and it installs nutcerts like a rivet, tool expands it to hold it there then use a screw. not sure there is room when you take it apart to do that, or use self taper or sheet metal screw. maybe might work
 
I just threaded the metal in the can. Used stainless button heads and loctite. Worked fine on the hindle on the max. Have done it to many dirtbike mufflers
 
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Harbor freight sells a nice nut sert "blind nut" rivet gun with rivets for cheap. I used it to put the disc back on the stock mufflers years ago when I drilled holes for more rumble.
 
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