1st Gen V-Max Picked 01 VMax , always wanted one.

[BigMoe818]

VMax Year

2001

Hello fellow riders,
I‘m Mo 44 years old and just picked a 2001 runs and rides VMax for what I think is a great deal. I passed on a yellow one 11 years ago for $2500 but oh well. This one is here now which would be my 6th bike to own.

I noticed when I rode the bike that the brakes are weak compared to any other bike I’ve owned in the past and I’m not sure; if that is normal or I should get that checked. The bike has 40k miles and I’m pretty tall for this bike, 6’7” so a tall setup would be great but afraid it will mess the ergonomics of the bike and affect the way it turn If I would to put a higher bar.

i want to make sure everything is working properly before I start going on long trips cuz it kinda stalled after I got off the free way but was able to fire back up and ran fine.
Does any one know a mechanic near 75243 that can tune and repair my bike.

any help is greatly appreciated

 

[Fire-medic]

The easiest thing to do to improve braking if it's suspect, is to change the fluid. If it has opacity to it when you remove the cap, it's well-past time.

#2 would be to replace the pads with HH rated pads, which will work well.

#3 would be to use SS hoses for the entire front brakes.

Be sure your rotors are at better than minimum thickness and aren't warped.

Not about your brakes, but try draining your float bowls to see what if any crud or water may be in your gas. Do one at a time, into a clear container, to see if you can spot any crud in there.



Screws at the arrows are float bowl drain screws, you don't need to remove them, just a couple-three turns out to open, the rubber hoses there thru the 'Caution' labelled bracket is where to hold your gas receptacle.

 

[BigMoe818]

thanks for the input, I took it for another ride today and it’s very fun bike, I also found some shop in DFW that some one recommended on FB and I contacted them and I should be able to drop off the bike there and have them take a look at it and give me a quote, if it’s reasonable, I’m going to do it.
clutch seems very hard and friction zone is way far, does this mean that my clutch is on its way out.

 

[Fire-medic]

clutch seems very hard and friction zone is way far, does this mean that my clutch is on its way out.

Sounds like you just met 'Double-D' (two diaphragm springs installed in the clutch) which some do to take care of slippage.

 

[BigMoe818]

Sounds like you just met 'Double-D' (two diaphragm springs installed in the clutch) which some do to take care of slippage.

Very good to know and I just saw some valve cover seepage. So valve cover job is in play along with, do I need change my clutch to get rid of DD.

 

[Fire-medic]

Try loosening and re-torquing the valve cover. Follow the sequence in the service manual.(SM) I do it in two rounds, one snug, then the second torqued to the SM value. Besides in the engine section, check the appendix for a chart of torque values.

If you find you have two diaphragm springs and you decide to remove one, to return to stock. there are members on here who would gladly buy that from you. But first, after removing one spring, do some riding with the one diaphragm spring, to ensure you're going to be OK like that. Since you're opening the clutch cover, I'd check the friction disc thicknesses, and how the 'steelies' look. You can hit them with some 80 grit sandpaper to remove any glaze (speaking of the 'steelies,' not the friction discs) but if you find the 'steelies' turned blue, they should be replaced, and you probably discovered why the former owner had the DD clutch modification. I'd suspect the bike was run hard possibly at the dragstrip.