Born2Ride
Well-Known Member
rode it at evening and when returning home at night, find out I have no front light, no rear light and no light on gauges....
What did you do to your Vmax today? Part 2
- Thread starter Buster Hymen
- Start date
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sdt354
Well-Known Member
Bad weather here for a while, so I pulled the forks apart for Gold valve emulator install. Of course it looks like crap in there even though I change the fluid yearly. Every thing got a bath and I made some new spacers to compensate for the valve height. I did bushings & seals 15k miles ago, and they still look serviceable. This kind of sinks my USD fork plans, now that I've put $$ in what's there. I am toying with an extra brace bellow the lower tree. Stiffen up the early gen. 1 forks a bit more. I will use the $$ saved by not going USD for a Venture hybrid project.
Steve-o
Steve-o
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Best riding temp. in the Northeast this time of year. The old Vmax likes the cool air too. Swimming? Ah, not to crowded at the beach on the Cape this week. Possible huge storm brewing for us too.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
Progressive if you mean in the forks Eric. On the valve I'm going with the yellow to start. I'm thinking of running a lb. of air in the fork just to keep positive pressure in the tubes. Maybe keep the oil clean longer. Moisture is the enemy.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I wonder what's better....the ricors. ....or the gold valve?
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DMAN999
Well-Known Member
Absolutely my Vmax runs like a Scalded Ape in the Spring and Fall in 40-60 F temps.
I don't think there's much difference. I have RICORS and like them. A wave washer stack is just that, tuned correctly is more important than brand, my belief.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Dorney
Well-Known Member
davesax36
Well-Known Member
Also getting some springs that match your weight helps.
Born2Ride
Well-Known Member
the start button seems to work fine. which detail should I be checking to confirm it?
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Just make certain that it is fully out. If it is stuck in just a bit.....the headlight and instrument lights won't work.
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silverado6x6
Well-Known Member
Sold my 85 today, cannot reasonably transport it from Alaska to Australia, at the very least the buyer swears he won't chop or cafe mod the bike, my last bike sold was a beautiful 95 Virago 750, buyer trashes bike into a rat style cafe racer.
I will look for another in Oz, i keep having a gut feeling i won't be returning to America soon, something or someone desires my participation there. So my big running bikes are all packed into a 40' reefer trailer i bought this year for storage, being insulated means a better environment for the bikes, sometime later i will figure out what to do with the rest of them.
I will look for another in Oz, i keep having a gut feeling i won't be returning to America soon, something or someone desires my participation there. So my big running bikes are all packed into a 40' reefer trailer i bought this year for storage, being insulated means a better environment for the bikes, sometime later i will figure out what to do with the rest of them.
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
Best of luck in The land Down Under, Silver. Hope you find that pot of gold.
Cheers, Mate!
unk:
sdt354
Well-Known Member
With the mounts. Lets see what this mod you did looks like
The mounts aren't very visible installed. Or I'd gladly take a pic.
sdt354
Well-Known Member
That's a nice quick way to bleed a system FM, Thanks for sharing. When I go Dot 5 in the front and clutch I'll do it this way. I have now gone a full season with dot 5 in the back brakes, no issues. I did an alcohol flush first then bled out the alcohol with Dot 5.
Steve
The reason I did it off the bike was because I had the bikes in storage but needed to have operable brakes to safely move them to the mechanic's. I couldn't do the rebuild at the storage facility. So I stripped the system off, and about the only thing I had to do to remove the front system complete was to remove the headlight so I could pass through between the downtube and the steering head the front master cyl/lever after removing it from the handlebar. I left it attached to the 'Yamaha' bottom mounting plate (plate removed for access to the brake hose splitter), and removed the headlight bezel to remove the 10 mm bolt inside the headlight bucket holding it to the fixture the bolt threads into. I may have removed the front turn signal mounting bracket too. The bracket, the bottom headlight mounting plate which says, 'Yamaha,' and the the brake hose splitter all use the same size allen head hex fastener.
Born2Ride
Well-Known Member
QUOTinstrumentk;415434]Just make certain that it is fully out. If it is stuck in just a bit.....the headlight and instrument lights won't work.
Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
just tried it. moved the button every ways and directions , started also the bike. nothing changes.
the instrument lights like oil , turn and neutral are working except gauges
Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
just tried it. moved the button every ways and directions , started also the bike. nothing changes.
the instrument lights like oil , turn and neutral are working except gauges
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
just tried it. moved the button every ways and directions , started also the bike. nothing changes.
the instrument lights like oil , turn and neutral are working except gauges[/QUOTE]
The wiring is different on the European models, according to the diagrams available on the "Morley's Muscle" banner website. Check it out, under "technical"-"wiring diagrams"-"1990-2003 Europe models"
Do you have a separate Light Switch, as per the diagram? If so, there seems to be one position common to the lamps not working on your bike. Perhaps a good cleaning of the switch will restore power to them.
Cheers!
