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I have one, but oversees :-)....

Not sure if I understand this correctly, does this mean that no matter which bearing is spun (on the rod or on the case), the cases are junk?

Same thing all over EU An EU equivalent of boats.net would be this one here https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-v-max1200-2001-3lrd-england-113lr-300ea_model39817/partslist/0002.html#results

Yes, I'm in Croatia It's like 3x USA...3x more expensive and 3x times waiting time A good recent example were the valve cover gaskets for a friend of mine...the two of them costs 100$ ....waiting time was 3 weeks.

I know...I know..buy new ones...they are cheap and you don't take any risk's... But googling this topic returns a lot of people that are actually reusing them without any problems on cars. They just use some copper spray on both sides of the gasket!? Of course that both of the...

So, what kind of HP can he expect with such an engine? This would basically be a stock vmax engine with bigger bore and slightly different gears...

Seems that there was a combination of things that made it hard to trace... I changed the starter motor, gears and the thick ground wire from the starter motor...it revs like new now Thanks for your suggestions :-)

The battery is brand new....

Additional info, the bike can be push started.... it fires right up within few meters and runs normally after that.

Hi Guys, I have a problem with one my friend's bike. He came to me complaining that his starter clutch is bad, I thought no problem...had few of them lying in my garage. After trying few combinations of starter clutches (original/heavy duty) I always get the same result, the motor...

Hello all, i recently upgraded my starter clutch with the XVZ/Royal star bearing + gear New 6. holes needs to be drilled in the rotor. I forgot to make pictures of the finished product, but you will get the idea :-)

Hello all, i'm planning to strech+widen my swingarm, so the question is how much can it go wider in order not to use any additional u-joints. My goal is 15mm (0.6 inch) on both sides. 4-1 exhaust will be used Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks.

If you have a aftermarket rectifier than i would say that this is the old wiring from the original rectifier

This should be a Harley meeting, but all bikes are welcome.....it's a 'must see' if you are anywhere close to that region and like big events http://www.hogeuropegallery.com/ebw-2011/

The geman ebay is full of it....ebay.de I also have one on hand with ~50kkm

I had the bike from a friend with such a system on hand few days ago... The quality/finish is superior, fitment also, sounds great...deep toned...not metallic As mentioned before, it was a slip on system...costs around 500? ~ 650$ I would say it is a good buy for Europe, but if you live in...

had stage 1 needles before...tried all clip positions with the 2,5 turn AF setup and still popping later i took the stock needles and shimmed it by 0.80 mm (0.0314 inches) and started the turn-out sessions :-) which ended at 6. turns out

i pulled the carbs before...cleaned everything...setted the float levels....synched the carbs....did all the 'normal' stuff before writing here...with limited success the exhaust is tight...but the rubber on the mainfolds have some cracks, i suppose that that can be the reason for the popping...

ok, now the popping is gone but the screws are in the 6-7 out range.... one funny thing, i noticed during the 'turning-out' sessions that the screwdriver is going deeper on some screws having the same 'turn-out' number!!! so i took a measuring device and setted all the screws in the same...

but if i open the boost manually by 1/3 the popping is gone.... it's popping if i cruise in this rpm range and on deceleration.....wot works fine The setup: Main DJ 160 PAJ2 DJ 150 Stock springs Stock needles shimmed 0.80 mm K&N + some drilled holes on the Y piece DAM slip on's Mixture screws...