Hi there, huge problem here. Cannot take the bolt off, trying to change oil. It's stripped, used spray on stuff to loosen the bolt. Nothing is working at all. Give me some ideas, cannot lift bike. What are my choices here? Pleaseeee I want to ride now:ummm:
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naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Which bolt are you talking about? The drain bolt? The oil filter bolt? The filler cap bolt?
And when you say stripped, are you talking about the thread, or about the head of the bolt?
And when you say stripped, are you talking about the thread, or about the head of the bolt?
Step 1 buy a new drain plug
Step 2 go and buy a set of Irwin bolt extractors http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.jhtml?catId=IrwinCat100511
They are AWESOME!!!!!!
unk:
Step 2 go and buy a set of Irwin bolt extractors http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/browse.jhtml?catId=IrwinCat100511
They are AWESOME!!!!!!
unk:
KJShover
Proud Vmax lover
I have a vise-grip set, they've saved my ass god knows how many times from stripped bolts and screws. Most recently when I was taking the rear rotor off. the allen stripped right out, grabbed the needlenosed vise-grips and 30 sec later, voila! done.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
Coupla things: if you get the bolt that fits the pumpkin (rear differential), it comes with the magnet.
Also, if vise grips won't work, you can either use a metal saw to make a groove in the bolt then use a large flat blade screwdriver; or you can use a small punch and hammer, and hit the top side of the bolt to loosen it.
Also, if vise grips won't work, you can either use a metal saw to make a groove in the bolt then use a large flat blade screwdriver; or you can use a small punch and hammer, and hit the top side of the bolt to loosen it.
I was thinking about making a groove in the bolt ,but didn't want to destroy it. Well, now I have to. I do have bolt in my rear differential that's with a magnet, could you explain why that question? Man it's too tight to play with bottom of this bike.
naughtyG
Well-Known Member
All I'm saying is that if you replace your drain bolt with the same as is in the pumpkin, you will then have the added advantage of the magnet, which collects metal debris in your oil and is a good indicator of your engine's condition.
You should be able to get that bolt from your local Yamaha stealers or order it from BikeBandit or PinWall cycles.
You should be able to get that bolt from your local Yamaha stealers or order it from BikeBandit or PinWall cycles.
Nicki66
Well-Known Member
I picked mine up from here: http://www.magneticdrainplug.com/Motorcycle_Drain_Plugs/MP02.html
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Be sure to buy a couple crush washers too....sounds like someone way overtightened your drain bolt and undoubtedly flattened the washer.
When replacing the drain bolt torque to 31 ft. lbs.
When replacing the drain bolt torque to 31 ft. lbs.
richwrench
Well-Known Member
Are you using a 12 point or a 6 point socket ? A 6 might still grab it if a 12 is stripped. Vise grips are ok, but if they start slipping , the job can really turn into a pain. Get a 6 point & hammer it on if you half to - just my 2 cents...
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
From the right side sitting on the bike, or laying under it changing the oil??:biglaugh:
yukonerdave
Well-Known Member
Let us know how it turned out - you shouldn't need to lift the bike at all. The head of that bolt is large enough, and it shouldn't be torqued too tight, so you shouldn't have problems with some vise grips.
dannymax
Well-Known Member
Steelfish....regarding which way to loosen/tighten bolts, regular right hand threads...as you face the bolt or nut...loosen counterclockwise and tighten clockwise.
Left hand threads are, of course, the opposite.
So visualize yourself facing the bolt and apply the cw, ccw formula and you got it.
Left hand threads are, of course, the opposite.
So visualize yourself facing the bolt and apply the cw, ccw formula and you got it.
