Need a slip on end can piece

[maxcruiser]

Hey guys, I have had a Kerker 4-2-1 exhaust system for a long time and over the winter I bought a Scorpion can as I'm looking for a different sound for the bike.

Problem is the the Scorpion can is a 3 bolt on style from a 1200 Bandit and the Kerker requires a slip on style. I tried emailing Scorpion to see if I can buy a 2.5" slip on inlet cap, but no response from them.

So here is the question, does anybody have or know where I can get an inlet cap (polished stainless) 2.5" dia inlet? It's 5" X 3.5" (oval can)

For now, I had a 3 bolt to slip on adapter made to fit the can on (sounds very good on the Kerker system), but it extends the exhaust about 2" farther back and I find it a little long.

Any help would be appreciated!

Mike

 

[4gasem]

Hey guys, I have had a Kerker 4-2-1 exhaust system for a long time and over the winter I bought a Scorpion can as I'm looking for a different sound for the bike.

Problem is the the Scorpion can is a 3 bolt on style from a 1200 Bandit and the Kerker requires a slip on style. I tried emailing Scorpion to see if I can buy a 2.5" slip on inlet cap, but no response from them.

So here is the question, does anybody have or know where I can get an inlet cap (polished stainless) 2.5" dia inlet? It's 5" X 3.5" (oval can)

For now, I had a 3 bolt to slip on adapter made to fit the can on (sounds very good on the Kerker system), but it extends the exhaust about 2" farther back and I find it a little long.

Any help would be appreciated!

Mike

Cut the can down! A lot of people cut the cans down on sport bikes so they can go to the 12 O-Clock position without snagging it.

 

[maxcruiser]

Cut the can down! A lot of people cut the cans down on sport bikes so they can go to the 12 O-Clock position without snagging it.

Chris, I thought of that but never did it before on one of these types of cans. Is it just a simple as cutting it on a bandsaw or does it have to be taken apart 1st than cut? By the way, it's a carbon can and it's 2.5" dia up 6" from the inlet than goes down to 2"dia to the outlet.

Still would want a 2.5" dia slip on inlet cap tho.

Mike

 

[one2dmax]

We've mounted up numerous bolt on type cans used from bikes just like that. The simplest way to do it for the Kerker would be to get yourself a new flange with the right bolt pattern (you might check but likely a small block chevy header flange will work). Then you can weld the flange to the current mid pipe that you have.

I have custom made midpipes and already have flanges welded up on them. There are two different sizes I have found and not sure which size you have. My mid pipes are not finished so you would either need chrome or jet hot done to match what you currently have. Plus the ones I have done may not let your muffler bolt on in the correct orientation but we could see.

It's not hard to get it welded up on your old pipe by an exhaust shop in your town anyway.

Sean Morley

 

[maxcruiser]

We've mounted up numerous bolt on type cans used from bikes just like that. The simplest way to do it for the Kerker would be to get yourself a new flange with the right bolt pattern (you might check but likely a small block chevy header flange will work). Then you can weld the flange to the current mid pipe that you have.

I have custom made midpipes and already have flanges welded up on them. There are two different sizes I have found and not sure which size you have. My mid pipes are not finished so you would either need chrome or jet hot done to match what you currently have. Plus the ones I have done may not let your muffler bolt on in the correct orientation but we could see.

It's not hard to get it welded up on your old pipe by an exhaust shop in your town anyway.

Sean Morley

Sean, that's pretty much what I did, a muffler guy fab'ed up a 3 bolt flange with a piece of 2.5' pipe welded on. It's installed and works great - just thought if I can get a slip on inlet cap, it would look better and save about 2" in length.

Next question, what is the best way to cut down a carbon can?

Mike

 

[one2dmax]

Gloves, long sleeve shirt, and a good fiber cut off wheel.

Take it apart first to see how it's built. Most have the outer sleeve, an inner core made of a perforated tube and flared ends welded to the core, and the outer layer of sound dampining material (fiberglass).

Cut the sleeve first and measure how much you removed (add for the wheel thickness). You can redrill your new bolt/rivet holes at anytime. Keep the approx same size/spacing, and distance from the end of the can. They drill very easily and you can either put tape on before you drill to help minimize the fraying or just drill it with a good sharp bit.

Most of the time the inner core is a perforated tube with ends welded on them. Pull back the fiberglass (or remove it) to get a a look at what you have. You will need to cut the same amount of flberglass off that you removed from the carbon sleeve. This is the part that will make you itchy if you don't protect your hands and arms.

With the inner core exposed you cam cut the welds away from one end of the tube - you may not get it completely removed by just cutting the weld. You may need to take a punch and drive the tube out from the end to break away the remaining weld. You should only need to remove one end - preferable the same end that you cut off the carbon sleeve. Clean up and straighten the end piece if needed. Cut off the same amount from the perforated tube that you removed from the carbon sleeve.

Slip the tube back into the end piece and measure/align the spacing for your new bolt pattern making sure the alignment and distance from center of the holes is the same as your sleeve. Preferably you will re-weld the inner sleeve back together. This is the only real support your can has normally. However, many times it will work fine without this step. The carbon sleeve will provide some tear-out resistance too.

Now you can re-assemble the can paying attention to the clocking of the inlet compared to the label and outlet position.

Sean

 

[maxcruiser]

Gloves, long sleeve shirt, and a good fiber cut off wheel.

Take it apart first to see how it's built. Most have the outer sleeve, an inner core made of a perforated tube and flared ends welded to the core, and the outer layer of sound dampining material (fiberglass).

Cut the sleeve first and measure how much you removed (add for the wheel thickness). You can redrill your new bolt/rivet holes at anytime. Keep the approx same size/spacing, and distance from the end of the can. They drill very easily and you can either put tape on before you drill to help minimize the fraying or just drill it with a good sharp bit.

Most of the time the inner core is a perforated tube with ends welded on them. Pull back the fiberglass (or remove it) to get a a look at what you have. You will need to cut the same amount of flberglass off that you removed from the carbon sleeve. This is the part that will make you itchy if you don't protect your hands and arms.

With the inner core exposed you cam cut the welds away from one end of the tube - you may not get it completely removed by just cutting the weld. You may need to take a punch and drive the tube out from the end to break away the remaining weld. You should only need to remove one end - preferable the same end that you cut off the carbon sleeve. Clean up and straighten the end piece if needed. Cut off the same amount from the perforated tube that you removed from the carbon sleeve.

Slip the tube back into the end piece and measure/align the spacing for your new bolt pattern making sure the alignment and distance from center of the holes is the same as your sleeve. Preferably you will re-weld the inner sleeve back together. This is the only real support your can has normally. However, many times it will work fine without this step. The carbon sleeve will provide some tear-out resistance too.

Now you can re-assemble the can paying attention to the clocking of the inlet compared to the label and outlet position.

Sean

Thanks Sean, that's exactly the info that I was looking for!! Would like to cut it down about 3" or so.

Again, thanks for your knowledge on this subject.

Mike