The IGNITECH TCI thread

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Ok, have to change that, thanks! Its downright dangerous be without that, and nobody uphere didn't know how to get that working..
Can you say that is this somewhat right now, I'm running COPs nad don't have TPS? Ignition settings are what came with the program, hope that they are what they should be.
Thanks!

EDIT: Oh, and COPs are without resistors, if that means something.
 

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Ok, have to change that, thanks! Its downright dangerous be without that, and nobody uphere didn't know how to get that working..
Can you say that is this somewhat right now, I'm running COPs nad don't have TPS? Ignition settings are what came with the program, hope that they are what they should be.
Thanks!

EDIT: Oh, and COPs are without resistors, if that means something.

What you have looks reasonable.

I have been setting Dwell setting to Auto when COP's are on bike. Short was also recommended.

Gary
 
Ok, thanks! I ask more stupid questions when I start to mate ignitech with vboost servo, it seems that theres only one made in Finland so far.
 
Ok, thanks! I ask more stupid questions when I start to mate ignitech with vboost servo, it seems that theres only one made in Finland so far.

The program on the CD "90-07 VMax - program with V-boost - Cops.ign" is setup for the V-Boost operated by the Ignitech TCI.

Does your TCI adapter cable have the round connector on it? If it does, all you need to do is unhook the stock v-boost cable from the servo motor(round connector) and connect to the ignitech TCI. Load program that has v-boost enabled and it will be working. When you turn key on, the V-boost will cycle the servo motor as before, this is to get servo synched to the closed & open positions.

Gary
 
I believe that it hasn't, just two rectangular if I remember right.. Is that kind of cable interchangeable? Do you have that kind of cables to sell, I will buy one if you can sell one? It would be truly a blessing to me not have to cut any cables as I'm not so good with soldering iron or electrical connectors.
 
The unit we send should have had the round plug already preinstalled?
 
My unit isn't from you guys, I bought it last summer from vmax club of Finland forum after my dyna broke. The knowledge of this unit just isn't so great here, or they who knows doesn't share it.. :confused2:
 
Gary will need to build you a new harness and get it shipped over there. Will make it a more plug/play.
 
When I install this new wireset and vboost connects to ignitech, can I remove old vboost control unit all together or does it stay on bike? I remember that it had two connectors going in it, and only one (round one?) goes to ignitech?
 
When I install this new wireset and vboost connects to ignitech, can I remove old vboost control unit all together or does it stay on bike? I remember that it had two connectors going in it, and only one (round one?) goes to ignitech?

Yes, stock V-Boost controller can be removed with Ignitech TCI.

Gary
 
Should that "sensor" be IAP or TPS on gen-1 vmax? Whats the difference?

I prefer TPS. The main difference I am aware of is the right side of advance graph on the Advance tab has adjustable settings, TPS settings are fixed at pre-determined settings.

The TCI only reacts to the varying voltage produced by the MAP sensor and adjusts timing accordingly on either setting.

Gary
 
HI Gary
I sent you an email about this subject. Did you get it?

I don't recall it Fred. I get quite a bit of emails & PM's between this site & Venture site and sometimes don't remember to respond to them. Between building new bike, TCI & wrench sales and riding, my free time is hectic.

Resend it and I will get back to you!!

Gary
 
More stupid questions about that new wire set, it had MAP-sensor that I haven't had before. Should I install that in cyl#2 vacuum port? cyl#1 already has a hose going to some sensor. Or should I take that sensor off, and install this new MAP-sensor in cyl#1? What does that original sensor do, is it for the boost and is it still needed with ignitech?
I installed MAP-sensor in cyl#2 and bike didn't run well at all, sputtered a lot on cruising speeds about 3,5k, pulled OK though. I thought that it was just running super rich because new, uncracked airbox but seems like that wasn't the case after all. Dumbass like me should do only one thing at a time and always do a test run after lol.
I took MAP-sensor off the bike and now it runs better again?
 
Just to make certain that every one is one the same page....here is a pic of the cylinder arrangement.

So front left is actually cylinder #2, but has the "master" carb on it that everything is sync'd to.
 

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