Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
The hose running from cylinder#2 is to the STOCK map sensor. With the ignitech set up, replace it with the map sensor that comes with the kit, and run the hose from the new sensor back to cylinder #2.
The IGNITECH TCI thread
- Thread starter wildweasel_pt
- Start date
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OK no wonder it wasn't running so well then, eh. Now the instructions makes sense too, I just assumed that front cyl is 1 and rear 2 and never really thought about it. I removed stock vboost controller from bike and one connector left hanging in left scoop, is that going to that stock map sensor and may that sensor be now removed from bike?
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
There is one connector left...I dont know if it goes to the stock map sensor or not. I removed the ECU (TCI) and stock map sensor at the same time.
I think it goes to stock sensor, same coloured wires, but that is a tight place (and tight screws) so I just left it there for now atleast.
Now the MAP-sensor should be like it supposed to be (altough it is fastened with only one screw..) I might take it for a quick midnight test drive soon
Thanks for helping me out Traumahawk!
Now the MAP-sensor should be like it supposed to be (altough it is fastened with only one screw..) I might take it for a quick midnight test drive soon
Thanks for helping me out Traumahawk!
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
That sensor is a MAP you attach that vacuum port to the new MAP
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
I ended up connecting the new map to cylinder 1 and 2 with a T connection so the intake pulsing is minimized and im also running DJ stg 7. Its been doing ok.
I went for a little ride, bike still feels a bit nervous at low speeds, I have to be very precise with throttle and few times bike got jerking all over when I reduced speed and then turned a little throttle to maintain some speed. It pulls like never before (well I drove few months basically w/o boost), start and idles great but at low speeds and low rpm's it just doesn't feel right. I have to check carb diaphragms even though I don't think they are shot because it pulls so f'n hard now.
EDIT: When we are at it, in ignitech programming tool is that set TPS 0% and set TPS 100% buttons, should I do something with those? Like bike idling press "set TPS 0%" and WOT "set TPS 100%"? Or are they good as is? I haven't touched them, just wondering why those are there and should they be set or not.
EDIT: When we are at it, in ignitech programming tool is that set TPS 0% and set TPS 100% buttons, should I do something with those? Like bike idling press "set TPS 0%" and WOT "set TPS 100%"? Or are they good as is? I haven't touched them, just wondering why those are there and should they be set or not.
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Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
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So I put MAP back on, and bike doesn't run so good with it. It sneezes a lot, almost like its getting air in from somewhere but boots are recently changed, carbs are seated correcly and has been cleaned recently too. I have UFO exhaust and 150 mains, it cant be lean either? When it "sneezes" it sounds like atleast one slide shuts and then opens again? It does this a lot when cold, but it pulls good when I get on with throttle? When I took MAP off the bike, it was a lot better to drive, no sneezing and jerking at cruise speeds. What in earth might be a problem, some setup in ignitech or what?
alorio1
Well-Known Member
I think the Maap controls the timing advance and the Vboost. The inline plastic piece is a air restrictor to keep the timing from jumping around with the engine pulses.
RempageR1
Well-Known Member
When using the percentages, the TCI unit verifies the limits by opening and closing untill the amps go up (basically forcing the motor against it`s limits). If that setting is used, I would suggest using 99% at wide open so the motor has less stess on it when opened full.
Also, you could set it to volts and just verify which voltages you really need. For me, 0.2V is closed without straining it, and 2.8V is wide open without stressing the motor.
My map looked like this:
Now, I use it as 2D, so the 0% values are used.
thor_eyerdhal
Well-Known Member
I am not sure Mr Max's vboost is controlled by the TCI..
It is, it wasn't before. I had wires without plug for vboost or MAP, then I bought wireset that had MAP-sensor and plug for vboost. I think vboost opens like it should, but that sneezing and jerking especially at 3rd gear about 3k rpm's its like rabbit now. Maybe it needs different restrictor to vacuum hose? One dude bought same wires at the same time, and he have issues with it too.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I didnt use a restrictor to the vacuum hose. The hose that I used came with the kit, straight from carb 2, to the Map sensor.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
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alorio1
Well-Known Member
I wonder what a stock ecm goes to full advance? I would guess full advance should be about 8 K, and that's just a guess..........Any one know?
Thanks, I'll try that! I had bike running once with PC attached (my shitty laptop crashes that way every time) and I think that bar was almost halfway at idle..! I'll let you know how it goes.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
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dingy
Well-Known Member
Procedure I use to with MAP sensor set TPS sensor settings. Similar procedure to set IAP stting also.
With PC hooked & and connected to TCI, start motor (warmed up already) choke off.
On the Miscellaneous tab. verify sensor setting is on TPS.
At bottom left of TCIP4 window, there is an RPM =_ and a TP=(%) bar graph. With the motor idling I set the TP graph so the black bar is just at the far right side of block. This is adjusted by changing TPS Voltage setting, the lower green block controls idle setting when using MAP sensor. then programming TCI and rechecking setting. This will take a number of adjustments to get bar to show far right. To set the WOT on left side of bar. I crack throttle wide open and watch screen to see if black bar disappears. The upper green block controls WOT setting when using MAP sensor. Adjust voltage to correct as needed.
If either setting is to the far left or far right of graph, the voltage settings need to be adjusted to bring bar back on graph so as to have a point of reference, then adjusted to back just off graph again.
Remember to reprogram after each adjustment.
Due to the sensitivity the TCIP4 software has, the TP setting will pulse, this is normal and happen on all motors.
Gary
