Discussion in 'Motor' started by Lars-Erik Andersson, Oct 2, 2019.
From manual procedure test thermo
You had an air pocket on the VMAX?? How did you clear that. I have been running like this for 3 years and getting ready to change the coolant again. I used engine ice last time but going to regular coolant this time. I didn't like the engine ice. Not very slippery, I don't think it lubricates the seals as well.
To summarize my VMax cooling system work just now;
Im working primarly to get all air out with starting the bike from cold ...warm it up til thermostat open then press with hand on all flexibles I can reach on cooling system,,, has given a lot of air bubbles coming up on the funnel ! Have done so last week every Day !
I have refilled somewhere round 0,1-0,15 Liter cooling water so I feel the cooling system at least should be as good as possible when Im finished (less air = better Cooling).
Still Im thinking of getting a measuring probe permanent somewhere to get actual values i degree C. That bloody scale on Meter "jumps in steps" what I could see is it between 80-85 degrees when "12 o clock" what 3/4 is You have to guess dont think its close to boiling but still feels worrying .
I feel that I did a mistake last Year when changing fluid and not buying a cheap vaccum fill system for coolant.That have given me the possiblity to have no air traps.
I have had contact here with several car bulders with high performance V8 ...they all recommend this tools to be sure no air.
My local Yamaha store say Yes or No ..... I believe they dont know Vmax so few sold here in this Country and dont want their guys on my bike
Im using a mixed 50/50 glykol/water from a known brand (dont remember the name but they are used on all cooled bikes here Honda BMW Ducati ...as You say the lubrication is important.
There maybe something in the display settings to see the actual temp of coolant. I am not near the bike or the manual.
Cant find anything in manual on changing display settings .....believe Yamaha as other manufactures prefer not exact values gives them more freedom for buying cheap transmitter(s).
The water transmitter has a "referens resistans" with cold an varm value in manual; Good so but unfortenately we dont know the japanese data man how he programmed the (ECU) and transmit those values on Meter
Easier in old days with a linear curve between cold and varm value. Just measure resistance and calculate....
I feel more and more that an Air-free radiatorsystem and checking that the thermostat opens on specified values then the std system is as good It could be.
Who will be the first to supply a high capacity radiator compared with OE ? That would be the best "tuning part" in my mind.... not funny solution with manual on and off for cooling fans....but perhaps the easiest way to take little control of bad design....
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