Battery Problem to Watch Out For (Possible Time Saver)

[Okie2ee]

My bike has been in storage all year and I periodically put a battery charger on the battery to keep it charged and start the bike every 2-3 months. Last time I attempted to start the bike, the headlight came on and when I hit the starter button everything went dead, nothing. Got around to troubleshooting several weeks later. Battery voltage was 12.8 V, and less than .2 VDC at the fuse block. So started the process to find the problem. Check all the fuses, checked battery voltage to the ignition switch connector and measured 12.8 V, with the ignition switch on the voltage dropped to .2 V on the brown wire to the fuse block. Took the switch apart looking for a high resistance connection and the switch looked excellent, but cleaned it just to be on the safe side. Still no change when reconnecting the ignition switch. Made up a jumper to jumper from red to brown directly and discovered that the voltage on the red and brown was .2 V. Finally tracked down the problem, battery has a high resistance internal fault of some type. Any kind of current flow immediately drops the full voltage of the battery internally. What appeared to be a good battery based on voltage across the terminals turned out to be a faulty battery due to an internal fault. Moral of the story, things are not always as they appear. When things start to look funny step back and check everything. Now I get to put everything back together that I had to take apart in order to the get to the handy little 3 terminal connector for the ignition switch which is too damn short to work on without removing the air box cover. I probably spent 4 hours on a faulty battery problem. Hope this saves someone else from needless disassembly of your motorcycle.

 

[MaxMidnight]

Thank you for that story which illustrates that it is cranking voltage that is important and the need to approach diagnosis is a logical sequence.

I would caution against running an engine unless you intend to ride or for occasional maintenance.
During the warm up period condensation will form together with other volatile nasties. When at operating temperature these will boil off and can't cause problems but can accumulate if this is not the case.
I know of one case where the condensate started leaking from the exhaust joints so would not be doing the inside of the pipes any good.

By all means turn the motor over if you feel the need to circulate oil but don't fire up unnecessarily.

 

[Okie2ee]

Thank you for that story which illustrates that it is cranking voltage that is important and the need to approach diagnosis is a logical sequence.

I would caution against running an engine unless you intend to ride or for occasional maintenance.
During the warm up period condensation will form together with other volatile nasties. When at operating temperature these will boil off and can't cause problems but can accumulate if this is not the case.
I know of one case where the condensate started leaking from the exhaust joints so would not be doing the inside of the pipes any good.

By all means turn the motor over if you feel the need to circulate oil but don't fire up unnecessarily.

Excellent point on periodically starting the bike.............I always allow it to run for 10-15 minutes but have never thought about condensation forming internally.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sometimes the simple solution is the correct one.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/chasing-my-tail-on-a-headlight-malfunction.31075/
Here's a good load tester, not expensive, name brand, at Northern Tool. Item# 81946 northerntool.com

Schumacher Battery Load Tester — 6/12 Volt, Model# BT-100​

• Works on 6 Volt and 12 Volt batteries up to 1000 CCA
• Performs a 50 Amp load test for 6V batteries; 100 Amp load test for 12V batteries
• Performs the following tests: Battery Load; Battery Condition; Starter Motor Draw; Complete Charging System Diagnosis
• Top-mounted rocker switch for easier operation
• Super-grip, heavy-duty color-coded battery clamps provide a solid connection
• Easy-to-read meter is accurate and shock resistant
• Baked enamel, steel case is ventilated to keep cool and built to last
• Rubber insulated carrying handle offers comfort and safety

 

[Patineto]

Two times per year Amazon sell this for $11.95, I have like 10, on every bike and cars, they never fail, not even on minnesotta Snow..

https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GENIUS1...TgqMCrFN8wZTMNjSoMV7c214XRgELXBhoCM0wQAvD_BwE

 

[brian hicks]

My bike has been in storage all year and I periodically put a battery charger on the battery to keep it charged and start the bike every 2-3 months. Last time I attempted to start the bike, the headlight came on and when I hit the starter button everything went dead, nothing. Got around to troubleshooting several weeks later. Battery voltage was 12.8 V, and less than .2 VDC at the fuse block. So started the process to find the problem. Check all the fuses, checked battery voltage to the ignition switch connector and measured 12.8 V, with the ignition switch on the voltage dropped to .2 V on the brown wire to the fuse block. Took the switch apart looking for a high resistance connection and the switch looked excellent, but cleaned it just to be on the safe side. Still no change when reconnecting the ignition switch. Made up a jumper to jumper from red to brown directly and discovered that the voltage on the red and brown was .2 V. Finally tracked down the problem, battery has a high resistance internal fault of some type. Any kind of current flow immediately drops the full voltage of the battery internally. What appeared to be a good battery based on voltage across the terminals turned out to be a faulty battery due to an internal fault. Moral of the story, things are not always as they appear. When things start to look funny step back and check everything. Now I get to put everything back together that I had to take apart in order to the get to the handy little 3 terminal connector for the ignition switch which is too damn short to work on without removing the air box cover. I probably spent 4 hours on a faulty battery problem. Hope this saves someone else from needless disassembly of your motorcycle.

When checking voltage always measure when the circuit is under load because any poor contacts will cause a volt drop but may check as OK if no current is flowing.

 

[Fire-medic]

Sometimes the simple solution is the correct one.

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/chasing-my-tail-on-a-headlight-malfunction.31075/
Here's a good load tester, not expensive, name brand, at Northern Tool. Item# 81946 northerntool.com

Schumacher Battery Load Tester — 6/12 Volt, Model# BT-100​

View attachment 91837

• Works on 6 Volt and 12 Volt batteries up to 1000 CCA
• Performs a 50 Amp load test for 6V batteries; 100 Amp load test for 12V batteries
• Performs the following tests: Battery Load; Battery Condition; Starter Motor Draw; Complete Charging System Diagnosis
• Top-mounted rocker switch for easier operation
• Super-grip, heavy-duty color-coded battery clamps provide a solid connection
• Easy-to-read meter is accurate and shock resistant
• Baked enamel, steel case is ventilated to keep cool and built to last
• Rubber insulated carrying handle offers comfort and safety

I wonder how-many owners of this piece of equipment are aware of the ties of Schumacher Electric Corp. to big-time auto racing?

https://www.inc.com/jeff-haden/how-...and-most-successful-nhra-team-in-history.html

An old Schumacher battery charger still kicking.



It's the type which can be used to do electrolysis for rust removal. Note the 6 volt/12 volt switch. Many Yamaha 2 strokes were 6 volt electrical systems. Keep the patina, or treat it to a new coat of oil-based enamel, sprayed-on?

 

[Radioguylogs]

Keep the patina.

I think I have the same model, but mine looks like new. I still keep it in the original box. I's post a picture, but it's in the barn 4 miles away.

 

[Gbianchi]

Mine is a Kmart brand 3amp inherited from my dad in 82 still works great even though one day I got a lil pissed off and kicked the crap out of it lol!