Welcome. Some reading for you. I suggest printing a copy & into a 3-ring binder, and save a copy in your computer.
https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
The search function is your friend. Use it to see what others have contributed to probably the same things you're finding. What is your level of wrenching?
I'll tell you right-now, your immediate future will include removal of the carburetor rack, a tear-down, and I suggest a thorough ultrasonic cleaning. Whether you do it, or you take it somewhere, I expect your ongoing problems will best be solved carburetion-wise, by an ultrasonic bath for the disassembled carbs.
During the storage, it sounds like the carburetors were dry? What about the gas tank? I would start by shining a good lamp into the gas tank ans see what's going on there. If it was stored dry, There's a good possibility of rust. You want to see shiny bare metal. If you see dark goop or encrustations on the floor and sides, that needs to be removed. Use the search function to read how others have done that. Rust removal can be by use of cleaning vinegar, something like 6% concentration. I just bought a gallon of 30% cleaning vinegar for a bit over $20 at Home Depot. I DO NOT RECOMMEND using this at its full-strength! One thing to be aware of, is that under NO CIRCUMSTANCES when using cleaning vinegar do you want to leave the low fuel sender in the tank. If you do, the vinegar will dissolve it! The pot metal cannot withstand the acidity of the vinegar. Fabricate a blank-off plate from a piece of thin steel plate, and use a piece of gasket material on it, or you might try some silicone sealant. You could also leave it off, and place the gas tank into a reservoir where the vinegar can just flow through the port.
Electrolysis is another method of cleaning a gas tank, but I do not recommend doing this inside or leaving it unattended, like starting the process, and going out of the house. There are posts on electrolysis in the VMax 'library.'
There are many posts about tearing into the carburetors, if you intend to do that, you will soon become familiar with the pilot jets, they are in something called the 'jet block.' At this stage of the game, complete carbs are not available from Yamaha and if you have ~$455 to spend, you might find one (1) available. There are four, of course. Some of the individual parts of the carbs are not available from Yamaha new. So be careful.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/50042e28f8700209bc78a2ba/carburetor
Ron Ayres Yamaha is a dealer whom I have used for many years. Here is a good fiche for looking at exploded diagrams and to order new parts.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/l/yam/50042e25f8700209bc78a2af/1989-v-max-1200-vmx12w-parts
Your bike falls into a couple categories you need to know. One is, your ignition is different than most years. The 1985-'89 are analog, they use two pick-up coils off the
flywheel (called the 'stator' as it's part of the electrical system) and they have a 5-pin connector for the ignition signals being sent on their way to the electronic ignition box, which is also different. Yamaha no-longer has the pick-up coils available. They do have the ignition box, $1,144.
Ignitor Unit Assembly 1Assembly
1FK-82305-09-00
Retail Price: $1,293.99
Your Price: $1,143.94
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/yamaha/1fk-82305-09-00/ignitor-unit-assembly-1assembly
The Ignitech box is an aftermarket ignition box replacement, much cheaper! The electrical harness is different from later models.
Several members here you want to know.
Sean Morley
[email protected] is the guy who has probably done more modified VMaxes than anyone. He is generous with his knowledge and he sells both new Yamaha OEM parts, and he stocks commonly used items, like friction discs for the clutch, carburetor parts, brake pads, etc. He also has used parts. Contact him for your needs.
Captain Kyle is in TN and he is a repair person and a 'breaker,' as the British say, he buys VMaxes and dismantles them selling good used parts.
[email protected]
dannymax is the carburetor specialist, New parts, used parts, for carbs, he is another info & parts source, both new and used. He offers an exchange plan for carbs, contact him if you find yourself in that spot. Carb cleaning/rebuilding @ BRC Carb Shop, 16 Taylor Hollow Rd, Ghent, NY 12075 email:
[email protected]
I have done business with all these guys, and you will be wise to use them for getting your bike squared-away, whether it's parts, service work, or information.
Back to your bike. The 1985-'92 bikes have single-opposed piston disc brakes, smaller brake rotors, and the forks are 40mm instead of 43mm on 1993-'07 bikes. You can swap an entire front end of a late model bike to an early bike. The wheels are the same, you could swap-out the brake rotors from the late-model bikes to your early wheel, no problem. The same 5/8" bore front brake master cyl can be used on early and late model bikes.
As you learn about your bike, you should keep a record of what you've done to help you keep track of the changes.
The 1985-'86 bikes had different ffront & rear wheels than the later bikes. They're the same sizes, just different designs.
My personal input, the #1 best thing you can do to improve your bike is to get a wider rear wheel in either 17" or 18" (more rubber choices for the 17") but because of the shorter height of a low-profile tire and the different 17" rim, the bike will not have as-much top-end. Not many of us spend our time at 140+ mph. You can use the OEM Vmax front wheel, buy its width is not optimal for a front radial tire, The front wheel should be a 3-1/2" width to use the same width tire as the stock 18" wheel uses. If you decide to switch to radials, it will probably cost you about $2K+. Read the posts about radial tires, and wheels used for them, front & rear.
A
strong word of caution:
do NOT MIX brands or construction methods of radial tires! The angle of the tread plies to the rim can be different, even among radial tires from the same manufacturer. Be sure that whatever you choose, they are compatible. You can make your bike into an evil-handling bitch by not paying attention to this!
Yes, there are a few bikes where the company engineers mix types of tires, including radial and bias-ply tires. Don't try it here.
There is a long list of things we could continue to discuss. However, read RaWarrior's 'new VMax owners' thread, and you will have a good foundation of knowledge on which to draw. The threads here in the forum, and the search function are your friends. Do some individual research on here in the search function, and then if you still have questions, ask-away.
. Current primary issue, is that it's spitting fuel through the exhaust. The floats seem to work alright, so I'm guessing it's some sort of ignition problem, coils/plugs? it could be more? My aim is to getting it running properly, first, then move on to some basic mods. Any suggestions for where to purchase new and used parts in Australia would be appreciated. Also, the suggestion of a good mechanic on the SE side of Melbourne would be appreciated too.
