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96vmx12oo

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I have a 93 1200. I am short and the max is a bit big for me. So in an attempt to make it fit me, I put on a pair of progressive shocks that are shorter. And now I feel stable, but the drag bars were a real reach and uncomfortable. I installed 8 inch mini apes that I had laying around for a different project. And they actually make the bike fit me comfortably. The end goal is a muscle cruiser for linger trips. Problem is I'm having a fun time finding longer clutch and break hoses for controls, and linger throttle cables....any others done this before? Any suggestions to rectify this problem?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 

Fire-medic

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Always helpful to post your location under your screen name and avatar, and for your signature, your bikes years. That helps people to give you info.

A local hydraulic hose company should be able to use your ends, and to swedge new longer-length hoses on for you. Look at Parts Unlimited online catalogs, as I believe one of the lines they carry can custom-make the throttle cables, and probably the hydraulic lines too.

From watching my friend make up stainless-steel hydraulic hoses for 4,000 psi pressure washers, be-sure you orient the positions of the hose ends, relative to each-other. You don't want to have-to re-do it because you were careless in setting the relative angles of the hose ends, and their physical orientation to each-other.

One resource: Galfer | Custom Lines (galferusa.com)

Another, for the throttle cables: Custom Cables - Motion Pro

For switch pods, you could solder-in wire splices, just be-sure you use heat-shrink tubing to get things waterproof, there's that marine heat-shrink, with goo, to seal really-well. Finally, use a larger-diameter piece to seal the bundle, but as you're cutting/fitting, remember to place that large-diameter piece of heat-shrink on before you start soldering the wires.
 
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02GF74

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What FM says. Just measured and the banjo is 10mm I. D. and gonna be pretty much standard. You only need to replace the top hose as its splits just below the headlamp onto 2 to each calliper. You may as well replace all 3 with stainless steel banjos and braided hose, any hydraulic hose shop should be able swage up a set, same for clutch.

Re. Wiring, cut the wires but staggered so all the joins are not in the same place so you don't get a bulge.
When rejoining, strip off 1/4 inch of insulation, splay the wire strands a parts and push them into each other, then twist the stands so they flatten out, a blob of lux and solder together. Note. Remember to fit the heat shrink tubing before soldering!!!!
 

Tom Determan

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I'm not familiar with how many wires are in the switch harness, but I usually offset my splices a 1/4 in or more to eliminate that big bulge where the splices are. So, when you're cutting the wires, cut them one at a time and move your cut over a little on each wire.

Practice up on your soldering before start on your harness.
 

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