Awful Noise Starting Warm Engine

[Mightymouse]

I'll test the pickup coils and stator tomorrow.

 

[one2dmax]

Those never go bad and not the starter clutch which is bolted to the back of the flywheel

 

[Mightymouse]

So, update on the starter clutch repair...in a nutshell, that awful noise is gone and the bike fires up every time - when the engine is hot or cold (Actually even better than it did before. No hesitation! Much different than the video in the first post. Here's the hot start video: ). There was nothing wrong with the ignition/electrical system. The starter clutch was loose and that was the root cause of the problem.

I removed the old flywheel with a craftsman puller tool. You can find it here: https://www.sears.com/craftsman-harmonic-balancer-puller/p-00949291000P

The tool does not come with the right bolts to pull the vmax flywheel. I bought (3) M8-1.25 x 80mm bolts. Any grade less than 8 may not be strong enough and could strip out when tightening the tools center bolt. I also had to buy washers for the bolts. Home depot did not have any thick washers so I had to buy 3 thin ones and stacked them on top of each other to get enough thickness. I attached some pics below. Thanks Sean.

Removing the flywheel with this tool was easy but could be disastrous if not done carefully. I had to make sure the flywheel's protrusions on the outer circumference were clear of the oil deflector while tightening the pullers center bolt. I used a wrench to hold the flywheel in place while tightening the tools center bolt. It surprised me when the flywheel popped off before I was ready for it. I was about to tap it with a hammer like Sean does in this video:

It came off clean though.

After removing that, I installed a modified Royal Star starter clutch/flywheel. (I got it from Morley's Muscle). It's a better design than the stock vmax starter clutch. It has more rollers and is secured to the flywheel with six burly bolts instead of three. Pics below.

I put it all back together and fired it up. That awful noise it gone and the bike starts up better than it did before. It fires up immediately whether the engine is cold or hot.

But...the alternator cover gasket did not seal well. Oil is now leaking. Video here:

(I used the OEM gasket and followed the Clymer work instructions - torque specs and all. Photo attached.)

I was nervous the gasket would not seal well. I blame myself. When I took the alternator and middle gear cover off, the gaskets came off in pieces. There were many spots (usually around the bolt holes) where gasket material was stuck and could only be removed by scraping it off with a screwdriver.

I was VERY careful not to gouge the metal. But it did get scratched here and there.

I used fine sandpaper to remove any leftover material on the middle gear cover and that does not seem to be leaking. (Looking back on it, I should have done this with the alternator cover as well).

So, I have to take the alternator and middle gear cover off again to fix this oil leak...

Before I do, does anyone have any suggestions? Is sanding a good idea? Can a gasket sealer be used? What's the best approach for doing this job well?

Any help is much appreciated on this end.

 

[Edward]

...It surprised me when the flywheel popped off before I was ready for it...

Leave the center nut looseley attached to keep the flywheel from flying off. When it's free, remove the nut together with the flywheel.

After removing that, I installed a modified Royal Star starter clutch/flywheel. (I got it from Morley's Muscle). It's a better design than the stock vmax starter clutch. It has more rollers and is secured to the flywheel with six burly bolts instead of three. Pics below.

That's a mod I want to check out. I trustyou sprayed out the bolt holes with a quick drying cleaner and then used Loctite.

...the alternator cover gasket did not seal well. Oil is now leaking. ...[/MEDIA]

(I used the OEM gasket and followed the Clymer work instructions - torque specs and all. Photo attached.)

...There were many spots (usually around the bolt holes) where gasket material was stuck and could only be removed by scraping it off with a screwdriver.
I was VERY careful not to gouge the metal. But it did get scratched here and there.
I used fine sandpaper to remove any leftover material on the middle gear cover and that does not seem to be leaking. (Looking back on it, I should have done this with the alternator cover as well).
So, I have to take the alternator and middle gear cover off again to fix this oil leak...
Before I do, does anyone have any suggestions? Is sanding a good idea? Can a gasket sealer be used? What's the best approach for doing this job well?...

Yeah, don't use sandpaper. Buy a new mill file and flat file the mating surfaces. That way you remove, not only the old gasket material but high spots in the metal as well. Hold the file flat across both sides of the cover and file working at different angles to make sure you don't overdo it in one area.

DON'T! Use a gasket sealer like Indian® shellac. It will seal like crazy but is practically impossible to remove if you have to remove the cover in the future.

You MUST... clean both mating surfaces with a VOC like MEK in order to remove ALL oil traces from the microscopic fissures in the mating surfaces. Keep wiping and turning the white paper towel until use see no trace of dirt.

 

[Mightymouse]

Leave the center nut looseley attached to keep the flywheel from flying off. When it's free, remove the nut together with the flywheel.


That's a mod I want to check out. I trustyou sprayed out the bolt holes with a quick drying cleaner and then used Loctite.


Yeah, don't use sandpaper. Buy a new mill file and flat file the mating surfaces. That way you remove, not only the old gasket material but high spots in the metal as well. Hold the file flat across both sides of the cover and file working at different angles to make sure you don't overdo it in one area.

DON'T! Use a gasket sealer like Indian® shellac. It will seal like crazy but is practically impossible to remove if you have to remove the cover in the future.

You MUST... clean both mating surfaces with a VOC like MEK in order to remove ALL oil traces from the microscopic fissures in the mating surfaces. Keep wiping and turning the white paper towel until use see no trace of dirt.

Thanks Edward. I didn’t have a proper flat file to do the job but I did find a razor blade. Was very careful and gently scraped all the old gasket off from both mating surfaces. I used 800 grit sandpaper afterwards to gently remove any remaining traces.

I cleaned everything off as you suggested and reinstalled the cover with a new gasket.

No leaks! Thanks. Problem solved.