Here is the problem, I had a lot of bikes during my college years, then a family and kids for many years and no bikes, then in 2020 with Covid, bikes were dirt cheap so I bought some again. I have a Gen 1 Vmax, 900 Eliminator, M109 as an example. I have always planned on buying a 1700 Vmax, never any doubt. However, I have been reading some of the postings about the Guru flashing and other stuff, and I am starting to wonder if I could ride one safely. I ride my Vmax, 900, and M109 as aggressive as possible up to 80 without doing burnouts, so I am used to getting the most out of the bike 0-80. But I am reading and seeing videos on Youtube of 1700 Vmax guys doing burnouts in 3rd going 70 mph, 2cd gear at speed, and now I am wondering if the bike can be ridden safely in rain for example if you get caught out in it. The guys in they videos, are they using their clutch to start the burnout, surely not just giving it quick throttle?
I was just about ready to buy one, then saw some more stuff, and am wondering.
So what is it like to ride a 1700 Vmax, and can it be ridden safely by average riders that are used to getting on the throttle up to speed?
74 years old just bought my 2017 Vmax and put collector plates on my 1995 Vmax. The gen 2 is 10 times the gen 1 bike. Do not wait go for it, all bikes ride the same in the rain and need respect whether it is a NSU Prima scooter in 1958 or a Vmax gen2 today. The Gen 2 Vmax is best of all bikes I have ridden as they are bullet proof.
Some things to remember
1. Store it in a shed with a heater to raise the temperature 2 degrees above outside. No rust
2. Never work on it as you can only make it run poorly
3. Gel pack battery to start when engine is hot
4. Storage: take the battery cables off, do not charge the battery or use battery tenders. Come back in 6- 8 put a battery tender on for 2 days or until charged, install cables and drive away. A car battery charger will destroy the battery in 1 hour usually.
5. Both gen1 and gen 2 run just fine on cheap gas and there is no requirement for premium.
6. Fuel stabilizer must only be used as directed, excessive amounts will cause carb plugging problems.
7. The last 2 tanks of fuel should be something like Chevron Supreme Plus, 94 octane is ETHANOL FREE
and available at all Chevron locations in British Columbia. It is the Ethanol and excessive amounts fuel stabilizer that cause of carb gum. Keep it full of gas in storage.
8. Read my posts on why gen1 have poor gas mileage and what must be checked before balancing the carbs of which you will probably not have to do.
9. Gen 1 over heating read my posts, briefly there is a little drain knob for the anti freeze lodged in the heads when your draining the cooling system.
You must read and understand how it works, if you do not have the knob in the OFF position of which is I believe the 2 o'clock position the cooling system will not work as designed. It operates like you have no thermostat or like your running it without anti freeze of which one would never do. The knob has a little set screw securing the knob in position. Loosen the screw and turn the knob a 1/4 to 1/2 turn to drain the heads do not try to remove as it is a like a ball valve with a rubber o-ring. Many people have changed the thermostat because the bike will not hold a some what constant temp when operating and it is the head drain knob in the wrong position.
10. If you change the thermostat make sure you have the proper Yamaha o-ring as metric and standard would not work and can cause case damage if too big. According to the book the thermostat needs to be placed with the small hole a certain direction. If you do not have a spring extension (like a speedometer cable) for your allen wrench get one or it will take about 3 hour fooling around with no room and an 1/8 of a turn at a time.
11. I used Lucas wet clutch standard oil for 25 years, not expensive $7 a quart