Choosing my first

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Joined
Sep 25, 2023
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Location
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I'm stuck between a 98 Vmax and a fazer 700 as my first bike. I've ridden a few dirt bikes and a 70s Kawasaki once before.

I really, really want a first gen max, it's damn good looking bike. If I got it, Id use an empty lot to get used to its weight and power before I even hit the road. However, my guy is telling me to get the less powerful fazer 700. I've read that it handles much better and has enough power for most people and has its own charm. I don't know what to get and I'm committed to learn whatever bike I go with to the T. I found both both of them to be within my budget and relatively close by.

If you were in my shoes, which of the two would you pick?
 
As long as you understand that grabbing a handful of throttle on the VMax will get you into serious trouble much-quicker than doing it on a Fazer, I'd go for a VMax. The VMax would be a much easier sale than the Fazer if you decide that you aren't 'into bikes.'

Probably the #1 thing to look-out for is jumping out of 2nd gear if you change from 1st to 2nd, and accelerate. The shift dogs on the gearset can become worn, and the engine will jump out of gear, like hitting neutral. The engine will rev, but no forward motion. The fix for worn 2nd gear engagement dogs is case-splitting, so engine out of the frame. The crankcase is horizontally-split into top and bottom halves, the top case also contains the cylinders. The cylinder heads are separate.

The other common issue with a VMax is that if your tank rusts inside, the crud can clog the small jets in the carburetors. Usually that will require a carb set disassembly, and cleaning, using an ultrasonic cleaner is best. You can try non-disassembly methods like the 'peashooter' or the 'shotgun,' but sometimes the small brass jets become so plugged-up, you need to remove them and physically poke 'em out, and then clean the passages. Again, the ultrasonic method is the best way to clean the carb body passages. Use the 'search' function to read more about the 'shotgun,' the 'peashooter,' and other issues to be aware of with these bikes.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
 
As long as you understand that grabbing a handful of throttle on the VMax will get you into serious trouble much-quicker than doing it on a Fazer, I'd go for a VMax. The VMax would be a much easier sale than the Fazer if you decide that you aren't 'into bikes.'

Probably the #1 thing to look-out for is jumping out of 2nd gear if you change from 1st to 2nd, and accelerate. The shift dogs on the gearset can become worn, and the engine will jump out of gear, like hitting neutral. The engine will rev, but no forward motion.

The other common issue with a VMax is that if your tank rusts inside, the crud can clog the small jets in the carburetors. Usually that will require a carb set disassembly, and cleaning, using an ultrasonic cleaner is best. You can try non-disassembly methods like the 'peashooter' or the 'shotgun,' but sometimes the small brass jets become so plugged-up, you need to remove them and physically poke 'em out, and then clean the passages. Again, the ultrasonic method is the best way to clean the carb body passages. Use the 'search' function to read more about the 'shotgun,' the 'peashooter,' and other issues to be aware of with these bikes.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
Thank you for the response and the information on what to look out for. I'm testing one out tomorrow. From everything I've read, I'm approaching the vmax with a very healthy dose of caution. If it's too much, then it's too much and will go with the fazer. I love bikes and I'm getting back into them, but I don't want to wind up as a vegetable either.
 
It's like anything which can harm you: a power tool, a gun, diving into a pool, surfing. You just need to have a good sense of what you're doing. You need to not be substance-impaired. Wear your gear. Before you accelerate away to road speeds, try the brakes F & R, get a sense of their effectiveness, and remember that using both brakes stops you much quicker than just using either one alone. Check out the lighting: the headlight should be on with the ignition on, the taillight works as a running light and a brake light, and it should illuminate with either the front brake lever or the rear brake pedal. The front turn signals are always on, the rears illuminate when you hit either turn signal. You probably won't need the horn, but check it works. If all the previously-mentioned things work as they should, that is a sign that some attention has been paid to the bike.

Carefully feel the side of the engine, use the back of your hand, and feel if the engine is cold, or warm. A warm bike usually starts easier than a cold bike. Does the starter labor to turn-over the bike? It could be a weak battery, a bad ground, a weak starter, a loose connection to the starter. Again difficulty in starting is a piece of information to use in price negotiations.

Take a look inside the gas tank, and hopefully you will see shiny-bright metal on the floor and sides, unless a previous owner used a tank liner product on it, usually done to stop rust. Look at the oil level window, look at the clutch and front brake fluid levels in their windows. Is the brake fluid in both the front brake and clutch master cylinders clear? It should be. If it isn't the brakes & clutch master cyl's being opaque for the fluid means they have been neglected. Neglect is something you can use as a bargaining tool on asking price.

VMaxes eat rear tires because they're VMaxes. People use the throttle. Check both for any low tread, if you see down to the belts/cords, the bike has been neglected, and another finding for price negotiations.

Look at the coolant tank under the seat/faux gas tank cover, it should have coolant in it and if it doesn't, I would ask to see the filler neck, which will require a bit of disassembly on the right side (the scoop & body panel in front of it). If removing the filler cap shows no coolant, I probably would just excuse myself, and look elsewhere.
 
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JIMMY, I'M GOING TO SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!

Suzuki SV 650 is an excellent choice for the entry level rider…

Don't trust my words or opinion do a search "best beginner bike" and then decide for yourself.

Be advised that a V-max can & will get away from you in a heartbeat, thus it is not conducive to learning the basics such as

First, practice self-control.

Next, you need to learn:

1. Throttle control.

2. Clutch control.

3. Basic breaking skills.

4. Counter steering

5. Smooth downshifting

6. Situational awareness

7. Line selection

8. Advanced breaking techniques


Further, on most motorcycle track days you'll see many SV 650s, they are tons of fun to ride and are competitive at the track after you master the basics

In Conclusion, I realize I am on a V-max forum and others may not agree and it is not my intention to insult or offend anyone who has previously or plans on commenting about the choice of a V-max as a first bike…

I am of the opinion that the V-max is a seductive siren, entry-level riders beware

My final recommendation, is to do a little more research before you make your selection for first motorcycle as an entry-level rider.

My final thought, if my words above have not dissuaded you and are planning on purchasing a V-max
FOLLOW FIRE MEDIC INSTRUCTIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS!


F-18 driver
 
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F18 driver's points are good ones. His list of things to practice are the same type of things you'd get in a Motorcycle Safety Foundation class. If you need to take the MSF class in your state to get a motorcycle license, that is a good thing. The basic rider course is a good introduction to how to own and operate a motorcycle. The experienced rider course is probably what I'd consider as a place to help develop your riding skills.

From your post, you have some experience with motorcycle operation. That's good, because it means you've probably gained some insight about how a motorcycle can hurt you. By that, I mean you probably may have already had a bike topple over on you. On a 'crotch rocket,' you can do thousands of dollars of damage to the motorcycle just by having it fall-over while you are stationary, and not even moving! Those plastic pieces of bodywork are very expensive! Expensive to get, expensive to paint. Fortunately, the VMax doesn't have much in the way of bodywork.

The bike you're going to look at, see if the sides of the exhaust have any road rash on their outside edges. Also check the handlebar ends, and the levers for the clutch and front brake, where the ends may have made contact with the pavement. Bent, broken, road-rashed parts mean that the bike had a 'date with the pavement' at some point. If the bike has case guards at the front sides of the engine (usually chrome tubing protecting the cases of the engine) see if they have road rash.

Another place to look for damage is the pair of front fork bump-stops, on the lower 'triple-tree,' the fork casting holding the fork downtubes. See if they're still there. A big hit can actually break them off, I've seen that. The fork stops prevent the front forks from moving too-far, side to side.

Since you may already have looked at a bike or two, these tips can be applied to any bike you may be considering and can be used to negotiate a lower price, if you find evidence of crash damage.
 
JIMMY, I'M GOING TO SAVE YOUR LIFE!!!

Suzuki SV 650 is an excellent choice for the entry level rider…

Don't trust my words or opinion do a search "best beginner bike" and then decide for yourself.

Be advised that a V-max can & will get away from you in a heartbeat, thus it is not conducive to learning the basics such as

First, practice self-control.

Next, you need to learn:

1. Throttle control.

2. Clutch control.

3. Basic breaking skills.

4. Counter steering

5. Smooth downshifting

6. Situational awareness

7. Line selection

8. Advanced breaking techniques


Further, on most motorcycle track days you'll see many SV 650s, they are tons of fun to ride and are competitive at the track after you master the basics

In Conclusion, I realize I am on a V-max forum and others may not agree and it is not my intention to insult or offend anyone who has previously or plans on commenting about the choice of a V-max as a first bike…

I am of the opinion that the V-max is a seductive siren, entry-level riders beware
My final recommendation, is to do a little more research before you make your selection for first motorcycle as an entry-level rider.

My final thought, if my words above have not dissuaded you and are planning on purchasing a V-max
FOLLOW FIRE MEDIC INSTRUCTIONS AND RECOMMENDATIONS!


F-18 driver
I tested it out and could barely handle the weight. The owner realized I never handled one before and refused to sell it to me, however he offered to give me a ride to see what I'd be dealing with and the power was nothing like I had anticipated. I really had to hold on when he gave it the beans! Scared the every loving pants off of me (I secretly liked it). Thank you guys for advising me to approach with caution and to steer me away from the max. I see why and for now, I completely agree. I still want to try out the fazer, I assume 700cc will be a lot easier to manage, but Im not going to hold my breath.
 
Go for the fazer, rare machine love the look. After many years of riding my xt500 I bought a VMAX awesome machine scares me every time but it’s all good, let us know what happens!
 
Go for the fazer, rare machine love the look. After many years of riding my xt500 I bought a VMAX awesome machine scares me every time but it’s all good, let us know what happens!
Tried out the fazer and it's such a happy bike! It's heavy, but not too heavy to handle and loves to get on it. I'm in love with this bike, it needs some work done since it's been in storage for a long time but it runs and drives! It's more than enough power for my skill level and the riding position feels so natural, my legs are a little cramped but it's doable. I got it for only $1,000
 
Congrats on the Fazer. I have an '86, and after getting off the VMax (or my VRod, even more so), the Fazer feels like it's infinitely smaller, lighter, and more maneuverable. Don't get me wrong; I love my big V's, but the Fazer is often pure joy with significantly less effort. I wouldn't consider it at all a handful below 5000-6000 RPM. At lower revs, it's pretty docile. So use throttle judiciously, allow for adequate braking distances, master the art of turning speed selection, and be vigilant at intersections, where many mishaps occur (e.g. the classic "left turn in front of motorcyclist"). I strongly recommend MSF training for new and experienced riders alike. It may not only save your life, but it's a fun way to meet fellow enthusiasts.
 

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The Fazers are great bikes. Easy to upgrade to huge front brakes and convert to radials. PLUS, you can swap an FZR1000 in there once you get more skill level. That will make that bike WAY faster then the Vmax. Though. At some point you may want to have one of them too lol!
 
Here's a photo of the Fazer from the ad, I have to go and pick it up once I can. It's even more pretty in person, 11,300 miles, and it's been garaged it's whole life. In telling you this bike is spotless and has been meticulously maintained. New clutch, battery and a few other things. It sat since 2017 and needs a couple things before it can get back on the road. I need to replace the float gaskets, replace the o-rings in the rear brake cylinder, and get a new front tire. But for $1,000 I'm not complaining haha
 

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Sometimes the float bowl gaskets fail, but I suspect it may be the float needle and its seat which may be pissing gas.

The brakes are usually referred to as calipers, they have square O-rings, one per piston, and a dust seal.

You mention the front tire replacement, what's the date on the rear tire? If it's 5 years old or more, you should replace it. It will be in a four digit format. The first two are the week (52 weeks!) and the second two are the las two digits of the year, so 1519 would be the fifteenth week (March) of 2019.

An explosive decompression of a tire on a motorcycle is usually a trip to the E.R. A slow leak and you not noticing it, but becoming a flat tire, turns the 'fine-handling' VMax into a wallowing pig, and could also result in a spill. The first gear trip will probably be very-short as you wonder, "what the %$+! happened to my motorcycle?" as it acts like an alcoholic after consuming a quart of Old Rotgut and trying to run from a mugger. If the bead of the tire falls-off the bead seat of the wheel, you're going down.
 
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Sometimes the float bowl gaskets fail, but I suspect it may be the float needle and its seat which may be pissing gas.

The brakes are usually referred to as calipers, they have square O-rings, one per piston, and a dust seal.

You mention the front tire replacement, what's the date on the rear tire? If it's 5 years old or more, you should replace it. It will be in a four digit format. The first two are the week (52 weeks!) and the second two are the las two digits of the year, so 1519 would be the fifteenth week (March) of 2019.
I'll have to really take a look once I get the bike home, could possibly be both.

The front tire is the original tire from the factory, it's definitely getting replaced. The rear tire looked almost new, but it's not going to hurt anything to double check.
 
The Fazers are great bikes. Easy to upgrade to huge front brakes and convert to radials. PLUS, you can swap an FZR1000 in there once you get more skill level. That will make that bike WAY faster then the Vmax. Though. At some point you may want to have one of them too lol!
Idk man, I like the fazer a lot lol. I read up about that swap, if I find another fazer thats got a blown motor then I'm going with that swap, other wise this one stays stock! 😎
 
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