Clutch Boss - "ring set" Necessary ?
- Thread starter Semi239
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Many people remove the wire ring and the half-width friction disc, replacing it with a full-width friction disc. The system is there to act as a sort-of slipper clutch, to ease the clumsy downshift of a rider, where engine speed and clutch speed are different.
Not sure about the slipper clutch function but if you note that #6 is a 'spring cushion' which softens the gear change and act as a sort of damper.
If the half disc assy. is removed the gear change becomes more clunky and there is more more noise from the clutch pack.
So to answer your question, if you are retaining the half discs I would retain the wire. If you are replacing with full discs the omit it.
That said, with a standard power output and decent frictions you are unlikely to get any benefit by going full plate and the gear change will not be as smooth.
If the half disc assy. is removed the gear change becomes more clunky and there is more more noise from the clutch pack.
So to answer your question, if you are retaining the half discs I would retain the wire. If you are replacing with full discs the omit it.
That said, with a standard power output and decent frictions you are unlikely to get any benefit by going full plate and the gear change will not be as smooth.
Thank you both for the knowledge.
So would you consider the full plate mod to be more relevant to those with modified engines(i.e. over-bore and boosted applications) than those with stock/stage 7 engines?
I did a bit more searching to try to understand the purpose of this design and I couldn't find much on the VMAX.
However, I found some info in a dirtbike forum that explains it in a way I understand. They are calling these "anti-judder" springs or judder springs. It does exactly as you have both described above. It is to absorb some of the impacts from a sloppy gear change. Just as a slipper clutch would on a Ducati dry clutch!
They also discussed the reasons to bypass this system in racing applications, since a smooth ride isn't exactly the point.
For my road use application, I will keep the judder spring for a smoother ride.
However, I found some info in a dirtbike forum that explains it in a way I understand. They are calling these "anti-judder" springs or judder springs. It does exactly as you have both described above. It is to absorb some of the impacts from a sloppy gear change. Just as a slipper clutch would on a Ducati dry clutch!
They also discussed the reasons to bypass this system in racing applications, since a smooth ride isn't exactly the point.
For my road use application, I will keep the judder spring for a smoother ride.
A slipper clutch is a different beastie which is used to reduce the effects of engine braking (reverse torque) as a bike decelerates following a down shift.
This will prevent over revving the engine and the rear wheel hopping under hard braking.
Sorry, pedant mode switched on automatically.
This will prevent over revving the engine and the rear wheel hopping under hard braking.
Sorry, pedant mode switched on automatically.
Personally, we always eliminate the wire, half friction, damper washer and seat (also a washer looking part) and put in the full size plate. Far simpler function. Sort of like a shift kit. With stock, HD spring, or double spring conversions. With stock or modified engines.
These parts (1/2 friction not pictured)
These parts (1/2 friction not pictured)
No worries! I appreciate the knowledge and I see how the slipper clutch analogy is not quite right!Sorry, pedant mode switched on automatically.
Thanks for the input Sean! So after it's all pulled out you go back with a steel plate first? then friction and another steel to take up the space of the previous parts?
Start and end with frictions starting at the back of the main basket.
