Turn them around, that's what I take it to mean. Sometimes the stacked-up tolerances of the steelies and friction discs may cause the stack to make the clutch drag, they're suggesting you invert (from up to down) them to see if the stack overall thickness changes enough to not make it drag.
Your stack is correct unless upon reassembly you find that even with the order as first done, as you have it, the clutch drags. They then are telling you to change them from right-side up, to upside-down. The two dimples on the basket will not be aligned with the friction disc notches as you now have it.
Hello all new to the forum here. Recently acquired a 95 vmax from a guy locally here in Texas. The bike sat for bout a year. I had the carbs rebuilt and put them on the other day with no issues. The bike runs great. While checking the controls the clutch lever had no positive feedback and went straight to the handlebar when pulled. The reservoir still had a little fluid in it. Cleaned the reservoir and bled the system normally and reversed bled as well. Even bled the air from the banjo bolt by the clutch master. The clutch lever has great stiff feel and operates normally now. The issue I have is that when I pull the clutch lever in and put the bike in gear it jumps forward and kills itself without me ever releasing the clutch lever.
P. S. I did use the search function first and could not find an answer to my issue. Majority of it was "proper" bleeding procedures and full clutch rebuilds/mods.
I had that problem with my 1500 Vulcan after it sat for an extended period, I started it on a hill/slope, got it rolling then put it in gear, after a short ride the clutch started to work properly and has ever since, that was 10 years ago