Help With Exhaust

Discussion in 'Exhaust' started by astros50, May 1, 2020.

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  1. May 1, 2020 #1

    astros50

    astros50

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    Long time lurker here. I have learned a ton. I am finally getting around to ceramic coating my exhaust system. I have always hated the black cans and chrome headers. In prep for this I am disassembling everything for the coater.

    Does the header come apart at the "mid pipe?" I assume these should come apart, but am struggling to get them apart. The rest of the exhaust was kind of tough to disassemble, but I cant get any movement at all. See the arrows on the photos. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  2. May 2, 2020 #2

    Fire-medic

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    Yes, some heat may free them up. You could try a torch, apply heat all-around the end of the header pipe, where the slip-joint is, for the crossover pipe.
     
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  3. May 2, 2020 #3

    MaxMidnight

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    Have you tried applying penetrating oil and leave it to soak?

    Once coated you may have to remove the coating around the joint areas to allow sufficient clearance to allow a sliding fit.
     
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  4. May 2, 2020 #4

    Fire-medic

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    Or go to a muffler shop before the coating, and have the outside pipe expanded minimally, to allow the coated pipe to fit.
     
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  5. May 2, 2020 #5

    astros50

    astros50

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    Was thinking about the heat from reading all of the threads regarding the topic. It I don’t have access to a torch. I assume one of those propane units that use a camping propane cylinder would do the trick. Heat is heat— Right?

    As far as the penetrating oil I’ve been soaking the joints for 2 days. My next question is probably like asking about your favorite motor oil. But is one penetrating oil better than another? I keep hitting the joint with WD-40. Which did the trick for all of the other joints.
     
  6. May 2, 2020 #6

    TK3333

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    PB blaster is a popular penetrating cataylist, but WD and Liquid Wrench make a version as well as other brands also.
     
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  7. May 2, 2020 #7

    MaxMidnight

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    I have read (but never tried) that diesel and acetone in a 50/ 50 mix is the stuff to use.
    Apparently it is so good it could even get money out of my wallet! :eek:
     
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  8. May 2, 2020 #8

    astros50

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    At this point I'll try just about anything. I just don't want the cops showing up at my house thinking I am Walter White or something!!
     
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  9. May 3, 2020 #9

    wood1

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    You could just leave it and let the coater deal with it?
     
  10. May 3, 2020 #10

    welder58

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    Aerokroil [the orange can] is the best. Used it in offshore work. Works wonders.
     
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  11. May 3, 2020 #11

    Fire-medic

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    While I'm sure that cocktail will work, I've read the best results penetrant as-tested by more-than one person in a comparison was 50/50% mix of ATF and acetone. Kroil is expensive, but seems to-be the best over-the counter, it's not-cheap. I like and use PB Blaster.

    Yes, a propane torch should provide you with all the heat you need. Especially if you get the pair of chain wrenches, below. HFT, cheap at $10 apiece.

    Once you soak the joints for a day or two, with the 'good-stuff,' you might try a pair of these from Harbor Freight Tools (HFT, 'Locking Chain Clamp,' below). One wrench might do it, but two together will probably work a 'whole-lot better. Apply them at a 60 degree spacing, and push and pull them together/apart, and I bet that stubborn joint will release. Just clamp the outside one as-far-back as you can position it from the inside pipe. You don't want to-constrict the pipe inside by clamping the chain directly-over it on the outside pipe.

    Penetrant applied followed by heat, and then the torque of the chain pliers, should release the pipes. I suggest working outside, you don't want a flash-fire from the penetrating oil hitting the hot piping to ignite anything near-by, including your eyebrows, hair and forearm hair, or clothing. You do have a couple of fire extinguishers in the work area don't you? A 10 lb, ABC dry chemical extinguisher should work, if you need it, and one in-reserve.

    https://www.harborfreight.com/locki...MIprHwu-OX6QIVBeXICh2fCAV5EAQYBCABEgLscPD_BwE

    These are sold there, too, but I think the metal type will 'bite' better.
    https://www.harborfreight.com/rubber-strap-wrench-set-2-pc-69373.html
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
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  12. May 3, 2020 #12

    one2dmax

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    On the stock exhaust I do not believe that joint is meant to come loose. If it was they would have used a gasket and clamp which they did not.
     
  13. May 3, 2020 #13

    Montana vmax

    Montana vmax

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    I love project farm
     
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  14. May 3, 2020 #14

    Fire-medic

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    I'm gonna defer to Sean on this one. I just took a look at my Delkevic pipes N.I.B., and other than the single joint to separate the left from the right header pipes, the crossover pipes are part of each side. No coming-apart, one stub is short and one stub is long.

    Points if you can I.D. the background item.

    VMax Delkevic exhaust headers.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2020
  15. May 22, 2020 at 12:30 PM #15

    desert_max

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    I should pay more attention. Probably as much information as I need contained right here. Please disregard my superfluous request for assistance on OEM exhaust removal. One thing is certain, it is a royal PIA if it’s been on there a while.
     

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