New member in Pittsburgh Pa

[wcochran913]

Hey all! Recently grabbed this off a friend of my old mans. Been sitting in garage for a few years. Bike had sputtered out mid trip guy was not a mechanic. This sucker has 94k miles on it! In very good shape for the milage, and at some point was owned or worked on by a decent mechanic. Got it running day one, but real rough, turns out carbs and ignition issues. Thanks for the knowledge in advance as I know I'm gonna need it!!

 

[Fire-medic]

An '85, we want to know the last 4 VIN #'s!

If it doesn't jump out of 2nd gear when you hammer it, you're more-than halfway there!

If you're familiar with CV carburetors, you should be able to square that away quickly. Consider a disassembly, an ultrasonic bath, and some O-rings/gaskets, K&N parts are a cost-efficient way to fix things. Do Not Buy or use the "everything in brass & O-rings/gaskets ebay sets!" VMax friends don't let friends use those!

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/new-vmax-owner-faqs-new-members-please-read.21240/
The pilot jet is the smalles orifice in the carburetors, and it's often clogged with debris. That could be from a dirty, rusty gas tank. Take a look inside and see if the floor of the gas tank is shiny-clean, or if it appears that someone used a liner-product to deal with a rusty gas tank.

The carburetors are sensitive to the float levels being set properly. You can do a 'dry-set,' which normally will be sufficient, but in the service manual is also the procedure to perform a 'wet-set.'

The K&N gasket set will save you $$ over the prices of OEM same pieces. They are quality replacements.

If you cannot see through the pilot jets, individually, you need to use a strand of wire to poke 'em out.



The pilot jet


Poking through the pilot jet solid debris. Using a 'pin-vise' is a good way to do it. Be careful you aren't damaging the diameter of the pilot jet hole.





Did you remove the jet block and remove the rubber plugs, and then the brass inside the jet block? That's the main bleed pipe and the pilot jet. The main jet is outside of the jet block, and going to a 150 or 147.5 often helps performance, as the carbs are jetted a bit rich from the factory.

Problems with idle & low-speed operation are frequently due to plugged pilot jets. If you aren't going to be riding for weeks/months, or longer, run the carbs dry or drain the float bowls. The pilot jets are susceptible to becoming obstructed due to ethanol gasoline, and extended periods of inactivity, or a rusty gas tank.




The 'crimp fix' of the electrical system, which will increase the volts to your battery charging. You have to remove some of the wire loom wrapping to expose this brass crimp, which you then solder for better conductivity. You pick-up 1+ volts. This is above the battery box.

 

[wcochran913]

An '85, we want to know the last 4 VIN #'s!

If it doesn't jump out of 2nd gear when you hammer it, you're more-than halfway there!

It's got a bad cdi box. No spark front left spark on first crank front right. Coils good. Pick ups are all between 115 and 121 ohms (depending on which meter I check with).

So I guess I'm looking for someone to give me info on rebuilding cdi box, or where I can get one that I know is good

 

[wcochran913]

It's got a bad cdi box. No spark front left spark on first crank front right. Coils good. Pick ups are all between 115 and 121 ohms (depending on which meter I check with).

So I guess I'm looking for someone to give me info on rebuilding cdi box, or where I can get one that I know is good

Didn't notice all the do not use. Used the gasket kits from eBay. All the brass is good in the carbs. Was just dirty. The main is jetted (I think 152.5) and there's a k&n in the air box. I'm on a budget, as my wife is not speaking to me over this bike, for over a month now. She "doesn't understand why I would want this pos when I have a 2018 road king special". She doesn't get it

I had it running rough on I guess 2 lungs after the rebuild, and all 4 are getting fuel in the lungs so I guess spark and then we will see if the trans is shot. Which is very disheartening btw

 

[Fire-medic]

Several options.

Ask Sean Morley for a good used 1985-'89 TCI box [email protected]

CaptainKyle may have one [email protected]

Check the forum classified ads.

Replace it with an Ignitech box. This gives you a rev-limiter, which will help your bike to live longer. You can also comtrol VBoost with the Ignitech, and use it for control of power-adders like NOS, and ignition curves.

There are two DYNA ignition boxes for the Gen. 1, as described below. 1985-'89 and 1990-'07.

The old DYNA ignition box uses dip switches for setting the ignition curve, while the new DYNA boxes did away with the dip switches, but are programmable.

The '85-'89 OEM TCI boxes are 5 wires for the two pick-up coils.



The 1990-'07 OEM TCI boxes are a single pick-up coil.




Your issues with the rough running may indeed be due to the ebay kits if they include brass you're using. They have proven to be a source of never-ending (until they're removed from use) frustration and headaches. Look via the search function on the forum for sob-stories of ebay no-name jet kits causing grown men to cry, wail, and gnash their teeth. Brass should be OEM, Dynojet, K&N, or Mikuni, Factory Pro also makes decent jet kits. Sean Morley also has his Morley's Muscle jet kit, which favors mid-range, which is where most of us spend our riding time. If you're still using OEM brass, and they're not worn, dirty/plugged or broken, you may be OK.

 

[wcochran913]

Several options.

Ask Sean Morley for a good used 1985-'89 TCI box [email protected]

CaptainKyle may have one [email protected]

Check the forum classified ads.

Replace it with an Ignitech box. This gives you a rev-limiter, which will help your bike to live longer. You can also comtrol VBoost with the Ignitech, and use it for control of power-adders like NOS, and ignition curves.

There are two DYNA ignition boxes for the Gen. 1, as described below. 1985-'89 and 1990-'07.

The old DYNA ignition box uses dip switches for setting the ignition curve, while the new DYNA boxes did away with the dip switches, but are programmable.

The '85-'89 OEM TCI boxes are 5 wires for the two pick-up coils.

View attachment 90213

The 1990-'07 OEM TCI boxes are a single pick-up coil.

View attachment 90214


Your issues with the rough running may indeed be due to the ebay kits. They have proven to be a source of never-ending (until they're removed from use) frustration and headaches. Look via the search function on the forum for sob-stories of ebay no-name jet kits causing grown men to cry, wail, and gnash their teeth. Brass should be OEM, Dynojet, K&N, or Mikuni, Factory Pro also makes decent jet kits. Sean Morley also has his Morley's Muscle jet kit, which favors mid-range, which is where most of us spend our riding time.

 

[wcochran913]

Thanks for the info so far. I shoulda joined the forum day one! I been running off motorcycle and carb 101 info from all the old cbs, kzs, wings, magna's, and what not I used to have. It's nice to have specific targeted info. I must say tho, I wish this thing had points and condenser. Woulda been running a month ago.

i believe I posted a pic of the vin tag, but anyways last 4 is 2702. I'm assuming that's it's number off the assembly line? I'm gonna have to do some research on these cdi boxes, and, if I do keep this thing, will be putting a super trapp setup or something tastefully too loud on it, so the Morley Muscle kit will probably be on the table.

You've also got me really worried about this second gear thing. Can you elaborate a little on that? I HATE rebuilding gearboxes, and if this is a problematic thing with these bikes, I want to mentally prepare for it. (However if the motor has to come out, I guess it would be getting a full resto at that point).

On a complete side note, I saw a bunch of posts on focus coils. I did not read into it at all, so am I to assume that

 

[Fire-medic]

The VIN #'s begin at xxx101 being the first bike off the production line, not xxx001.

No only wish points/condenser on an enemy! Not that a properly maintained traditional setup won't work, but thanks to CDI/TCI systems, these are usually 'set & forget' and will commonly last the length of most owners' time with the bike. OEM, Ignitech, and DYNA are the common choices for those of us in the USA.

#1 on exhausts, a slip-on pair will not increase your RWHP!

They are to replace a crash-damaged muffler, or to give a different exhaust noise. Then there is the 'Cobra contingent' who values cool looks over horsepower. The Cobra 4-into-4 look great, but they rob you of horsepower! A decent VMax will give you something around 110 RWHP, some a bit more, some a bit less. The Cobras will sap you of ~14 RWHP and reduce your power to ~96 RWHP. It's OK to have looks as paramount to your desires, but this is a 'power cruiser,' after all, and most owners enjoy the OEM level of horsepower, and search for more, not less.

A full exhaust system, from headers to the canister(s) is needed to make more RWHP, and that's with proper tuning. Slapping-on a pair of aftermarket canisters will not do anything like increase your RWHP. Keep that in mind. I'd rather save my $ until I could afford a complete system and the jetting changes to make it perform better than OEM.

Second gear is a reason many VMaxes get sold, The owner cannot afford the cost of the fix, so they sell. There are many VMax owners with a 2nd gear problem who just double-shift past 2nd gear, and ride happily ever after. Yes the engine needs to come-out, and yes, cases split. There are some things I'd do if I was making that job. Check with Sean Morley about his h-d oiling changes. the O-ring on the oil pick-up can 'pop' out of its position, causing oil supply issues. Use the search function to see pics. The cheap fix is to use a Kawasaki O-ring there, which resists the popping-out. Sean Morley's h-d oil pieces ensures your bike won't have that issue.

I'd also look at the shift forks and shift drum to see if they need replacement due to wear or other issues. And for the ne-plus ultra of splitting the cases, consider an undercut transmission. Well-worth the price. It shifts better, and helps to prevent second gear issues.

COP's do not 'make horsepower' above stock, they just make it easier to fix a bad coil.

 

[wcochran913]

The VIN #'s begin at xxx101 being the first bike off the production line, not xxx001.

No only wish points/condenser on an enemy! Not that a properly maintained traditional setup won't work, but thanks to CDI/TCI systems, these are usually 'set & forget' and will commonly last the length of most owners' time with the bike. OEM, Ignitech, and DYNA are the common choices for those of us in the USA.

#1 on exhausts, a slip-on pair will not increase your RWHP!

They are to replace a crash-damaged muffler, or to give a different exhaust noise. Then there is the 'Cobra contingent' who values cool looks over horsepower. The Cobra 4-into-4 look great, but they rob you of horsepower! A decent VMax will give you something around 110 RWHP, some a bit more, some a bit less. The Cobras will sap you of ~14 RWHP and reduce your power to ~96 RWHP. It's OK to have looks as paramount to your desires, but this is a 'power cruiser,' after all, and most owners enjoy the OEM level of horsepower, and search for more, not less.

A full exhaust system, from headers to the canister(s) is needed to make more RWHP, and that's with proper tuning. Slapping-on a pair of aftermarket canisters will not do anything like increase your RWHP. Keep that in mind. I'd rather save my $ until I could afford a complete system and the jetting changes to make it perform better than OEM.

Second gear is a reason many VMaxes get sold, The owner cannot afford the cost of the fix, so they sell. There are many VMax owners with a 2nd gear problem who just double-shift past 2nd gear, and ride happily ever after. Yes the engine needs to come-out, and yes, cases split. There are some things I'd do if I was making that job. Check with Sean Morley about his h-d oiling changes. the O-ring on the oil pick-up can 'pop' out of its position, causing oil supply issues. Use the search function to see pics. The cheap fix is to use a Kawasaki O-ring there, which resists the popping-out. Sean Morley's h-d oil pieces ensures your bike won't have that issue.

I'd also look at the shift forks and shift drum to see if they need replacement due to wear or other issues. And for the ne-plus ultra of splitting the cases, consider an undercut transmission. Well-worth the price. It shifts better, and helps to prevent second gear issues.

COP's do not 'make horsepower' above stock, they just make it easier to fix a bad coil.

Ok. So I've decided after what I can find that the ignitech is going to be the way to go. I want to keep the bike as stock as possible until I decide if I'm going to keep it or make money on it ( I'm not above trading this thing for v65 and/or some cash) I'm having trouble finding the specific info on which ignitech model (tcpi4?) what accessories (connectors), and basic programming. I saw there was a post from the stone age about them being available from a forum member, but it doesn't look valid anymore as 2017 was the most recent reply, and also, I cannot figure out how to find the classifieds.

As far as the trans, I'll have to cross that bridge when I get there. I'm hoping with 94000 miles, it's been rebuilt already. So far, as I tore this thing apart to troubleshoot, everything seems to be well maintained and cared for, so here's hoping that was an already solved issue.....

Thanks again.

 

[Fire-medic]

A referral for you to contact Sean Morley for your desired parts (an Ignitech box) [email protected]

Classifieds: from the home screen, Yamaha Star Cycle V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum pan down to VMax Market. Then see VMax Classifieds-for sale and wanted V-Max Classifieds - For Sale & Wanted

 

[one2dmax]

I can't help you until you flip the front fender around to be the correct direction lol