new mighty vac

[crashmymax]

I bought a mityvac today hoping it would make the brake/clutch bleeding easier. I had all the fluid out of the masters and put new ss lines on. I have pumped about 12 oz of fluid through the front calipers. Does it normally take alot of fluid to get the air out if so about how much 3-4 12oz bottles? Or am i doing something wrong? I have no brake at all. I have not tried the clutch yet.

I followed the mityvac instructions on the forum.

 

[gamorg02]

I bought a mityvac today hoping it would make the brake/clutch bleeding easier. I had all the fluid out of the masters and put new ss lines on. I have pumped about 12 oz of fluid through the front calipers. Does it normally take alot of fluid to get the air out if so about how much 3-4 12oz bottles? Or am i doing something wrong? I have no brake at all. I have not tried the clutch yet.

I followed the mityvac instructions on the forum.

when you close the bleeder it still doesn't give you resistance? how many times did u pump the master, after a rebuild it could take 10-15 tries to get fluid thru the caliper.

when using the mityvac i find it hard to tell when the air is out since it pulls so hard it looks like there is always bubbles.

 

[crashmymax]

I have pumped it about 50 times by now. I must have a little bit of resistance because the pads tightened on the rotors but not enough to feel it in the brake lever. Am i supposed to pump the brake lever after each time i use the mityvac?

 

[crashmymax]

also tried to gravity bleed the clutch but no fluid is coming through its been open for about 20 minutes.

 

[gamorg02]

Did you try reverse bleeding?

 

[crashmymax]

no i dont have a syringe.

 

[gennro]

It usually takes awhile when you replace all the lines. The best bet is to use a rubber mallet and tap all the brake components to help break loose any air pockets. You can use the banjo bolt on the master to help bleed that air that will stick right there.

 

[sarchin]

there is a post on here somewhere where they figured that air was coming in from around the threads of the bleeder screw. He put some teflon tape around the threads and then was able to bleed successfully.

 

[smithben1983]

I just got my mightyvac yesterday... what if you used one of the add-on points for the vac and removed the bleeder?

just think out loud here

 

[crashmymax]

I broke the bolt at the master loose, put teflon on the bleeder valves, tapped the crap out of every part of the lines calipers and master. No brake yet and a constant flow of bubbles. I am going to give up on the front and try the rear and see if i have any luck. any thoughts welcom. Is there any way to reverse bleed without a syringe (jimmy rigg somthing)?

3 hours of bleeding brake fluid or blood who knows:hmmm:

 

[Fire-medic]

I broke the bolt at the master loose, put teflon on the bleeder valves, tapped the crap out of every part of the lines calipers and master. No brake yet and a constant flow of bubbles. I am going to give up on the front and try the rear and see if i have any luck. any thoughts welcom. Is there any way to reverse bleed without a syringe (jimmy rigg somthing)?

3 hours of bleeding brake fluid or blood who knows:hmmm:

You can use a spray bottle w/plastic tubing over the nozzle & a 'Christmas tree' reducer to the correct size tubing to slip onto the bleeder fitting. Then pump-away! (reverse bleed)

 

[crashmymax]

rear brake bled no problem. going to see if i can jimmy a reverse bleeder.

 

[Heretic]

It shouldn't take that long. Are you sure that the master isn't running out of fluid and allowing air in? When I replaced my lines I used the Mityvac until I had a constant flow of fluid and then did the pump, hold and bleed technique using the lever about three times. Worked perfect. If the master runs dry and you allow air in you have to start over.

 

[crashmymax]

kept the master full all the time. I never got any brake at all. Even with some air in it should pump up a little? I am going to move on to the clutch now and see how that goes.

 

[smithben1983]

one thing when I was dealing with this yesterday was I think at first I was checking the brake when the bleeder was open or something. make sure u got everything tight and try

 

[crashmymax]

1. rear brake bled no problem

2. clutch bled no problem

3. front brake still not working. It is not building any pressure at all (pistons have not pushed the pads tight against the rotor yet) could i have messed something up when i replaced the brake lever?

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds like a problem w/the master cyl piston not developing pressure. If you aren't even getting any static draining w/the master cyl filled & the caliper bleeders open, then i think you may have an obstruction.

Remove all fittings & lines, use compressed air thru them to verify the openings are clear, reassemble & fill again. You can pre-fill the calipers & then install the lines, make sure all are tght, open the calipers' bleeders & in a minute you should get fluid driping out the bleeders (use clear plastic tubing to prevent a mess/contaminated pads). This is the static bleed. Close the bleeders, fill the master cyl, & either use the MityVac or do the "pump/hold lever pressure/open the bleeder valve, see fluid flow/close the bleeder valve, release lever pressure & check the master cyl fluid level." i just rap on the splitter junction w/my 3/8" ratchet, do the same to the master cyl banjo bolt, & pump repeatedly the lever, then repeat the bleed sequence, a few sessions of that & you should have a good firm lever. If you don't then i would look at a collapsed hose (internally) or your master cyl piston is not sealing (bleeding internally).

 

[THAIMAX]

Are the copper washers all in place and in good condition, I spent hours trying to bleed mine and found that had a air leak (no fluid) at the splitter, I had tried to reuse the washers one time too many!

 

[98Redlne]

A turkey baster (syringe type) can be obtained at many gourmet type stores or even Bed Bath and Beyond. It makes the reverse bleed pretty easy.

The biggest problem I had when I replaced all of my brake lines was keeping the fluid level over the small hole in the master that feeds the lines. It does not take very much to suck the level down enough to get air back in the top end <facepalm>.

Other than that I found the bleeding to go pretty smoothly (even with a 3 hose system in front). Is is possible you have an air leak somewhere else in the system?

 

[Pingu]

Are you sure the seals in the master are good?