SDF Seal? Please help

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jimvette999

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Please help me on this.

I have a 98 Vmax and I have oil leaking from behind the clutch slave cylinder at a seal known as an "SDO type" seal. I don't know what "SDO type" means.

My question is, can this seal be installed without splitting the case? My service manual does not stipulate.

Thanks in advance.

Jim
 

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Please help me on this.

I have a 98 Vmax and I have oil leaking from behind the clutch slave cylinder at a seal known as an "SDO type" seal. I don't know what "SDO type" means.

My question is, can this seal be installed without splitting the case? My service manual does not stipulate.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

I believe so... I am pretty sure it's just pressed into the outside of the case much like a wheel bearing seal.:thumbs up: You can see that it's the first item after the complete slave parts breakdown.

Shawn or Sean can give you a definitive answer though.
 
Yep, no problem at all. It's harder to get them out then back in though. Seal is built like a wheel bearing seal. Simple design that has been effective for 50 or more years.

You will want to make sure your push rod is clean and burr free. Just polish it up a bit before you put it back in.

Sean Morley
 
Thank you for the replies. :cheers:

Do you guys know what the "SDO" stands for? :ummm:

Jim
 
Please help me on this.

I have a 98 Vmax and I have oil leaking from behind the clutch slave cylinder at a seal known as an "SDO type" seal. I don't know what "SDO type" means.

My question is, can this seal be installed without splitting the case? My service manual does not stipulate.

Thanks in advance.

Jim

SDO refers to Standard(s) Developing Organisation. It appears immediately in a sequence of information on the outward facing edge of the seal as 'SDO 8.8 22 6'

This means Standard(s) Developing Organisation 8.8mm inside diameter, 22mm outside diameter, 6mm width or thickness. i.e. it is an engineering standard measurement for oil seals.

The previous replies in this thread have given you most of the clues on what to do to replace it but I've just done this job on the clutch push rod seal so here are a few tips.

The old seal has to be removed (duh). I’m sure there is a tool for this job but I didn’t have one and will probably never use one again, so I improvised.

Depending on its condition the old seal could fall out or be very difficult to remove. If it was installed with a sealer then it probably will be difficult to move. I removed mine by fashioning two 25cm, metal rods. I flattened the ends and then made a right angle bend 3mm from its flattened end.

The external face of the seal is molded on a metal disk like a washer to give the seal rigidity and strength. Remove the push rod. The 3mm bends can then be used as grappling hooks (wheel puller style) behind the face of the seal and I was able to pull the seal out.

Once its out you have to clean the rubbish out of the space you just removed it from. Use a suitable solvent to remove dirt and oil from the seal cavity. Old sealant may require you to use a scraper or fine brush but be careful not to scratch the seal seat in the cases. The cleaner the cases, the easier the new seal will seat in.

Sean is right. Clean (and polish) the push rod to remove any burrs, scratches or corrosion from the shaft.

When these are clean, you can apply a sealer which Yamaha sell or something like a Loctite sealer. I didn’t use a sealer and it sealed just fine.

When you put the new seal in you should use a suitable drift to press or tap the seal in into its seat. Make sure the drift is perpendicular to the seal and use light force. You do not want to bend the metal substrate of the seal. Check it as you go to see that it is going in evenly. If one side is high, tap it down lightly until it is even, before proceeding further.

I left the push rod in place, oiled the seal with engine oil, placed it over the push rod and pressed it to the seat in the case. I then put a metal washer on the push rod, pushed the washer down onto the face of the lightly seated seal and used a tube spanner as a drift to lightly tap the oil seal into its seat. Worked like a charm.

Don’t forget, the push rod seats into the convex face of a metal plunger (piston) in the slave cylinder and needs to have grease packing before you re-apply the slave cylinder assembly so that the top of the push rod does not press on bare metal. The manual doesn’t mention this.

Hope this helps.
 
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gleno, thank you very much for the instructions and explaination of the SDO term. I searched the internet looking for that reference. I called Bike Bandit and they didn't know.
I was guessing it meant Seal Diameter Oval hinting that it may need to be crushed between case halves. :icon_rolleyes: It wasn't until I found another SDO type seal being used on a swing arm that I figured I was wrong.
Anyway, thanks again for taking the time to help me. Thanks also to 4gasem and one2dmax

Jim
 
Yep, no problem at all. It's harder to get them out then back in though. Seal is built like a wheel bearing seal. Simple design that has been effective for 50 or more years.

You will want to make sure your push rod is clean and burr free. Just polish it up a bit before you put it back in.

Sean Morley


Sean,Is there no chance of the ball bearing falling into the motor with the push rod pulled out?Rolling towards the left side while on the side stand.
 
Sean,Is there no chance of the ball bearing falling into the motor with the push rod pulled out?Rolling towards the left side while on the side stand facing East with the wind out of the West and the sun out of the South.


:whistlin:


:rofl_200:
 
the ball bearing will either fall out the block if you remove the slave or you have to remove the outer clutch plate and the number 20 push rod extension to gain access to the ball. If it was on it's side stand it will not roll that direction.

Sean
 
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