sump pan access

[intruder]

Hi Guys, just been reading a vmax1200 manual and it states that the con rods and bearings can be accessed by removing the sump ?? can this be done without taking the engine out? or am I bound by nature to lift this big heavy bastard out on my own with only my dog and a couple of elastic bands to help??

cheers.

 

[TK3333]

The pan will come off with the engine in the frame.

 

[Fire-medic]

Empty the gas tank, the carbs, and remove the battery. You should also figure out a way to keep the coolant in the engine, maybe drain the overflow tank, pinch-off the line to it, too.

Since the master cylinders have vents to the atmosphere in their caps, putting the bike on its side might cause brake fluid leaks, which being corrosive, could ruin your paint. Maybe a couple layers of duct tape around the reservoirs' caps, where the vents are?

 

[one2dmax]

The pan can come off and access to the rod caps. You can remove and check the bearings on the rods but the rods can not be removed. The main bearings cannot be checked without opening up the engine

 

[intruder]

Hi again guys,
Got the chance to buy a vmax 1200 motor from a guy in scotland, he only wants £400 and says its good with 30000 miles, however he doesnt know if its a full power version or not, my question is ... does it matter? can I just fit my vboost carbs on it and its done or is there other stuff involved.
cheers

 

[one2dmax]

The base engine you would be getting will be the same. The "full power" was with Vboost vs without.

 

[intruder]

Does this mean a straight swap? or do I need to do something with the pickup coils as his is a 1988 FULL POWER and mine is a 1993 full power.

Also when I lay bike down (thanks for all the tips by the way) and get to the rod bearings , will I be able to remove and refit the shells ? can I push the piston far enough up to get the shell on the rod side aswell as the cap side?

Thanks for this info , just want to get some idea before I go ahead with it.

Thanks

 

[one2dmax]

You will need to swap the flywheel and pickup coil. The rest will be a straight swap. You don't need to check any bearing shells (and if you do there are more problems you have to deal with).

 

[intruder]

Thanks guys, I think 2d is a wise one , I think we all know , and 2d, that if the shells are shedding copper it means that the crank journals have already started to slim down and in need of major repair/change, so chucking in a working motor that is good has got to be the way forward, changing the fly wheel and pick ups seems like an easy job (if I can get it off ok) and for the price of a working engine for £400 seems like a no brainer.
I will get this job done and get the max back on the road, the alternative is to sell for parts and that would be a shame for a bike that I really like riding and have spent time giving it a facelift.
I will post a message when done.
Thanks chaps , chocks away!