Sync Troubles with Motion Pro

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bigmak

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I purchased a Motion Pro non-murcury model today to sync my carbs. I followed the instructions that came with it carefully. The first step is to syncroize the tool with the non-adjustable carb first, then adjust the others based on that. The only problem is, when I turn the bike on the fluid in the Motion Pro gets sucked straight to the top and I have to shut the bike off before it gets sucked into the engine. Am I doing something wrong here? All tubes are equal length, the restrictors are properly inserted (nearest the carb) and everything is hooked up properly, per the directions. There seems to be too much vaccume? Can anyone help?
 
I purchased a Motion Pro non-murcury model today to sync my carbs. I followed the instructions that came with it carefully. The first step is to syncroize the tool with the non-adjustable carb first, then adjust the others based on that. The only problem is, when I turn the bike on the fluid in the Motion Pro gets sucked straight to the top and I have to shut the bike off before it gets sucked into the engine. Am I doing something wrong here? All tubes are equal length, the restrictors are properly inserted (nearest the carb) and everything is hooked up properly, per the directions. There seems to be too much vaccume? Can anyone help?


The restrictors go into the hose by the mercury stick.You have it backwards.
 
It's a non-mercury model, and it states to open (counter clockwise) the tubes all the way, initially, to allow for maximum vacuum range. I did that, and still having problems.
 
So, I decided to do a little "tinkering" with it and hooked it up to my other three carbs. No extrememe vacuum problems, seemed fine. Then while I had the other three hooked up, I hooked up the main (unadjustable) carb as well, and the fluid went straight to the top. It appears that the main carb is carrying a high vacuum for some reason. Is there any way to adjust the idle on the main carb? I tried to lower the idle speed by using the main idle adjustment screw, and it didn't do anything, the bike stayed at the same idle. When I completely turn out the idle adjust screw, shouldn't the bike die-out? Or at least close to it? There seems to be slack in the line, not sure what the prob is here?
 
Is the rubber boot tight? Good shape? Is the throttle valve open quite a bit?
 
Another thing, is the choke plunger closed all the way?
 
The boot is tight and in good shape. The choke plunger is closed. The throttle valve doesn't appear to be open too far.
 
And loosening the idle thumb screw all the way doesn't lower it at all?
 
Here's a question for ya...... What it cause it to idle higher (or similar symptom) if the PAJ1 and Main Jet (in jet block) were accidentally swapped? For some reason, I keep thinking that I may have done that, but not sure.
 
It's like there is a leak somewhere. Try spraying some WD40 around the intake manifold and boot and see if the idle changes. Also, try taking a screwdriver and open/close the valve. Maybe dirt is binding the throttle pivot points. Other than that, try the Peashooter and clean the pilot circuit up. Maybe it's dirty.
 
Here's a question for ya...... What it cause it to idle higher (or similar symptom) if the PAJ1 and Main Jet (in jet block) were accidentally swapped? For some reason, I keep thinking that I may have done that, but not sure.

Yeah, since the stock PAJ1 is Mikuni 90 and the stock main is 152.5. That would increase that air jet by 25 sizes! Increasing pilot air that much would cause a big lean condition in that carb and excessive vacuum.

Shine a flashlight and use a magnifying glass to verify the size of PAJ1.
 
My apologies, I mean PAJ2. The one right behind the slide diaphram. So, if PAJ2 and the main jet (in the jet block) were swapped.
 
It shouldn't matter since PAJ2 is closed at idle. But, the coasting enricher that controls the flow of PAJ2 could be stuck open.
 
I'm pretty sure that isn't it because I just replaced all of the CE's last week.

though, I was just in the garage and I started the bike. the idle thumb screw is as low as it will go, and I can stick my finger in between the carbs and push down on the plate that controls the throttle valve and it will kill the engine (with a little pressure). Does that mean that my throttle plate needs adjusting, or can something be stuck in there?
 
I also sprayed all the joints/boots with WD40, no change in idle speed.
 
I'm pretty sure that isn't it because I just replaced all of the CE's last week.

though, I was just in the garage and I started the bike. the idle thumb screw is as low as it will go, and I can stick my finger in between the carbs and push down on the plate that controls the throttle valve and it will kill the engine (with a little pressure). Does that mean that my throttle plate needs adjusting, or can something be stuck in there?

Reset the thumb screw so it idles at 1000 rpms.

Have you tried turning the left side sync screw to see if you can balance the left two carbs?
 

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