I was reading in the Frequently asked ?'s in the Carb Bible and found someone going on about Dale Walker's stage 1 kit (which I have). They were saying that it quote 'richens the hell out of it'. That seems to be my case. my mileage is crap. Would it be a bad idea to put the stock mikuni main jets back in or not. I would still have the k and n filter and I definately do not want to loose the pipes I love the appearance and sound. I've been told that I should still get 35mpg + with these mains installed. I'm just not sure. Someone please let me know what you know (cause I don't know much):ummm:
What do you think?
- Thread starter TCHILDERS
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you first need to tell us your setup: Carbs, Filter, Airbox mods if any, Exhaust, ect... Current jet sizes, springs, spacers for the needles ect.....
Sean
Sean
stock carbs with dale's stage 1 kit ( 155 mains with one shim washer under needle, K&N Filter in the stock air box with center Y cover removed) dale's 4-2 full exhaust I'm at about 500 ft. elevation with low humidity during the majority of the riding season. I'm experiencing erradic idle (may need to try the shotgun carb cleaning method) I'm also getting about 25 mpg. I'm also getting back firing on left side during idle and from time to time when cruising (even up to 4000 rpm) (perhaps I need to adjust my fuel mixture screws) So my first question was "is this bit I heard about the Dale Walker richness epedemic truly an epedemic with the 155 mains on the shimmed stock needle. and if so should I put the old 152.5's back in?" I want the 35 +mpg real badly and I don't want to pump gas down the cylinders and lose compression.
What do you think?
What do you think?
I would remove the needle shims. Put the "Y" back on and make sure you floats are all set to 16 or 17 mm. Do the Peashooter to ensure pilot circuit is clean. Then, one at a time, adjust your mixture screws and make sure they all have an effect by turning them all the way in. If the engine tone doesn't change then more digging is needed. Slowly turn the mixture screw out until the engine recovers. Turn and additional 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Sync your carbs. Now, set idle for 2000 rpms. Make sure there isn't any popping.
Sync your carb, check plugs, make sure fuel filter is clean, air filter is clean.
Now, time for a test ride. Do the needle test.
1) Go 4th gear, 4000 rpms. Go WOT and at 6000 rpms close throttle a tad. If the bike speeds up then you're too rich.
2) Go 4th gear, 4000 rpms again. Go WOT and this time at 6K apply a bit of choke. If the bike speeds up you need to lower the needle.
lankeeyankee
Well-Known Member
I am in similiar conditions, High Humidity elevation avg. 900FT
I say put the Stock 152.5 Mikuni Main jets back in.
Install the Y back on.
Keep the needle shimmed. Stock needle?
I dont know about the springs, if they are stock tie 4 coils.
If your slides are drilled I would epoxy them and drill them to factory spec.
Pea Shoot the carbs.
Resynch
Ride.
How does it run from 7500 to redline? You won't gain mileage from decreasing main jet size unless you spend most of your time up there. Clean carbs, floats, needle position and mixture screws make biggest difference for mpg.
Well I'm back after a long weekend and here's what I did:
I Pulled the needles out and pulled the last whasher shim.
So now to the best of my knowledge, the carbs are completely stock except for the jets being 155's instead of 152.5's. I found in the process that the Fork for #2 Carb's choke was loose (it's set screw) so it probably wasn't closing all the way (or opening all the way). I tightened that. I also 'shot the shotgun' and then reassembled the bike and did the 'peashooter'. I then synched the carbs again. The only thing that Maleko suggested and I didn't do was check the floats. This is because I wasn't exactly sure how. I'm assuming that you can level the bike attach a hose and turn it on and see how high up the hoses the fuel goes against the side of the carbs. Is this correct? I'm really green to this sort of mechanic work, but I'm doing it and coming up with better results each time- Now the bike seems to be running a bit stronger, the only issues are that idle seems to float around a little (much more when it is colder). I also have a difficult time adjusting the idle with the thumb screw, it doesn't seem to do much. Also, when I was doing the part about individually turning all the fuel mixture screws in and then back out until the bike picks up. I DIDN'T see any difference on #1 and #3 carbs when they were all the way in. #2 and #4 recovered at about 2.25 turns out. I left them at 2.5 turns and made #1 and #3 match (2.5 turns as well). What's the deal with this fuel mixture screw closed with no effect? Just seeking more guidance in this ongoing saga. (looking for a happily everafter).
Thanks,
Travis
I Pulled the needles out and pulled the last whasher shim.
So now to the best of my knowledge, the carbs are completely stock except for the jets being 155's instead of 152.5's. I found in the process that the Fork for #2 Carb's choke was loose (it's set screw) so it probably wasn't closing all the way (or opening all the way). I tightened that. I also 'shot the shotgun' and then reassembled the bike and did the 'peashooter'. I then synched the carbs again. The only thing that Maleko suggested and I didn't do was check the floats. This is because I wasn't exactly sure how. I'm assuming that you can level the bike attach a hose and turn it on and see how high up the hoses the fuel goes against the side of the carbs. Is this correct? I'm really green to this sort of mechanic work, but I'm doing it and coming up with better results each time- Now the bike seems to be running a bit stronger, the only issues are that idle seems to float around a little (much more when it is colder). I also have a difficult time adjusting the idle with the thumb screw, it doesn't seem to do much. Also, when I was doing the part about individually turning all the fuel mixture screws in and then back out until the bike picks up. I DIDN'T see any difference on #1 and #3 carbs when they were all the way in. #2 and #4 recovered at about 2.25 turns out. I left them at 2.5 turns and made #1 and #3 match (2.5 turns as well). What's the deal with this fuel mixture screw closed with no effect? Just seeking more guidance in this ongoing saga. (looking for a happily everafter).
Thanks,
Travis
Rayvin53
Well-Known Member
When the a/f mixture screws had no effect on my '92, it was because 3 of the 4 pilot fuel jets were completely plugged up. Tore the carbs apart, cleaned the pfj holes by soaking them in seafoam and pushing a very thin copper wire (just a strand from a larger wire) through and my problems were solved. I was hoping the shotgun and peashooter would be enough to avoid completely disassembling the carbs, but in my case it wasn't. I'm no pro with the Max, but that's what worked for me.
I'm not too excited about tearing the carbs apart. no offense to the prior poster but can anyone else concur with him. I want some sustantial motivation to do this. I'm also going to need some serious walk throughs on how to do it.
Thanks,
Travis
Thanks,
Travis
Travis, that's correct. Find a level place and put the bike on center stand. Get clear piece of hose from one end make a mark 17 mm from the end. Hook to drain hose, open drain screw and turn key on. Turn it on/off a couple of times every few seconds to make sure the bowl stays full. The measuring line are on the side of each carb just behind the diaphragm cover. Line the hose end with the 17 mm mark with this.
It sounds like your idle mixture is lean. When you blip the throttle does it take a bit for the tach to settle at idle? Lean conditions get worse with heat. I'm not sure why the thumb screw isn't taking affect. Clockwise lowers the idle and counterclockwise should raise the rpms. Take a small mirror and make sure the end of the screw is making contact with the throttle plate.
Are #1 and #3 running? What happens if you turn them out 5-6 turns, any changes? If they are running then there are a couple of possibilities why the screws aren't having an affect. Float level is too high, throttle cables are binding, dirty pilot circuit, out of sync, tick-over is set too high, intake leak.
It's definitely a possibility. I would check everything else first before digging into the float bowls. You have gotten this far so I have no doubt you can get the PFJ's out of the jet block to clean. No worries, we can walk you through it. I can always call you too...my dime....
richwrench
Well-Known Member
Vmax carbs are a breeze to pull off compared to other street bikes. My '86 Shadow kicked my azz when I had to pull the carbs so I was hesitant to pull the carbs on my Max. When I finally did it, it only took 20 minutes & I was in no rush. Then you KNOW the floats are right, bowls are clean, circuits are clear, etc. Well worth the little effort it takes, IMO.
Rayvin53
Well-Known Member
I'll second that on the relative ease of pulling the carbs off the Max compared to most bikes I've had, my current Magna included. Another piece of cake is the carb sync--on the Magna I've got to screw adapters into the intake manifolds and use a 90 degree long reach screwdriver tool to adjust them and a 'd' shaped bit on a socket to adjust the a/f mixture. It's a good bike for a DIY'er.
Thanks a bunch for the replies and encouragement. My wife's birthday is in two days, so I'm going to lay low on the attention I give my bike this week. I do think the next step is to check the floats and give those jets a thorough cleaning. I'll reply to this post again when I'm in need of more help or opinions to get the ball rolling again. Thanks again.
Birthday's over and I just got 27 mpg on the last tank. Still not good enough! I'm going to try to check the float levels this weekend. Just a tripple check to make sure I have this right:
1. Level the bike
2. Attach clear hose to drain hose
3. Open drain screw a little
4. Hold hose up against side of carb with the float line scribed on it
5. Turn on the fuel pump
6. Cycle switch as needed to maintain fuel level in hose
7. Check to see if level of fuel in hose matches line on carb
Is this right, cause this is what I plan to do! Let me know if I'm setting up for failure (or a face full of gas).
1. Level the bike
2. Attach clear hose to drain hose
3. Open drain screw a little
4. Hold hose up against side of carb with the float line scribed on it
5. Turn on the fuel pump
6. Cycle switch as needed to maintain fuel level in hose
7. Check to see if level of fuel in hose matches line on carb
Is this right, cause this is what I plan to do! Let me know if I'm setting up for failure (or a face full of gas).
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