VBoost/TBoost help

huskyman510 · May 16, 2014

I have an issue with my boost, never had an issue before,switch on at 3k and 6k worked fine. It then stopped whirring at key turn but still worked when running.
then 2 rides later nothing at all.
Whats the first few things I should look at?
I decided to pull carbs out to clean,installed cops with resistors and checked all conections whilst in there also fitted a new tboost switch as the old felt a bit loose.
Fired it up again still nothing.....suggestions please?
Loved my boost now Im sad :tantrum:

VMAX1260 · May 16, 2014

huskyman510 said:
I have an issue with my boost, never had an issue before,switch on at 3k and 6k worked fine. It then stopped whirring at key turn but still worked when running.
then 2 rides later nothing at all.
Whats the first few things I should look at?
I decided to pull carbs out to clean,installed cops with resistors and checked all conections whilst in there also fitted a new tboost switch as the old felt a bit loose.
Fired it up again still nothing.....suggestions please?
Loved my boost now Im sad :tantrum:

switch it to open at 3000 rpm. neutural gear . whith your bike stoped while you rev up put your eyes on the carbs betwwen the cylinders. do you see the boost butterflies opening ? start with that

huskyman510 · May 16, 2014

VMAX1260 said:
switch it to open at 3000 rpm. neutural gear . whith your bike stoped while you rev up put your eyes on the carbs betwwen the cylinders. do you see the boost butterflies opening ? start with that

Done that, and no nothing opening

Mr. Max · May 16, 2014

Have you read this thread?

VMAX1260 · May 16, 2014

huskyman510 said:
Done that, and no nothing opening

maybe your controller is going bad. in in the left scoop check the plugs un plug and plug everything maybe is something with the connections

huskyman510 · May 16, 2014

VMAX1260 said:
maybe your controller is going bad. in in the left scoop check the plugs un plug and plug everything maybe is something with the connections

Yes done that as well, I also read another thread about the solder in the black box gone bad? Im not sure how reliable the closed parts are to this system.

Is it possible to connect power some how to the wires to see if the servo is working without pulling the bike apart again?

Quite a lot of wires there that come from the vboost controller to the air scoop, tried testing with a multimeter and ignition on but Im not that clued on as a auto electrician so didnt know what was what, had some voltage going to some wires, unsure what that little round black box is and how to test that??

alorio1 · May 16, 2014

With the key on take the black box and flex it in your hands. If you can make it work by doing this the black box has a cold solder joint or broken strip on the electrical board. You can pop open the box and skin all the gell insulation off and reheat all the connections and maybe find a cold solder joint. You can test the servo with Malekos drawing, add 12v to these 2 pins, reverse polarity to make servo open and close.

huskyman510 · May 16, 2014

alorio1 said:
With the key on take the black box and flex it in your hands. If you can make it work by doing this the black box has a cold solder joint or broken strip on the electrical board. You can pop open the box and skin all the gell insulation off and reheat all the connections and maybe find a cold solder joint. You can test the servo with Malekos drawing, add 12v to these 2 pins, reverse polarity to make servo open and close.

Cool thanks a lot I will try that, is that diagram for a manual switch on/off by-passing the black box?

alorio1 · May 16, 2014

I'm not sure what switch is in the draqing but for now just disregard the switch and check the servo. Maleko Drew this quite a while back and I saved it, maybe he will chime in and tell us what switch that is.

dannymax · May 16, 2014

That is a spring loaded momentary switch that will allow you to open or close the vboost whenever you want to, or leave it partially open if you want to do that.

It eliminates the controller and tach influence.

huskyman510 · May 19, 2014

Ok tested the servo putting 12 v thru it, opens fine.
Checked voltage going through wires entering black box which was at 12+v
Checked circuitboard best I could, removed some of the gel and found 12v going through but only about 3.4v coming out??
Didnt see any solder joints broken or anything unusual.
What would this mean? is it a circuit board replacement or maybe wire a switch directly to bars to open manually.
Any thoughts???????????????

HyperPete · May 19, 2014

I believe I read in this thread, or possibly another, that after scraping off the gel you must heat up each of the connections with a soldering iron to re-melt the solder and repair the bad connection(s).

EDIT: Yep, this thread - here it is:

alorio1 said:
With the key on take the black box and flex it in your hands. If you can make it work by doing this the black box has a cold solder joint or broken strip on the electrical board. You can pop open the box and skin all the gell insulation off and reheat all the connections and maybe find a cold solder joint. You can test the servo with Malekos drawing, add 12v to these 2 pins, reverse polarity to make servo open and close.

Mr. Max · May 19, 2014

I'd take tboost off and start from there, does vboost work normally without it?

sdt354 · May 19, 2014

huskyman510 said:
Yes done that as well, I also read another thread about the solder in the black box gone bad? Im not sure how reliable the closed parts are to this system.

Is it possible to connect power some how to the wires to see if the servo is working without pulling the bike apart again?

Quite a lot of wires there that come from the vboost controller to the air scoop, tried testing with a multimeter and ignition on but Im not that clued on as a auto electrician so didnt know what was what, had some voltage going to some wires, unsure what that little round black box is and how to test that??

Yes, you can do it at the round plug connection. I had an issue with the servo when my bike has 12k on it. It had current but wouldn't move. I whacked it(not a recommended fix usually) and it's worked fine for the last 30k miles or so.
Steve-o

huskyman510 · May 19, 2014

Im not sure if Im prepared to re-solder the board, looks to easy to melt the stuff onto the wrong parts.
Have tried just running the regular vboost and still nothing. What triggers the test on key turn? its got me baffled, can you still buy the black boxes?

Might be time for big pipes and stge7 kit and full boost all the time

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