1988 vmax

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Pissed off Veteran

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Hello Gentlemen, Just bought a 1988 vmax with 14000 miles. I have had plenty of bikes even a Triumph Rocket and the big Harleys but anyway I was out for my first ride and my buddy was riding my other bike 2023 Triumph Trident 660. so I think I was hammering along I thought, all of sudden my buddy flies past me on the Trident. The vmax runs good no missing, idles good. Just seems like the vmax is missing something. I was kind of expecting alot more out of it like my Triumph Rocket. Or am I delusional LOL. Would appreciate anybodys thought on this.
 
I suspect the Trident has better aero for triple-digit speeds. It's smaller. The VMax, tuned well, (that could mean, 'stock') should be a low 11 second bike or a high, 10 second bike in the quarter-mile the latter being with someone who knows how to ride/launch.

Post a few pics of the bike, let's see what it's got on it.

I think the VMax needs some attention, its top-end is over 20 mph above your Triumph. It should be doing nearly in the quarter-mile what the Triumph will do topped-out. The article below says the Triumph is 12 sec. flat @111 mph, far-below the VMax.

https://motostatz.com/triumph-tride...o being a compact,a very respectable 127 mph.
1689903621667.png

It sounds to me like that VMax needs some clean-up. In other words, it shouldn't be anywhere close to being a contest.
 
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Hello Gentlemen, Just bought a 1988 vmax with 14000 miles. I have had plenty of bikes even a Triumph Rocket and the big Harleys but anyway I was out for my first ride and my buddy was riding my other bike 2023 Triumph Trident 660. so I think I was hammering along I thought, all of sudden my buddy flies past me on the Trident. The vmax runs good no missing, idles good. Just seems like the vmax is missing something. I was kind of expecting alot more out of it like my Triumph Rocket. Or am I delusional LOL. Would appreciate anybodys thought on this.
The Vmax should run with or outrun the Rocket.
 
Here's some pictures, I see the coil bracket is missing 2 bolts. let me know if you guys see something. How can I clean up the aluminum parts? I also put new spark plugs in and yes gapped them to .8mm and used anti seize and had to turn idle up a little to 1000 rpm was bout 800. Air filter looks good. Oil and filter will be here tomorrow. Seems like it's running better with new plugs though.
 

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Going to use mothers aluminum polish with polishing wheel. Ordered bolts on partzilla. Can I use a degreaser on swingarm area and rear of engine?
 
I use aircraft paint stripper to remove the clearcoat.

If you have a damaged part and you decide to repair it but wonder how to make it look better after the repair, try Martin Senour Alumiblast, made for cast aluminum parts.

1690032653123.jpeg

It's pretty-durable. This scoop was repaired and got the Alumiblast treatment.

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There's just so much little things wrong on the bike I don't know where to start.
 

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The v boost clicks when I turn key but stops and clicking starts again, valve cover leaking oil just a trace. Maybe some wd 40 on v boost linkage?
 
I took air box off and tested the slides, 3 seem good I could hear the air from diaphragm, 1 is just snapping back. I ordered a new diaphragm. Is that 1 reason why the bike didn't feel right?
 
I took air box off and tested the slides, 3 seem good I could hear the air from diaphragm, 1 is just snapping back. I ordered a new diaphragm. Is that 1 reason why the bike didn't feel right?
It may be that the diaphragm was not installed correctly also---you should get a whoosh sound when you lift it up and let it go-there is a small nub that needs to be installed in its correct slot
 
No whoosh, like the other 3, the one just snaps back, cylinder 4 I believe . Let me search forum for proper installation.
 
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If it's OEM, you have a security screw on each of the CV carburetor aluminum caps. If you don't have 'em, buy this set:

https://www.harborfreight.com/security-bit-set-with-case-100-piece-68457.html
1690051383494.png
You can use a 10" straight jaw Vise-Grip if you position it properly, to remove the one security screw on each CV carb cap, but for a sawbuck, the HFT security bit set is easier, and it won't be the one & only time you use the set.

If you put your location under your avatar, we'll know where you are. Someone by you may be able to help with things, or be available for rides, or have parts you may want/need. I know I miss CaptainKyle being within 'hailing distance' though we were a couple hundred miles apart, I still have access to Patmax, who probably has more parts than me.
 
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Somebody must have been in there, no security screws, then I pulled cover and diaphragm was folded, straighten it out put some grease around edge to hold diaphragm in and it's back together and working.
 
Good work!

I use water-soluble gel like KY Lube or a generic equivalent for holding O-rings or gaskets in place for re-assembly. A thin schmear will usually do the job.

How about the air bleed screw below the CV cap? Is there a blank-off aluminum plug in there, or can you see a screw head? This (below, second picture) is what the assembly looks like. If you don't see an aluminum plug blanking-off the hole, and a slotted head is visible, yes, someone's been in there.

VMax carbs disassembled diaphragm side.jpg

1690056176774.jpeg
 
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Somebody must have been in there, no security screws, then I pulled cover and diaphragm was folded, straighten it out put some grease around edge to hold diaphragm in and it's back together and working.
I would suggest replacing the screws with allen heads---these are jis requiring a Japanese philips head screwdriver.
 
The v boost clicks when I turn key but stops and clicking starts again, valve cover leaking oil just a trace. Maybe some wd 40 on v boost linkage?
WD40 is not intended as a long term lubricant so I wouldn't use or rely on it. The problem with oil on exposed areas is that it is good at collecting dirt so if you have to use it do so sparingly and wipe off any excess.

I took air box off and tested the slides, 3 seem good I could hear the air from diaphragm, 1 is just snapping back. I ordered a new diaphragm. Is that 1 reason why the bike didn't feel right?
Somebody must have been in there, no security screws, then I pulled cover and diaphragm was folded, straighten it out put some grease around edge to hold diaphragm in and it's back together and working.
I know I'm a cracked record but I can't stress enough the importance of diagnosing a fault before committing to a course of action...at least you have a spare diaphragm.
The diaphragms do not need any lubricant to retain them. If they have been out in the air for some time I have read, but never tried, that a soak in petrol will bring them back to size. Rather than a petroleum based grease use a silicon one as that is less likely to attack the rubber.

I would suggest replacing the screws with allen heads---these are jis requiring a Japanese philips head screwdriver.
Fair comment if you intend to keep the bike long term but otherwise some JIS screwdrivers or bits would be a cheaper investment?

There's just so much little things wrong on the bike I don't know where to start.
It is 38 years old so perhaps that could be expected?
If you don't have a copy of the Service Manual then I suggest you acquire one. Work through section 2 - Periodic inspection and adjustments and don't assume the PO has done any of it.
This will ensure that your bike is in the best condition it can be. It will familiarise you with it and also add 'to do' jobs to those you already have identified.
I would start by making a list of what you want to do and then prioritise the work. Helpful hint - #1 should be working through the periodical inspections and adjustments. I would also run some carb and engine cleaner through.

There are company's who will match paint (yours should be Apple Red Candy (with Black Air intake Colour, Dark Grey #1 Air intake Colour, Grey Metallic Panel colour, Champagne Rocker Cover colour, Silver Swing arm colour) - an internet search should bring up results.
 
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