Charging issue

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I already figured it out from the manual...I didn't zero my OHM meter....duh...> Stator is good; within spec....

When all else has failed read the instruction is always a good policy! ☹

Can't recall reading of a stator with high resistance, the usual problem is it going open circuit.
 
When all else has failed read the instruction is always a good policy! ☹

Can't recall reading of a stator with high resistance, the usual problem is it going open circuit.
I'm a male...I only read the manual or ask for directions in extreme circumstances...lol. It was the battery too. I put a new one in (Odyssey PC680) and rode all day yesterday without any issues.
 
I'm a male...I only read the manual or ask for directions in extreme circumstances...lol. It was the battery too. I put a new one in (Odyssey PC680) and rode all day yesterday without any issues.

Yep, extreme problems sometimes call for extreme measures to be taken. 🤯

Now that you have mastered your meter it would be worthwhile checking the charging voltage just to ensure that it is working as intended.
You should get 14 v @5K.
 
The air-cooled inline-4 Suzukis were well-known for poor stators. It was one of those things, "don't tour on your Suzuki without a spare stator, and the means to change it out!" I read on Gateway Pundit where the owner of Ricks Motorsports Electric bought a new yacht with the profits from servicing all those air-cooled Suzuki inline-4's for replacement stators, here's a pic.

View attachment 78754
yacht pic © fire-medic


Guess where I got my new Stator for my Suzuki..?.... :oops: :mad: 🤣 🤦‍♂️



T$
 
Rick's has standard output and high-output stators for many bikes, and the R/R's too.

Eastern Beaver has lots of good products, like those above (stators & R/R's) and fuse boxes if you want to add accessories safely.
 
Eastern Beaver has lots of good products, like those above (stators & R/R's) and fuse boxes if you want to add accessories safely.

+1 on Eastern Beaver. I had their H4 kit on my '89. I just visited the site again and happy they have the old style electrical connectors. My original site/source I used closed down. They also have the round Vboost motor connectors. Nice.

Mark
 
+1 on Eastern Beaver. I had their H4 kit on my '89. I just visited the site again and happy they have the old style electrical connectors. My original site/source I used closed down. They also have the round Vboost motor connectors. Nice.

Mark
I have plenty of ALL of the connectors too! Not sure what they charge so will have to check to make sure i'm competitive lol.
 

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I have plenty of ALL of the connectors too! Not sure what they charge so will have to check to make sure i'm competitive lol.
Lol good to know! I was thinking these for connectors and wasn't sure if you had them?

1628647410546.png
 
The plated ones may be more-resistant to corrosion, try a good car stereo shop, or online.
 
yes, I have all the sizes found on our bike (.110, .250, .3something lol). Plus some not normally found on these bikes.
 

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Going to circle back on this thread...my buddy says before we went out riding; "If your battery is dead in the bike and your still riding it, that's a sign your charger parts are working"...is that right?
 
In my experience, a bike with an electronic ignition needs a battery to work. Without the battery, the voltage especially at low rpm's is insufficient to power the ignition. Electronics need a stable source of power to work. Old bikes with points, and bikes with magnetos can run on a dead battery. Of course, once the rpm's die and the system isn't providing sufficient voltage to fire the plugs, it stops.
 
In my experience, a bike with an electronic ignition needs a battery to work. Without the battery, the voltage especially at low rpm's is insufficient to power the ignition. Electronics need a stable source of power to work. Old bikes with points, and bikes with magnetos can run on a dead battery. Of course, once the rpm's die and the system isn't providing sufficient voltage to fire the plugs, it stops.
Ok, so provided the connections are good and clean, you have a running bike even if the battery is dead as long as the voltage runs through the "charging parts"...yeah? So the theory is right? At least in the case of old bikes...which is what I have and what I grew up on and what I love to ride...:)
 
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The purpose of the battery is to provide a reserve of electrickery when the alternator can't supply the demand of the system.
As Mr Medic says this may well be at low revs when you have lights, indicators, cooling fan etc. active.

If your bike runs without a functioning battery then all will be well in the world...unless you don't have a kickstart in which case bump starting a Max would be a right p.i.t.a.
 
I would tend to agree. The battery is mainly there for the starter motor and supply additional power for headlamp at low rpm.

Unless I'm my memory is failing, I'm certain of seeing old footage of motorcycle race starts that show the bikes all lined up, the racers running up to them, then pushing them to bump start and then leaping on to them, presumably done as there was no battery/starter or kickstart (to save weight).
 
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