Fuel tank removal for lowering link install

VMAX  Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

ShawnD

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
May 7, 2017
Messages
510
Reaction score
103
Location
Goldsboro NC
Service manual says the tank has to come out to get to the shock/linkage. I'm wondering if anybody has found a way around that. I want the bike lowered but I may go the seat-shaving route if the tank has to come out.
 
Service manual says the tank has to come out to get to the shock/linkage. I'm wondering if anybody has found a way around that. I want the bike lowered but I may go the seat-shaving route if the tank has to come out.

I've never done it, it can be done though because I know several people that did.

It's a PITA because the space you have to work in is so tight. I remember someone commenting something like "I had a real hard time because I have bones in my hands and arms". :)

If you just need to be a bit more closer to the ground I'd suggest the cut seat to start, I think Sean can provide you with one of those. That way you won't effect your cornering clearance......unless that doesn't concern you.
 
I'm too old to be that concerned about cornering anymore :D And yeah, the seat seems so much easier to deal with.

Also, if you go 2" you will have to shorten your kickstand, Not Sure about 1'
 
Yeah, I saw that one yesterday. They don't specifically state removing the tank but 4-5 hours seems like that is implied. The only reason I would prefer using the lowering link instead of going the easier route with a cut down seat is that distance from seat to footpegs is perfect. I've got rearsets, in the lowest & most rearward position. Cutting the seat will make that distance more compressed, unlike using the link.
 
I have a Corbin seat. My previous seat had 1 inch removed from it. I can have my feet a little bit lower on the ground than I could with the cut down seat. The secret to the Corbin is the front of the seat is narrower than the stock seat. Now....if someone could cut a stock seat.... and make it more narrow in the front.....that would be the ticket.
 
Yeah, I saw that one yesterday. They don't specifically state removing the tank but 4-5 hours seems like that is implied. The only reason I would prefer using the lowering link instead of going the easier route with a cut down seat is that distance from seat to footpegs is perfect. I've got rearsets, in the lowest & most rearward position. Cutting the seat will make that distance more compressed, unlike using the link.

I gotcha, makes sense
 
The secret to the Corbin is the front of the seat is narrower than the stock seat. Now....if someone could cut a stock seat.... and make it more narrow in the front.....that would be the ticket.

Is it just the foam that's narrow or the seat pan...or both? If it's the pan, not much we can do to the stock seat pan. Think you can attach a top down view of your Corbin?
 
Here you go.
 

Attachments

  • 20191017_152401.jpg
    20191017_152401.jpg
    100.6 KB · Views: 53
  • 20191017_152408.jpg
    20191017_152408.jpg
    95.3 KB · Views: 50
  • 20191017_152457.jpg
    20191017_152457.jpg
    92 KB · Views: 52
It looks like Corbins pan is slightly narrower than stock but they also cut their foam quite a bit more at the front of the seat, the hour-glass kind of shape looks dished out more.
 
I R&Red the shock on my Gen2 to have it revalved by Traxxion Dynamics. (The stock damping rates were too soft, especially rebound damping.) The tank didn't need to come out.

If I recall correctly, I think I raised the rear of the bike using a stand, then put a head-lift stand on the front end to keep it stable. (Basically the pin goes in the bottom of the triple tree instead of lifting from under the fork tubes.) Then I put a jack under the frame as far back as possible, raised the bike a little higher, removed the rear stand, then put a couple of jack stands under the frame, and removed the jack. The swingarm is then airborne without any load on it so the shock can be unbolted. The shock comes out the bottom without too much trouble.
 
What's the deal with the flip piece on the seat? I removed the spring part with the 2 bolts but the plate holding the end of the spring prevents pulling the rest of it off the seat...what gives? Nevermind, found the retaining clips.
 
Last edited:
I installed a lowering link and didnt have to remove the tank.

all you need is a few universal joint sockets and bits.

the 1/4 drive work better since they are smaller overall.

this was about a 30 minute job.
 
I ran across this thread and thought I would add what I had done to get my ride height Lower.

Back in 2015 when I had my 2014 vmax, I removed just the seat portion, that we sit on, turned it over, removed the Staples holding the Seat Pad on, removed that seat pad and re-installed the plastic seat frame back onto the bike. For me..... it worked great, it got my seat height down about 3 inches lower, my feet were flat on the ground when sitting on the bike too ( 5'10" / 30" inseam). It looked a little odd But, was quite comfortable and was a Free way to Significantly lower my ride height on the bike.

*I will attach a picture of that 2014 bike with the Seat Pad removed, give you an idea of what it looked like. It was actually no more uncomfortable sitting on the plastic seat frame while riding than sitting of the stock seat pad.

(I will be doing the same thing to this new 2017 vmax that I just bought, as well)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20160223_134912.jpg
    IMG_20160223_134912.jpg
    170.9 KB · Views: 57
I R&Red the shock on my Gen2 to have it revalved by Traxxion Dynamics. (The stock damping rates were too soft, especially rebound damping.) The tank didn't need to come out.

If I recall correctly, I think I raised the rear of the bike using a stand, then put a head-lift stand on the front end to keep it stable. (Basically the pin goes in the bottom of the triple tree instead of lifting from under the fork tubes.) Then I put a jack under the frame as far back as possible, raised the bike a little higher, removed the rear stand, then put a couple of jack stands under the frame, and removed the jack. The swingarm is then airborne without any load on it so the shock can be unbolted. The shock comes out the bottom without too much trouble.

I love when I'm doing a project again and I can't remember how exactly I did it, so I search on Google and I found a post I made about the last time I did the project, and it reminds me what I need to do.

Just pulled my shock to have it re-revalved.
 
Here's one lowered 5" in the rear and significant amount in the front. Pic for easy viewing of the bottom side.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2430 - Copy.jpg
    IMG_2430 - Copy.jpg
    164.8 KB · Views: 43
Voodoo industries sells a 2 inch lowering link, I lowered my 2015 tank removal not neccessary, I installed lowering link when I swapped out exhaust, with the catalytic converter removed it was accessible
 

Attachments

  • 20191003_145859.jpg
    20191003_145859.jpg
    247.1 KB · Views: 47
Back
Top