:bang head: I am running a k&n a kerker and a dynojet stage 1 . Started with the recommended 170s too rich went down to the smallest mains in the kit 160s still too rich at WOT . it runs great but when I dyno it shows an A/F of like 10 and only makes 107 rwhp has anyone dynoed their bike with this setup with the stock jets . I don't want to run it too lean because its 45 minutes to the place I dyno my bike . Has anyone out there had this problem and if so what jets did you ultimately end up with to resolve it?
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DJ 160's is pretty close to Mikuni 150's which are one size smaller than stock. Are you sure your air filter is clean? Could you scan in your dyno sheet? What's the fuel curve look like from 4000-6500? From 7000-redline? What are your float levels? What clip are you needles set at?
I wouldn't worry too much about the dyno. See how it's running by looking closely at the sparkplugs.
Mark
#1098
I wouldn't worry too much about the dyno. See how it's running by looking closely at the sparkplugs.
Mark
#1098
it's almost impossible to get them too lean. I've run 145's before in my bored out bike.
Sean
Sean
raised the needle jets one position the k&n is clean going from 170s to 160s on the mains gave more low end on the dyno a/f ratio was in the 10s at WOT across the rpm range tried posting my dyno and keep getting bumped out of my sign in on the forum I will try again
oh yeah forgot to add I'm running 150 PAJs and was running way lean at 1/8 throttle thats why I changed needle position I haven't adjusted float levels because going down on the mains seemed to help I want to know how far down to go ?? V boost seems to be actuating all the way.
To tune the carbs, you first need to set your float levels. This has an affect over all the carb circuits. Then, set you main jet. You're looking for a nice clean plug and hard acceleration from 7500 rpms to red line. Look here on how to test for needle position and idle mixture settings.
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1024
Stock vboost is best unless running stage 7 and don't care about the midrange torque loss with open boost.
Mark
#1098
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=1024
Stock vboost is best unless running stage 7 and don't care about the midrange torque loss with open boost.
Mark
#1098
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I would check them before ripping the carbs out.They might not need adjusted.
I pulled a couple of plugs and they didn't look like a rich condition . I removed what would be a the tank on another bike or air box cover on a vmax and rode it after removing the y tube .I rode it with the air box hole where the y bube is wide open no "tank" at all .That might account for a leaner condition it did feel a little off on power up top over 6k . I haven't had a chance to put the "tank" back on and ride it. Do you think the difference in air flow might lean up the bike at WOT??? I'm basically at sea level and the bike should easily be able to handle the 160s. Any help greatly appreciated.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Are we talking Dyno jet 160's or mikuni 160's? I basically prefer to use the mikuni jets.I don't see why they had to make different jets with the same numbers.
I think that you should put everything back on and try some 155 possibly 157.5 mikuni mains.At sea level probably the 157.5's.Make sure it is in sync.
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
I would buy Shawn's flatslides.....just kidding. 
Mark
Mark
I may just get the stage 7 kit and yeah what the hell is up with mikuni and dynojet using different numbers for their jets mine are dynojets . After looking at the plugs I am going to try the 165's and check the plugs again . What do you guys think about removing the y tube?
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