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Something's missing here.. ;-)

Yeah Naughty, I'm not the brightest light on the Christmas tree when it comes to computers even after Brendan made it perfectly clear how to post the pictures. I'll eventually figure it out. I didn't get to ride the Max today with the vboost disconnected to see if that is my problem. Thursdays are my shopping day for groceries. Hopefully tomorrow.
 
hehehe, cool. I'll post a pic of mine later tonight as well. i used K&N Air Filter that is billed for a Buick Rendezvous

d03640bb-a133-fda7.jpg


Regards from my Taptalking Hercules Android
 
That's pretty tall and I bet not much clearance to the top of the faux tank! Looks good otherwise.

Sean
 
I'm in Chesapeake, Va and I have the Morley kit with a Kerker 4-1 comp baffle. I have twisted Sean's and Mark's ear a bunch getting mine right. My setup is:

Kerker 4-1
Morley air box
160 mains
PAJ-1 (90)
PAJ-2 (177.5)
stage 7 needles & springs 4th clip from the blunt end
slides drilled
Air correctors
A/F screws all are close to 3 turns out

I never could get the stock needles to act right when changing over from the needles to the mains. It was always lean no matter how large the mains were.

My plugs at WOT are a white-ish/very light grey-ish color. My bike runs really good (again BIG thanks to Sean and Mark). My cross-over points are seamless.

I wouldn't mind giving you a hand getting yours right. The max is the best when it's running good!

PM me if you need anything. I'm not the best, but between me and everyone here we will get you straight!

Shane
 
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That's pretty tall and I bet not much clearance to the top of the faux tank! Looks good otherwise.
Sean
doh.gif
fuggy fug fug. totally forgot 'bout the all important lid. you called it. back to the drawing board. LOL



My setup is:

Kerker 4-1
Morley air box
160 mains
PAJ-1 (90)
PAJ-2 (177.5)
stage needles & springs 4th clip from the blunt end
slides drilled
Air correctors
A/F screws all are close to 3 turns out

grimmie, did you post your setup up here, if not you should: OEM Carbs? Post your setup
 
I'm in Chesapeake, Va and I have the Morley kit with a Kerker 4-1 comp baffle. I have twisted Sean's and Mark's ear a bunch getting mine right. My setup is:

Kerker 4-1
Morley air box
160 mains
PAJ-1 (90)
PAJ-2 (177.5)
stage 7 needles & springs 4th clip from the blunt end
slides drilled
Air correctors
A/F screws all are close to 3 turns out

I never could get the stock needles to act right when changing over from the needles to the mains. It was always lean no matter how large the mains were.

My plugs at WOT are a white-ish/very light grey-ish color. My bike runs really good (again BIG thanks to Sean and Mark). My cross-over points are seamless.

I wouldn't mind giving you a hand getting yours right. The max is the best when it's running good!

PM me if you need anything. I'm not the best, but between me and everyone here we will get you straight!

Shane

Thanks Shane for replying to my PM so quickly. I think you are spot on and am going to give it a try. Yes, the floats have been set in addition to a good carb syn.
 
Special thanks to every one for all the great ideas. Sean and Shane both convinced me that I was lean at the transition from needle to main. Here's the final set up with no breaking up at the transition.

Stock PAJ 1's and 2's, air correctors
DJ 1 needles, 1st clip from blunt end with 1 shim
DJ 1/7 springs
DJ 170 mains
Idle screws out about 3 turns

The bike has great throttle response and pulls hard all the way to red line.
Max has his grove back and it's time to ride!
 
Hershell, so you went from 155s to 170s. Where were your needle clipped before? Or did you not alter the setting?
 
Hershell, so you went from 155s to 170s. Where were your needle clipped before? Or did you not alter the setting?

I went from 155 Mikuni's to 170 DJ's The DJ 170 is just a little smaller than a 160 mikuni but larger than the 155 mikuni's. It's what I had in my stash. I was trying to use the stock needles but decided to go back to the DJ stage 1's. I had good results from them before. They run a little rich so I could set them on the first clip with a shim. I started on the third clip and kept going toward the blunt end until the rpm's would wonder at curise which was the first clip and then added a shim. Works great for me.
 
thanks, i'm trying to hone in on my tune and just wanted to know where you started from so that i could compare/contrast with mine. i'm almost there, but i need to get in the ballpark (rather in the infield) so that i can minimize the number of sessions. local dynos want 70 bucks for three pulls/session. i'm hoping to be able to keep it below two sessions.

congrats on yours!!!!
 
thanks, i'm trying to hone in on my tune and just wanted to know where you started from so that i could compare/contrast with mine. i'm almost there, but i need to get in the ballpark (rather in the infield) so that i can minimize the number of sessions. local dynos want 70 bucks for three pulls. i'm hoping to be able to keep it below two.

congrats on yours!!!!

Good luck with your set up. I think you should try your lid out before going back to the drawing board if you haven't already. That thing looks great. Mine probably doesn't have the clearance it should have either but even so it will move more air than Max can take in. I too hope to Dyno mine as soon as finances will allow.
 

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