Please help...bought a VMax that's been sitting

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Glockamolie

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I bought an '02 VMax w/ 7900 miles on it at an auction. It's been sitting for maybe 1 year with no long term storage prep. Today was day one with it. Here's what I know: The right front carb will spit fuel out of the vent tube, and fuel comes up through the Main Jet Air Bleed when cranking. Mind you, I'm cranking with the plugs out, as I knew it had this problem going in. It was doing this out of the left front carb, but I had shot some carb cleaner down the MJAB, as I knew I could from the Shotgun cleaning method that I read up on. I'm not a motorcycle engine guy, nor have I messed with a carb in quite a while. However, I can read :banana: and follow instructions. I could only turn the engine over with the plugs out anyway, as the battery was dead, and my battery charger didn't have enough juice to turn the engine over with the plugs in. Can someone give me a few ideas? And yes, I bought it cheap enough that if I have to put quite a few bucks into it, I'm ok. I'd rather not if I can help it, though. Thanks in advance for your answers and offering up all of this good info!

Brandon
 
Hi Brandon,
I'd venture a guess that a float valve is blocked open in the carb that is spitting back. After fresh fuel is put into the tank and the battery issue solved, you might have to pull a float bowl and clean the needle and seat ( float valve).
You'll also have to sync the 4 carbs so they open together. Easy with the right tools. ( really).
Do the "shotgun" and add some Seafoam additive.
There are lots of guys here with lots of good info. You'll get plenty of info.:eusa_dance:

Lew
 
Last edited:
I bought an '02 VMax w/ 7900 miles on it at an auction. It's been sitting for maybe 1 year with no long term storage prep. Today was day one with it. Here's what I know: The right front carb will spit fuel out of the vent tube, and fuel comes up through the Main Jet Air Bleed when cranking. Mind you, I'm cranking with the plugs out, as I knew it had this problem going in. It was doing this out of the left front carb, but I had shot some carb cleaner down the MJAB, as I knew I could from the Shotgun cleaning method that I read up on. I'm not a motorcycle engine guy, nor have I messed with a carb in quite a while. However, I can read :banana: and follow instructions. I could only turn the engine over with the plugs out anyway, as the battery was dead, and my battery charger didn't have enough juice to turn the engine over with the plugs in. Can someone give me a few ideas? And yes, I bought it cheap enough that if I have to put quite a few bucks into it, I'm ok. I'd rather not if I can help it, though. Thanks in advance for your answers and offering up all of this good info!

Brandon

Starting from front to back;

- change brake fluid on front and back brakes and clutch

- change coolant

- remove carb bank and clean carbs - see VMF links above for how to's - after reinstall and sync carbs

- drain engine oil and put in new oil

- check/change spark plugs - good idea to check all electrical connections (for corrosion)

- check air filter - and change if necessary

- drain gas tank (drain plug at bottom of fuel tank) - check inside of tank for rust - purge fuel pump and than replace fuel filter

- check tires for cracks - if good, add air - front 38psi and back - 42psi

- change battery with good gel battery

That's pretty much the basics, there's some other things that can be done, but this is a good start

:cheers: Mike
 
Starting from front to back;

- change brake fluid on front and back brakes and clutch

- change coolant

- remove carb bank and clean carbs - see VMF links above for how to's - after reinstall and sync carbs

- drain engine oil and put in new oil

- check/change spark plugs - good idea to check all electrical connections (for corrosion)

- check air filter - and change if necessary

- drain gas tank (drain plug at bottom of fuel tank) - check inside of tank for rust - purge fuel pump and than replace fuel filter

- check tires for cracks - if good, add air - front 38psi and back - 42psi

- change battery with good gel battery

That's pretty much the basics, there's some other things that can be done, but this is a good start

:cheers: Mike

Hey, you just spent all of my cash! :biglaugh: Just interested in getting it to run first, but those items are all duly noted for the near future.
 
Hi Brandon,
I'd venture a guess that a float valve is blocked open in the carb that is spitting back. After fresh fuel is put into the tank and the battery issue solved, you might have to pull a float bowl and clean the needle and seat ( float valve).
You'll also have to sync the 4 carbs so they open together. Easy with the right tools. ( really).
Do the "shotgun" and add some Seafoam additive.
There are lots of guys here with lots of good info. You'll get plenty of info.:eusa_dance:

Lew

Yeah, that's along the lines I was thinking from doing more reading and looking at the carb diagrams. Should I just remove and clean the carbs, or keep trying things with them still on? I'll continue to read and learn, and more ideas are welcome. Are there any good carb folks that would do a mail-order clean and check? I'm not opposed to letting someone more experienced clean and check them.
 
Doing these basic things first, can save alot of headaches later. Not alot of cash, just alot of time, TLC needed

Good luck
Mike
 
Doing these basic things first, can save alot of headaches later. Not alot of cash, just alot of time, TLC needed

Good luck
Mike

I'm a big gearhead, but just usually play with cars. I just couldn't pass this one up, as I've always loved the VMax, and it went cheap. I needed a little project to work on, anyway. I know all about maintenance-intensive stuff. I've had a Jaguar and a BMW, and I'm married. :whistlin:

P.S. - That Jaguar/BMW line sounded....uhh....uppity. I'm talking 10-20 year old project cars. Talk about maintenance!
 
I just went through this with a '96 that was sitting for a long time - I would say pull the carbs & give them a good cleaning - don't necessarily need rebuild kits, just a thorough cleaning. Vmax carbs are so easy to remove ( compared to a 1986 Shadow anyway ) that once you do it you eliminate the carbs as a problem. Then you can check spark or airleaks or whatever if you still have an issue - just my 2 cents...
 
I just went through this with a '96 that was sitting for a long time - I would say pull the carbs & give them a good cleaning - don't necessarily need rebuild kits, just a thorough cleaning. Vmax carbs are so easy to remove ( compared to a 1986 Shadow anyway ) that once you do it you eliminate the carbs as a problem. Then you can check spark or airleaks or whatever if you still have an issue - just my 2 cents...

The more I read, that's how I'm thinking. So, I should pull them, clean them up, reinstall (and hope that it at least runs when I'm done), and then sync? Other than minor tuning, anything else I should consider? I've been reading up on setting the floats while they're off, etc.
 
The more I read, that's how I'm thinking. So, I should pull them, clean them up, reinstall (and hope that it at least runs when I'm done), and then sync? Other than minor tuning, anything else I should consider? I've been reading up on setting the floats while they're off, etc.

Take 'em off and completely clean them and set the floats... Then sync them all up...

Put a can of Seafoam in the tank and replace the fuel filter if you haven't already and you should be good to go!

Cheers
 
I will do that, and I'll report back as soon as I make some progress.

As a side note, I'm on several car forums and gun forums (I guess that was a given), and I know a good forum when I see one. This IS a very good forum! Glad to be welcomed here with lots of people eager to help.
 
Be sure to double check the carb joints - the rubber boots in the intake that the carbs push into - mine are dryrotted ,but I missed them the first time around...
 
From the condition of all the rubber on the rest of it, I don't think dry rot is going to be an issue, but I will check. Thanks!
 
Dump the old fuel - blow out the lines and drain the carbs and then replace it with a half can of seafoam and put on new filter, buy a good battery. Then tun the key on and let the bowls fill and let it sit over night. Next day drain the carbs and do it again. It may take a few days.....if your not picking up the fuel just add as little as possible. You want the seafoam in there at full strenght if ya can. Try tapping the fuel bowls with a handle of a screwdriver. Maybe the float will free it self and it may save you allot of time and trouble. Do the shotgun thing and try to clean the best you can with the seafoam and compressed air. If your satisfied and it's stop spitting - top up the tank and put in new plugs and after a cheap oil change - giver shit.

I think I'd try this first before pulling off the carbs. Either way good luck - keep us updated and congrats on the new project.

BUT - If it didn't work I'd pull off the carbs and send them to M/C who has an untrasound dunk tank. Good way of breaking up the crap without pulling them apart. - but it's up to you right. It may end up being a 50/50 shot as a solution to your problem.
 
I bought a 85 vmax in a similar condition a couple years ago. Take your time with the carbs and know that it might take more than one time to get them completely clean. I had mine off 3 times before I got it cleaned completely. But this was also due to a bad filter, unclean tank and had to replace a lot of the rubber parts. So learn from my mistake.
 

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