regulator 85 bypass

[oz1961]

Okay I am first sorry to ask about this elctrical problem when its been on the forum before but I cannot find the post

My 1985 vmax stopped going home at night last week and had nearly no power in the battery
I was able to start it with jump leads and slowly get to the yamaha bike shop with the lights off

They tested it and said everything is okay but I need a new battery
(its 2 years old)

so I had them fit it so I could get home

two days later riding to wiork in the dark it stopped again exactly the same

now Yamaha say its the regulator
it charges when not under load but with the headlight is on and sitting on 3000RPM it drains the battery
so they just wasted $150 of mine and wouldnt refund my money

I have ordered a new regulator on line

but till it arrives I am sure i read somewhere on a post how I can cut and join some wires that will bypass the regulator and charge the battery directly

but I cant find it now

did I read right?

looking forward to any help

 

[davesax36]

Red wire directly to positive pole of the battery with a 30A fuse.

 

[Bill Seward]

If you got a newer style regulator with a black wire, connect that to battery negative terminal directly. Solder all connection you need to make to extend these wires. If you have no black wire from the new regulator, connect a wire from one of the screws that mount thr regulator tonegative on battery.. The 85 grounds the regulator through the frame, not the best method as corrosion between the footpeg mount and frame creates resistance. Check the 3 wire plug from stator, too. Any corrosion here reduces stator output to regulator. There is a lot of info here on this problem, youshould be ok..

 

[The Beekeeper]

The way I read your question is that can you bypass the regulator altogether?.................The answer is no, the regulator/rectifier converts the ac power the stator creates to dc power and then trims it down to acceptable levels the battery can handle "13.5-14.5..........another possibility is that you could have a weak stator, and your regulator could still be good, like was stated, good troubleshooting guides available here........................Tom.

 

[silverado6x6]

I tried to manually bypass a bad regulator on a tow truck i owned when i was much younger, and foolish.
Had all the lights on, the amber warning lights as well with engine running, it was a 1961 Chevy, grounded the alternator regulator feed and did something else, what happened was the alternator put out over 100 volts ac into everything, burnt every single bulb in a heartbeat. Luckily it had points, condensor and a coil.
I would not want to even try to run straight from the stator to battery. Could fry all the electronics on bike.

Seek out the root of the problem, bad stator, bad regulator wiring, upgrade all of it, luckily changing the stator is easy.

 

[oz1961]

Red wire directly to positive pole of the battery with a 30A fuse.

which wire and from where do you mean ?

Its very interseting to me reading peoples advice and learning how to fix this problem

Thanks

 

[oz1961]

I tried to manually bypass a bad regulator on a tow truck i owned when i was much younger, and foolish.
Had all the lights on, the amber warning lights as well with engine running, it was a 1961 Chevy, grounded the alternator regulator feed and did something else, what happened was the alternator put out over 100 volts ac into everything, burnt every single bulb in a heartbeat. Luckily it had points, condensor and a coil.
I would not want to even try to run straight from the stator to battery. Could fry all the electronics on bike.

Seek out the root of the problem, bad stator, bad regulator wiring, upgrade all of it, luckily changing the stator is easy.

Thanks for your mail
Your mail made me laugh
I take your advice respectfully

 

[oz1961]

If you got a newer style regulator with a black wire, connect that to battery negative terminal directly. Solder all connection you need to make to extend these wires. If you have no black wire from the new regulator, connect a wire from one of the screws that mount thr regulator tonegative on battery.. The 85 grounds the regulator through the frame, not the best method as corrosion between the footpeg mount and frame creates resistance. Check the 3 wire plug from stator, too. Any corrosion here reduces stator output to regulator. There is a lot of info here on this problem, youshould be ok..

Thanks for your advice
I ordered the new regulator with the fins

I hope it arrives soon
I will check the stator this weekend

 

[oz1961]

Thanks to a members advice, I rang Yamaha directly and complained about the dealership and battery cost

They will give me my money back and I can keep the new battery (thanks for the great advice)

I have ordered a new regulator with the fins and will check all the connections and stator this weekend

Thanks
I will update ASAP

 

[davesax36]

Read this one.. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108 That'll give you a way better start than me trying to guess at stuff from memory.

 

[DMAN999]

Read this one.. http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108
That'll give you a way better start than me trying to guess at stuff from memory.

Great Guide !!!
I cut my RED (pos) R/R wire just below the connection and crimped in a 12 Ga. /30A inline fuse to the + side of the Battery and my Voltage went
from 12.6 - 12.8 @ Idle to 13.5 - 13.6 @ Idle and 13.5 - 13.6 @ 2500 to 14.3 - 14.5 @ 2500.
I was going to direct wire the Black (ground/neg) R/R Wire to the battery but after seeing those Numbers I didn't bother.
I posted a pdf version of RaWarrior's Charging Guide here for offline use:
ttp://www.vmaxforum.net/showpost.php?p=355480&postcount=91