Replaced R/R and...

[RagingMain]

I replaced the R/R cuz at 2k rpm it was reading 12.8-13.1 volts. Now the new one is reading the same. The stator resistance specs out ok, think I have a problem somewhere else. :bang head:
Please help if anyone can tell me what to check next. :ummm: Thanks
Cheers:cheers:
Oh yeah checked all the grounds, they appear to be ok

 

[Buster Hymen]

I replaced the R/R cuz at 2k rpm it was reading 12.8-13.1 volts. Now the new one is reading the same. The stator resistance specs out ok, think I have a problem somewhere else. :bang head:
Please help if anyone can tell me what to check next. :ummm: Thanks
Cheers:cheers:
Oh yeah checked all the grounds, they appear to be ok

Did you get an 86 R/R with no ground wire or a newer one that has a ground wire? If it does not have a ground wire, then it grounds out through the body to your bike frame. It has too be really clean to get a decent ground. It is better to make up a ground wire and run it to the - post of the battery and to one of the mounting bolts of the R/R. After that, behind the battery in the taped bundle of wires, there is a factory splice. You'll have to cut open the tape to find it, but once you do, solder this splice. This should get you to the correct voltage. Also recheck the connector where the R/R hooks into the stator. The contacts tabs must be clean. This can be a major voltage loss area. Many people, including myself, have cut off this connector and soldered the wires together.

 

[RagingMain]

Did you get an 86 R/R with no ground wire or a newer one that has a ground wire? If it does not have a ground wire, then it grounds out through the body to your bike frame. It has too be really clean to get a decent ground. It is better to make up a ground wire and run it to the - post of the battery and to one of the mounting bolts of the R/R. After that, behind the battery in the taped bundle of wires, there is a factory splice. You'll have to cut open the tape to find it, but once you do, solder this splice. This should get you to the correct voltage. Also recheck the connector where the R/R hooks into the stator. The contacts tabs must be clean. This can be a major voltage loss area. Many people, including myself, have cut off this connector and soldered the wires together.

I got a newer one, but did not run the ground to the battery, will do that next. I did solder the red wire crimp but I dont know how effective that was. Question, when you solder it, are you supposed to take the crimp apart and then solder it or just try to get the solder to flow into the crimp??? Not a very good electrician :whistlin:
When you are talking about the stator connection, are you talking about the connector to the stator or the connector to the R/R. The R/R is a brand new after market so I wouldnt think I would have to solder that one :confused2:
Also insted of soldering would it just be easier to hardwire them together???
Thanks, will get to work and see what is up

Cheers:cheers:

 

[davidon]

Connections, connections, connections....crimp and solder everything

 

[Buster Hymen]

I got a newer one, but did not run the ground to the battery, will do that next. I did solder the red wire crimp but I dont know how effective that was. Question, when you solder it, are you supposed to take the crimp apart and then solder it or just try to get the solder to flow into the crimp??? Not a very good electrician :whistlin:
When you are talking about the stator connection, are you talking about the connector to the stator or the connector to the R/R. The R/R is a brand new after market so I wouldnt think I would have to solder that one :confused2:
Also insted of soldering would it just be easier to hardwire them together???
Thanks, will get to work and see what is up

Cheers:cheers:

I left the crimp on and soldered the whole thing. I think I recrimped it too before I soldered it.
The connector I'm talking about is the connector that the 3 wires from the R/R plugged into.

 

[Bill Seward]

Solder everything!
If you do what I did (Run BOTH positive and negative directly to battery) the "Crimp Fix" becomes unnecessary.

The 3 white wires from the stator to the R/R unit can connect in any combination. It's 3-phase AC, and they can go any way...

Doing this upped my charging voltage from a piss-poor 12.5 (on a good day) to a solid, guaranteed to make you smile 14.5!!!!

IMHO, This should be the mod at the top of the list for those of us with the good taste to own vintage VMax's:whistlin: