Some more carb questions from the FNG...

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Ghost

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O.K., The more I go through this bike the more stuff I find that the previous owner has done. I could hear the vboost reset when I turned the key on but I just realized there is no cable hooked up so it's not opening or closing anything. That explains why I never felt the vboost at 6k everyone talks about. If I remove the K&N's from the Stage 7, the black slides are still operational. Aren't these supposed to be blocked off with aluminum sleeves to hold those carbs slides wide open full-time so all I should see is the butterflies? It seems to be running lean from what the plugs read, although it's not running hot. I can't figure out how it could be running lean with a Stage 7 kit and stock header with slip-ons. Maybe just changing the clip position on the needle to richen up the midrange?

I guess there's no one near PA to help me figure this thing out, huh?

:ummm:
 
I'm only a novice, but I think the vboost was disconnected because stage 7 runs the tubes open all the time. If I remember right the stage 7's I've seen don't even have the vboost in, just open tubes.
Sorry, but that all the help I can offer.
 
The black slides are the piston valves/diaphragms and aren't part of the vboost. To see the vboost valves, you'll need to remove the carbs. They're in the manifolds.

Mark
#1098
 
Take the h shaped chrome covers off of the manifolds and you should see the vboost or eliminator tubes between the manifolds.

I'm in pa but on the other end.
 
Take the h shaped chrome covers off of the manifolds and you should see the vboost or eliminator tubes between the manifolds.

I'm in pa but on the other end.


Yeah, I'm all about long rides but that's pushin' it!

O.K., I'll check the needles and sync the carbs this weekend. Each slide opens up at a different time when I roll on the throttle. What's the correct vacuum reading on these things?
 
O.K., The more I go through this bike the more stuff I find that the previous owner has done. I could hear the vboost reset when I turned the key on but I just realized there is no cable hooked up so it's not opening or closing anything. That explains why I never felt the vboost at 6k everyone talks about. If I remove the K&N's from the Stage 7, the black slides are still operational. Aren't these supposed to be blocked off with aluminum sleeves to hold those carbs slides wide open full-time so all I should see is the butterflies? It seems to be running lean from what the plugs read, although it's not running hot. I can't figure out how it could be running lean with a Stage 7 kit and stock header with slip-ons. Maybe just changing the clip position on the needle to richen up the midrange?

I guess there's no one near PA to help me figure this thing out, huh?

:ummm:

The 2 aluminum sleeves would be attached between the front and rear Carb bodies, one on the left, one on the right.

If they are not there, in there place will be a big H shaped piece if linkage with butterflies between the front and rear carbs on both sides.

To sync these carbs some people leave in the stock butterfly chambers so they can close them off to isolate each of the 4 carbs.


If possible, you can re-attach the Vboost cable and verify it's opening an closing the butterflies completely, (adjust cable so they go full open, full closed)

When you turn on your ignition you will hear the Vboost servo open, then close. (two whrrrr servo sounds).

If you still have the Vboost linkage, and get the wire reattached,
you can turn on your ignition and unplug the Vboost wires up by the motor during the first cycle of the boost. This will open your butterflies and bypass your Vboost thus completing the "Stage 7" concept.

When synching of the carbs is desired just plug in the wire and cycle the boost.
This will close the butterflies and isolate the carbs for synching. When done just unplug during vboost cycle open again.

Some people prefer the vboost intact with the stage 7, and others choose not, I don't know which is better.

Ok crew, did I get it right???
 
O.K., the sleeves are installed, there is no vboost components present except the servo that controls nothing, now.

So how do I sync them if they are all working as one unit?
 
You will need one of those Weber Flow meters that are used from the tops of the carbs. You can't use the stock vacuum ports because the gages would jump all over the place. Sean Morley or Shawn Kloker would know where to get the Weber.

Mark
#1098
 
Yup, that's it. You'll have to move it back/forth between the carbs unless you get two of them.

Mark
#1098
 
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