1st Gen V-Max Unexpected 1999 V-Max Owner

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Joined
Nov 19, 2023
Messages
6
Reaction score
3
Location
Largo, Florida
VMax Year
1999
My name is Robert and I am a daily motorcycle rider. I had been relying on my old 99 honda Magna to get me through the insane traffic in my area. But the old girl is developing some issues that I need to address before it goes from a fixable problem, to a replace situation. I like to take care of my things, but unfortunatly it is my only source of transportation as I'm starting things over again. I don't have money to throw around to fix it and I can't spend multiple days without it while I try to fix it my self.


20180525_192302.jpg

So I went on a panic hunt for something to drive, while I repaired the honda. But most of the bikes for sale were not appealing, I loved having a sports bike engine on a cruiser frame. Thanks to my brother, he informed me that I need to get out from the rock I was living under. He said Yamaha made something that I needed to look into. After some brief investigation into it, I was hooked on the idea of getting a vmax. This proved to be a difficult choice as they are not common and what was around was not in my budget range. But after a few weeks of nail biting riding around on the magna, I found an offer that was something I could buy. So after a 4 hour ride I got the tour, owner said it had marks performance mufflers, dinojet jet kit, upgraded fuel pump and filter, and a few others at 31k miles. Not great on the miles but it's 24 years old and his price wasn't that bad. Due to the fact that I was in desprate need of a new bike along with the long drive, I gave in. There was no way I could turn down this bike. With that being said I knew I was asking for trouble by not doing a detailed look at the bike to see what I was buying. But the first test would be immediate since it had a 4 hour ride home. I loved how this bike looked, handled, and the sound the exhaust made. It made it back without a hitch, and I actually got decent millage for the ride as well.


20231130_165622.jpg

So it has taken me back and forth to work for about a month now and I absolutly love this bike. Now that I am through the busy season at work, it was time to start digging into this bike and see exactly what I need to deal with. I had to be sure I have it reliable enough to use while the magna work starts. I have noticed a few dumb ass marks left on the bike that did have me a bit worried at first. Some one butchered the oil drain plug and the threads on the oil pan. I took a risk and got out the parts cannon and ordered a new oil plug. Threads are boogered on the pan but the new plug worked and even seated the crush washer without pulling the plug out. A replacement pan will be on the list for later. After that fun I noticed that the top lid to the air box was missing, along with the toolkit and toolkit lid. I guess it was just something the previous owner didn't care to keep. Another set for the list. Stumbled upon a cracked brake reservoir cap for the rear brakes. Replaced that immediately. During my second or so week of owning I learned about the vboost, and started to look into that. Due to my ignorance I had no idea this bike was suppose to pull around 6.5K RMP. So the honeymoon phase was officially over. It was time I went and did what I should have done when I first got it home. New plugs, oil, rad fluid, filter, gear oil, and fuel filter. Plugs I took out were the cheap lower rpm option, and were really old. I noticed plug for cylinder two was black compared to the other three. After I was done the bike became noticeable more powerfull, and it started to kick the vboost on sporadically. But sometimes it worked and sometimes it refused. Now that I was really paying attention to how the bike ran, I started to notice that it was sputtering while mantaining speed on my work commute. Read about the shotgun method for the carbs, and decided to skip it for now as I was not confortable messing with it. I had been warned as a teen not to mess with carbs unless you know what your doing. But I did have a carb sync kit and have used that a few time before.

20231118_084519.jpg
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I was glad that I had done this as it solved a few things. The idle was off from where it was suppose to be, and cylinder two was out of sync. After adjusting this I now had even more power, but most importantly the vboost system was working all the time. Wow, now this was getting impressive with how the bike performed. The hell with miss cleo, I can see speeding tickets in my future without her help.


s-l1600.jpg
On the topic of a ticket I did commit a blasphemy with the mufflers. I really liked how they sounded but damn was it loud. I would have no issues keeping it that way 20 years ago, but my tinnitus says hell no. I would like to go back to stock but considering what I make, that is going to be a long time in the comming. So I got my hands on baffle can inserts for cheap enough on fleabay. They have made a big difference on the db level but was still good on the sound. Since they insert before the muffler/resonator it didn't mess up the sound too much. Now as far as I can tell the only remaining problem is the studder. I am looking into a few different avenues of attack on that. I have never been keen on jet carb kits. Harder to cold start and a considerable loss of MPG for a few ponies, with the potential of causing other problems. Which is probably likely, due to the dumb ass level of what a previous owner did. I might save up and have someone rebuild the carbs with stock components. I am strongly considering this since I need to have the valves adjusted anyways since it just hit 32k miles. Normally I would do the work my self but it needs to be done and fast since I have nothing else to drive. The honda is staying parked, I am not risking an oh fuck moment because I used it when I shouldn't be. Today I had a coworker listen to me describe the studder and how it goes from ok to worse as the bike warms up. He suggested I look into the ignition coils as he has had a similar issue that was fixed with that. So I guess that will be the next step, and if that was the issue I have some breathing room on my budget and what needs to be done. All said the bike has been a little bit of work but nothing catastrophic. I started just looking for a temp replacement bike and instead I got something much better. I simply love this bike. The Magna and the V-Max will become my permanent bikes to keep regardless of what work needs to go into them. Looking forward to being a part of this communtiy, any help I might be able to provide, and anything else it might bring.
 
You'll find the people here are a wealth on knowledge for all things related to the VMAX. Plus they are wonderful people. Welcome to the club.

Doug
 
I think you are referring to a 'stutter?' As in, the bike carburetion stumbles a bit? Does it happen at the same rpm, when it happens?

I suspect your issues may clear-up if you replace the missing airbox cover. Does the airbox, without the cover, have four small individual air filters, what are commonly referred to as 'pods?' I do not see the vent hose from your right-side oil filler cap to the airbox, which would be strong evidence of your bike having the Dynojet Stage 7 jet kit, which includes four individual air filters/pods. You have a good full exhaust, it looks pretty-new, and to be stainless steel. Mark's exhausts are well-built, and a full exhaust with properly-re-jetted carbs and air filtration will make about 10 or 12 RWHP more than an OEM carburetor & exhaust. A V Max makes ~110 RWHP on average, so a good carb jetting kit and the full exhaust all done properly should net you a solid 10% increase over stock. It would be interesting to see what your jetting is. Stock is 152.5 Mikuni, steps are 2.5 apart, so the next-leaner Mikuni jets would be 150, and the next-leaner after that is 147.5. The V Max likes to run a bit lean, but the factory has them a bit rich, as it helps to protect the engine.

You should try a wet reading of the carburetors' float levels, as you may discover #2 is set a bit off, which will blacken a spark plug. Here's a copy of the service manual, read about doing a wet carburetor float level reading across all four carbs.

https://dn790009.ca.archive.org/0/i...ice-manual/yamahavmaxvmx12-service-manual.pdf
See 2-11 to 2-13 for carb synchronization. That's chapter 2, pages 11-13. Wet-setting float levels is on 5-9, that's chapter 5 page 9. I included the carburetor chapter below.



1701572222497.png

One of the things that causes issues in the carbs is that the pilot jets (one in each carb body, in the jet block) are the smallest removable orifices and they can become blocked when the bike is left sitting for a couple of months or longer, with ethanol gas. The V Max is designed to run on regular, and it does nothing but make you more-poor to use premium.

Don NOT buy the ebay all four carbs-in-one jet brass kits, they are a waste of $!

Some reading for you about carburetors and more:

https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/how-to-clean-the-fuel-pump.53192/#post-533777
https://www.vmaxforum.net/forums/general-v-max-1st-gen-discussions.31/
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/carb-kits-questions.52635/#post-528910
The search function in the upper-right is a great way to learn answers to questions you may have.

31K miles is not a lot of miles on these bikes, taken care-of, they can last much-longer. One thing to beware of, is to not over-rev the bike. It doesn't have a rev-limiter OEM, there are aftermarket ignition boxes which do have rev-limiters. They include two different DYNA systems, and the Ignitech box which can also control your VBoost, and much more, if you go big-bore, supercharged, turbocharged or NOS. Leave those last choices for someone else, let's get yours squared-away and operating as it should. A properly-operating V Max will surprise many riders, even those on modern sportbikes.
 
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I appreciate the responses, a lot of good info. In reply to fire-medic, the word I was looking for was sputter. It isn't very pronounced most of the time but it will get there the longer I run the bike. It isn't present at idle, and starts at 3k and continues to about 7k rpm. 7k and up it disapears. And by the way thanks for the heads up on no rev limiter, I have kept a close eye on that. It sounds just like a hollow misfire you get when a bike is running out of gas. And when it is spuddering I can feel the loss of power while driving. Every time I hear it I have to fight the urge to rev the engine to try to clear it out. I already spent enough time running it down the highway at 10k rpm with seaform in the gas, and that hasn't done anything.

20231203_165125.jpg
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Took a peak at the airbox again, and as you can see I just have one airfilter that covers for the 4 cabs. If this is less effective than the 4 pods you mentioned let me know as I would like to change that if that is the case. The airfilter appears to be very new and is nice and firm to seal with the top of the airbox. Coming up I will be taking my multimeter to the coils just to see where they are, Im pretty sure they will be fine. As CaptinKyle stated there definatly a need to take a look at the wires. A poor connection or tearing terminal fits pretty well with the sputtering issue I have. And makes sense that as the bike gets hotter the issue becomes worse. I will have to dig around to see if I even own a wire crimper for ignition wire. I have a few for coax, and RJ45 but I doubt ignition terminals. Any suggestions as to a good one? Also as far as picking out the terminals what do I need? I plan on reusing the boots and caps as long as they are in good condition. It seems the caps are getting harder to find at a reasonable price, since they are discontinued.

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From the little bit of free time I had I did see that a major recommendation was for a oil pressue guage. I guess the oil pump can have issues? So I put a order in with cycle one-off, seemed like a cool little company. At least this is better than the idiot gauges, and might save me in the long run. Oh before I forget as far as fuel I only run ethonol free gas, Im pretty sure the previous owner didn't bother and might have resulted in some gum build up. I will use that info provided to clean the fuel pump and anything else I can get at without too much trouble. Not sure when but I will be reading up on the carburetors and getting my self partially educated on it. I firmly believe the shotgun cleaning method will benefit the performance.
 
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Then 'shotgun' may work, but I just pull-off the carburetors, split 'em into two pairs, and remove the float bowls, to expose the jet block, two machine screws into the carb body to hold the jet block in-place. If you're careful, you may be able to remove the jet block without tearing the gasket. Use of a fine metal angled pick may allow the gasket to be separated from the jet block, without tearing. I use K&N gasket kits, use the search function for posts about those.

Removing the two brass jets in there, the smaller of the two is often the culprit, becoming plugged with deposits that best respond to a thin wire to clear them out. You should be able to see light thru the pilot jet, if you cannot, it needs a wire poke. The wire needs to be fine-enough to not gouge the inner surface of the jet it's being used to clear.

If the gas tank is rusty, it's a waste of time to do any carburetor work until the tank is clean, shiny-clean. Carb sealer kits are often half-assed "installed," by impatient people, and then you have the crap from the tank sealer kit, and the rust and gunk you had originally. That is a losing battle.

I'm not saying for-sure the pilot jet(s) is/are obstructed, but it's a common occurrence, especially if the carbs were 'wet' when the bike was abandoned to the garage for months/years. The bottom and lower sides of the gas tank should be shiny-metal clean, unless the tank was sealed.

A pin vise is a good tool to clean the pilot jet, they usually come with a set of different sizes of drill bits of very-fine sizes. You don't want to remove brass from the pilot jets, to clean them of foreign plugs of dried-up ethanol gasoline, rust particles from a rusty gas tank, and whatever gets by the gas filter.

Harbor Freight has tiny drill bits in a set. There are choices.
https://www.harborfreight.com/high-speed-steel-micro-drill-bit-set-30-piece-61526.html
1701650105728.png


1701650031782.png

https://www.harborfreight.com/carbide-rotary-micro-bit-assorted-set-20-piece-62379.html
A typical pin vise (below)
1701650210059.png
https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-H...MIrtnDgcT0ggMVsbJaBR2AcgaMEAQYByABEgKTjPD_BwE
 
I definitely will have to pick one up, i'd rather do as much of the work myself that I can. I live in a state that is full of stupid, so finding a good mechanic is very difficult. But ultimately that will have to wait until I can use some vacation time to work on it.

I came across something while at work today that I am currious about. The spin on oil filter adapter. I have to plead ignorance on this. And i'm curious if it is something I want to get. Is the purpose of this so I can fit a much larger oil filter on the bike? I am guessing at some point this might have been on my bike, I took a picture of the cross member.1000001288.jpg
 
I definitely will have to pick one up, i'd rather do as much of the work myself that I can. I live in a state that is full of stupid, so finding a good mechanic is very difficult. But ultimately that will have to wait until I can use some vacation time to work on it.

I came across something while at work today that I am currious about. The spin on oil filter adapter. I have to plead ignorance on this. And i'm curious if it is something I want to get. Is the purpose of this so I can fit a much larger oil filter on the bike? I am guessing at some point this might have been on my bike, I took a picture of the cross member.View attachment 92135
That looks like a K&N spin on filter that is on it.
 
Ohh, So if I'm understanding this correctly, the original setup used oil canisters instead of spin on filters?

1000001290.jpg1000001289.jpg

To be specific I was originally talking about adapters that are above. Maybe I am just misunderstanding it because those are just purely for aesthetic purposes?
 
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Yes, a canister, exposed filter element inside the canister.

In the mid-'90's they went to a spin-on sealed filter, and made a different frame cross-brace semi-circular to clear the spin-on filter.
 
So managed to start looking at coils and saw they didn't look like they were in the best of shape.

20231205_195315.jpg

A couple of posts said that surface cracks don't mean the coil is dead, its full of some kind of epoxy or something. So tested primary on the two in the picture and got 4.4 and 4.5 ohms and secondary showed 13.3 and 13.6. I can't seem to track down the specifications for these which are 12v CM11-61 coils. But I did find the supplementary service info.

ManualsLib - Makes it easy to find manuals online! - en-f9815ced31282a10a9d3a4198773aae1.jpg

So if I am to go by their info my primary's are out of spec. But I wanted to confirm with the fourm incase I missed something. Multimeter settings should be correct. And as far as the temp, I am almost bang on 68 degrees in the house. The coils have been inside for a number of hours. Anyways thanks again.

(Update) Haynes service manual showed up in the mail. According to specs for Ignition HT Coils 1990-2003 Primary 2.4 - 3 and secondary 10.5 - 15.8. So from that I guess its new coils for me.
 
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The original coils almost never go bad. The cracks can be sealed back up or left as is. Most of the time they just get corrosion that can be cleaned up in the connections. Or replace the coil wires and caps.
 
You'll find the people here are a wealth on knowledge for all things related to the VMAX. Plus they are wonderful people. Welcome to the club.

Doug
To "Fix it before it is broken" this is a very informative thread thank you. I did the opposite of you. I needed to work on my Vmax (rear ended) and got a Magna to ride. 87 Super, which I had one years ago and always liked. Anyway keep posting your adventures in cycle mechanics, I am learning from them. Thanks
 
To "Fix it before it is broken" this is a very informative thread thank you. I did the opposite of you. I needed to work on my Vmax (rear ended) and got a Magna to ride. 87 Super, which I had one years ago and always liked. Anyway keep posting your adventures in cycle mechanics, I am learning from them. Thanks
Ohh, and of course all the members with their advice. Invaluable info, fellas!!!
 
My name is Robert and I am a daily motorcycle rider. I had been relying on my old 99 honda Magna to get me through the insane traffic in my area. But the old girl is developing some issues that I need to address before it goes from a fixable problem, to a replace situation. I like to take care of my things, but unfortunatly it is my only source of transportation as I'm starting things over again. I don't have money to throw around to fix it and I can't spend multiple days without it while I try to fix it my self.


View attachment 92116

So I went on a panic hunt for something to drive, while I repaired the honda. But most of the bikes for sale were not appealing, I loved having a sports bike engine on a cruiser frame. Thanks to my brother, he informed me that I need to get out from the rock I was living under. He said Yamaha made something that I needed to look into. After some brief investigation into it, I was hooked on the idea of getting a vmax. This proved to be a difficult choice as they are not common and what was around was not in my budget range. But after a few weeks of nail biting riding around on the magna, I found an offer that was something I could buy. So after a 4 hour ride I got the tour, owner said it had marks performance mufflers, dinojet jet kit, upgraded fuel pump and filter, and a few others at 31k miles. Not great on the miles but it's 24 years old and his price wasn't that bad. Due to the fact that I was in desprate need of a new bike along with the long drive, I gave in. There was no way I could turn down this bike. With that being said I knew I was asking for trouble by not doing a detailed look at the bike to see what I was buying. But the first test would be immediate since it had a 4 hour ride home. I loved how this bike looked, handled, and the sound the exhaust made. It made it back without a hitch, and I actually got decent millage for the ride as well.


View attachment 92118

So it has taken me back and forth to work for about a month now and I absolutly love this bike. Now that I am through the busy season at work, it was time to start digging into this bike and see exactly what I need to deal with. I had to be sure I have it reliable enough to use while the magna work starts. I have noticed a few dumb ass marks left on the bike that did have me a bit worried at first. Some one butchered the oil drain plug and the threads on the oil pan. I took a risk and got out the parts cannon and ordered a new oil plug. Threads are boogered on the pan but the new plug worked and even seated the crush washer without pulling the plug out. A replacement pan will be on the list for later. After that fun I noticed that the top lid to the air box was missing, along with the toolkit and toolkit lid. I guess it was just something the previous owner didn't care to keep. Another set for the list. Stumbled upon a cracked brake reservoir cap for the rear brakes. Replaced that immediately. During my second or so week of owning I learned about the vboost, and started to look into that. Due to my ignorance I had no idea this bike was suppose to pull around 6.5K RMP. So the honeymoon phase was officially over. It was time I went and did what I should have done when I first got it home. New plugs, oil, rad fluid, filter, gear oil, and fuel filter. Plugs I took out were the cheap lower rpm option, and were really old. I noticed plug for cylinder two was black compared to the other three. After I was done the bike became noticeable more powerfull, and it started to kick the vboost on sporadically. But sometimes it worked and sometimes it refused. Now that I was really paying attention to how the bike ran, I started to notice that it was sputtering while mantaining speed on my work commute. Read about the shotgun method for the carbs, and decided to skip it for now as I was not confortable messing with it. I had been warned as a teen not to mess with carbs unless you know what your doing. But I did have a carb sync kit and have used that a few time before.

View attachment 92119
View attachment 92121

I was glad that I had done this as it solved a few things. The idle was off from where it was suppose to be, and cylinder two was out of sync. After adjusting this I now had even more power, but most importantly the vboost system was working all the time. Wow, now this was getting impressive with how the bike performed. The hell with miss cleo, I can see speeding tickets in my future without her help.


View attachment 92122
On the topic of a ticket I did commit a blasphemy with the mufflers. I really liked how they sounded but damn was it loud. I would have no issues keeping it that way 20 years ago, but my tinnitus says hell no. I would like to go back to stock but considering what I make, that is going to be a long time in the comming. So I got my hands on baffle can inserts for cheap enough on fleabay. They have made a big difference on the db level but was still good on the sound. Since they insert before the muffler/resonator it didn't mess up the sound too much. Now as far as I can tell the only remaining problem is the studder. I am looking into a few different avenues of attack on that. I have never been keen on jet carb kits. Harder to cold start and a considerable loss of MPG for a few ponies, with the potential of causing other problems. Which is probably likely, due to the dumb ass level of what a previous owner did. I might save up and have someone rebuild the carbs with stock components. I am strongly considering this since I need to have the valves adjusted anyways since it just hit 32k miles. Normally I would do the work my self but it needs to be done and fast since I have nothing else to drive. The honda is staying parked, I am not risking an oh fuck moment because I used it when I shouldn't be. Today I had a coworker listen to me describe the studder and how it goes from ok to worse as the bike warms up. He suggested I look into the ignition coils as he has had a similar issue that was fixed with that. So I guess that will be the next step, and if that was the issue I have some breathing room on my budget and what needs to be done. All said the bike has been a little bit of work but nothing catastrophic. I started just looking for a temp replacement bike and instead I got something much better. I simply love this bike. The Magna and the V-Max will become my permanent bikes to keep regardless of what work needs to go into them. Looking forward to being a part of this communtiy, any help I might be able to provide, and anything else it might bring.
Stage3 Dino works wonders for an engine, dont need to do pipe work , runs a little Rich off the go but ,hey can kill anything running rich , and the valve adjustment is the fist thing I suggest, only because I got mine at 12 k and put about 3 k on it and with everything done , it's the only thing left . Vacuum and valves. You know them 2 ,the rest sorts it's self out .
 
OK, I am ignorant as to the identity of the Stage 3 Dino, what is that, exactly?

Dynojet has a Stage 1 and a Stage 7, the Stage 7 is the more productive one, you can tune it to work with the VBoost left-alone and functioning. Yes the Stage 7 requires a good full exhaust.

Many members here have tried the Stage 1 and have not been happy with how it works, compared to the OEM set-up.

The Stage 1 directions: https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/1032/product/3713/

The Stage 7 directions: https://www.dynojet.com/amfile/file/download/file/1170/product/3785/

Sean Morley has the 'Morley's Muscle' kit, which is another well-proven intake set of mods.

Our bikes have a valve adjustment period of 26,000 miles, and members have put far-more miles on their bikes, or have bought used ones with more miles, and have found all valves within specs, when checked. If in doubt, refer to the factory service intervals.
 
The "dyno kit " stages are 1 least progressive to most as you go up in # . Dyno jet is just a particular company that has taken a stock bike and worked the carb in increments and documented for production of jets .I picked my bike up with the carbs in pieces, half the parts missing. Actually had to buy 3 sets to make 1 . Luckily the only carb body that must be original is the front left due to the choke bracket and after ultra sonically cleaning about 16 carbs . I managed to salvage the front left original. All the venture carbs will easily work ,parts are interchangeable with the exception of the front left body . Although if need be ,the venture style would have to have a cable mounted choke . With that said I'm by far no expert at carb jetting ,Luckily the previous owner had gotten the dino jet kits . It said stage 3 on it and comes with mains, secondaries and idol jet plus alot of the little brass bushings and seats . The instructions are completely comprehensive for anyone to do the work .the hardest part was my mindset on drilling out parts that are one shot deals. As far as I can tell you can always take away material but ,your not going to add.I still have a big box of carbs and pieces and if I remember the packaging for the stage 3 kit is with it . I will dig them out and take a snap shot for you . I do remember that it was said to place the cerclip x amount places up on the needle after drilling plugs to get to the factory jets. In which case the bike needs to have the carbs cleaned agin , so I will basically just strip ,dip and reassemble per dynojets instructions. Please don't hold me to this conversation as if I'm "telling you " you mentioned Sean Morley, I know the name via YouTube. He seems to have the knowledge of the engineers that Designed the monster. I am just giving my experience with it. To me a quad carb setup was a learning curve. I also needed all new vacuum boots for the slides and I found a Crack in a couple of the carb mounting boots. So I replaced them as well .
One thing I didn't do after installing the carbs was pluging the factory whole where the mains go. That could have been fatal. I had a friend back in the 90s do the same to his vmax , put about 3k on it after a stage somthing kit and found one cylinder scored. Ultimately one bank was sucking air.
Not good , after checking mine the first 100 Miles a little shot of either around the carbs determined I had that issue.
Those plugs are brass but I could never source any ,so I use a rubber tube with a brass screw to expand it to a nice fit .retesting showed no leaks and the bike ran alot better and cut the time in half of carb Synchronization.
I have the rebuild manual and it shows all the factory specs on adjustments for the bike but ,that's no good after a stage X kit .
I guess if learned anything about my bike is , #1 a carb that's dirty will only be cleaned by dipping and or Ultrasonically cleaned.
#2 plug them holes
Anyway, thankyou for the instruction sets , I will definitely take a look and when I pull my carbs I will snap shot the stage 3 specs. I know I have them ,that was like a golden ticket when looking at the box my bike came in .
 
There is no such thing as a Stage 3 jet kit for the Vmax. They do actually have Stage 3's for other bikes like the Yamaha Fazer/FZX. The S1 is junk. The S7 eliminates the vboost when done to full instruction and has pod filters. My kit is a hybrid of the S7 leaving the Vboost intact to keep the low and mid range power while still getting the full gains up top that the S7 does.

Other companies had jet kits too. Still none referred to them as a S3 kit.
 
There is no such thing as a Stage 3 jet kit for the Vmax. They do actually have Stage 3's for other bikes like the Yamaha Fazer/FZX. The S1 is junk. The S7 eliminates the vboost when done to full instruction and has pod filters. My kit is a hybrid of the S7 leaving the Vboost intact to keep the low and mid range power while still getting the full gains up top that the S7 does.

Other companies had jet kits too. Still none referred to them as a S3 kit.
 
I stand corrected, I apologize, looking at it it is a Stage 1 . Been 5 years since then.
 

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