Velocity Stacks

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BIGMO

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i saw somewhere it said that using velocity stacks, maybe 1 or 2" tall, inbetween the KN pods and carburators makes the bike run better? Anyone ever done this? Or heard of it? where did you get it?
Also if I have stage 7 kit I can never go back to stock right? How about stage 1 could i do that? Where can I get the DJ7011 Oriface that is show in the stage 7 kit instructions so that I can run vboost with stage 7. I bought the bike with stage 7 installed already so I dont have the oriface. Can i get them seperate? where does it go, in the crank vent tube connected from the oil dipstick (removed) to the puke can ... in the tube by the puke can?
 
I made my own. I had a friend get me some 2 inch copper pipe, cut into 3 inch sections. Then went to lowe's and bought no-hub flexible joints and used that to mount them to the tops of the carbs. Slid the filters onto the stacks and raised them so they just touched the top cover. Big difference......midrange rocks now. I have a strong 5th gear pull down to 2000 rpm. I also did the ignition advance circuit, wow!


i saw somewhere it said that using velocity stacks, maybe 1 or 2" tall, inbetween the KN pods and carburators makes the bike run better? Anyone ever done this? Or heard of it? where did you get it?
Also if I have stage 7 kit I can never go back to stock right? How about stage 1 could i do that? Where can I get the DJ7011 Oriface that is show in the stage 7 kit instructions so that I can run vboost with stage 7. I bought the bike with stage 7 installed already so I dont have the oriface. Can i get them seperate? where does it go, in the crank vent tube connected from the oil dipstick (removed) to the puke can ... in the tube by the puke can?
 
I also did the ignition advance circuit,

ok Mark whats the ignition advance circuit? Did you have to do because of the stacks? how was the seal at the carbs with that no hub connector? What about that DJ7011 oriface part. Is that all I need to run stage 7 and vboost with KN filter pods?
 
Ignition advance fools the ignitor into thinking there's more vacuum than there really is. So, the supplemental advance map come on sooner. I have mine set to 5* of advance right now. I can drop it to 3* or even shut it off. I got mine from Vmaxbitz.com. Jon gave me one to try and test for him. I really notice an increase of torque when I whack it to WOT at 3K - 6K...especially in 3rd and 4th gears.

So far, the seal of the boots is fine. I cut a no-hub in 1/2 and re-used the clamps.

I have Morley's oriface setup yet. You connect the filler breather and crank breather so that there's one hose. I hooked that to the stage 7 puke can and just plugged the unused hole. You'll definitely need the needles and air correctors to get it to work correctly.
 
I made my own. I had a friend get me some 2 inch copper pipe, cut into 3 inch sections. Then went to lowe's and bought no-hub flexible joints and used that to mount them to the tops of the carbs. Slid the filters onto the stacks and raised them so they just touched the top cover. Big difference......midrange rocks now. I have a strong 5th gear pull down to 2000 rpm. I also did the ignition advance circuit, wow!


Mark,How did you form the bell mouth on the top edges?

Dah,I reread your post.I understand now.You could even go longer up into the filter if wanted.They claim shorter stacks are for low end torque.Long stacks are for topend.I priced some at carb Parts Warehouse today.$74 a set, 30,50 or 70mm long.These clamp on and have the bell mouths on top.No filtering.
 
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I didn't. Steve Detamore told me they're not necessary. You could rip stock stacks off an airbox and use those but I wanted to keep my airbox intact for future testing. I'm going to ride it with ind. filters for a month and then go back to Morley's airbox and see if there's a difference.
 
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