What is the different between Regulator

[PDWeyand]

I know there was a change in styles in the r/r my is an 98 and has the fins on the unit. I can not seem to get any more charge out system than 13.6 volts 2500 rpm and at 1000 rpm I am not getting over 12.8. I spent the morning cleaning all the grounds and added a new ground to the frame and ran one from r/r to battery made no different in the gauge same readings. I know I can get the older r/r for cheaper than newer one, but is it really that big of a different. Or am I shooting myself in the butt by ordering an cheaper old style.

 

[Miles Long]

I know there was a change in styles in the r/r my is an 98 and has the fins on the unit. I can not seem to get any more charge out system than 13.6 volts 2500 rpm and at 1000 rpm I am not getting over 12.8. I spent the morning cleaning all the grounds and added a new ground to the frame and ran one from r/r to battery made no different in the gauge same readings. I know I can get the older r/r for cheaper than newer one, but is it really that big of a different. Or am I shooting myself in the butt by ordering an cheaper old style.

bold - do you mean that you also ran a positive wire from the RR to the battery? if so.........
I recently made the same wiring modifications that you have made - with one little added twist. I also left the original positive wire in place, the one that goes to the infamous "crimp"connection. I now get 14.3 volts at idle, an increase from about 13.8. Voltage does not decrease with rpm, as many people have noticed. I have the upgraded (finned) OEM R.R.
Have you checked your stator output, as well as the condition of the three-wire connection?
note - previous to doing the R.R. wiring mods, I had eliminated the three-wire connector, and soldered the wires together. This did not increase the output voltage -it was still 13.8. In retrospect, I should not have done the soldering, because now I cannot check the stator output without cutting the wires apart. Live and learn.
Cheers!

 

[PDWeyand]

I only added a ground to the out side of the r/r - so your saying to cut into the ground and the positive wires and run straight to the battery and skipping the connections

 

[Miles Long]

I only added a ground to the out side of the r/r - so your saying to cut into the ground and the positive wires and run straight to the battery and skipping the connections

PD-
Search the electrical forum, topic-"Charging issue", June of 2011
Firefly posted a diagram of the modification. I believe many forum members have done it, with good results.
The deviation to the mod that I did was to not cut the black and red connector. I just peeled off some insulation from both wires, just below the connector, and added pigtails to both. I soldered them, and of course taped them up well.
The red pigtail goes directly to the positive terminal of the battery, with a 30 amp in-line fuse spliced in. The black pigtail goes down to one of the bolts on top of the middle gear cover. Both pigtails have ring connectors soldered to them, to make these connections solid.
Although all the original wiring is still in place, the extra positive wire bypasses the crimp connection, as well as the original main fuse and it's connectors. This is why the in-line fuse is needed.
As I suggested previously, you should first check the output of your stator before doing these mods. Follow RaWarriors' excellent "sticky" to diagnose your charging system.
Good luck!

 

[Rhoy Carter]

Just add a positive wire with a 30 amp fuse from the rectifier to the battery

 

[PDWeyand]

I read Rawarriors' excellent sticky post a few times and was not sure. I took the ground off near oil fill, took a sanding wheel and my cordless drill to the place that the wire was bolted to, and the eyelet connection, then I took the Frame ground apart and clean them. I got worst numbers on the voltage meter after this. I took the r/r off 3 white wires and one red and one black. I cleaned one of the bolts and ran a ground that off the bolt / screw holding the r/r on to the battery. But what I should have done is get a inline fuse 30amp and jumped in front of that plug r/r side to the battery and the same thing to the ground without the fuse. And If I am to see any better number that would bring them up. Unless my r/r is toasting out or the stater. If I have to replace the stater what yr venture should I look for? Or will that even make any different in stater's? I just want to see more out of the system, I can tell the battery is taken a hit between starts each time the starter seems to work a little more.

 

[wiretwister]

Ive had countless issues with the charging system, You will see a great improvement if you wire the red charging wire direct to the battery.

I too made the switch to the finned R&R, for some reason it fried in less than a year (could have been a weak battery ), I had a NEW old style that I put back on it and It seems fine, I think they tend to run hot but as far as charging it was 14.8 or so at any RPM.

I too had stator issues once, I also suggest checking it out....These bikes seem to be plagued with such issues.

Is your stator plug melted al all ?? showing signs of excess heat ??
another common problem.

 

[PDWeyand]

No signs of heat on the stator wires or any of the plugs. It is a 98 with 9300 on the OD. Mine is oem I am sure of it and never been even looked at more less been off the bike before today. The bolts holding the foot peg where rusty and had to use a hammer to give a tap to get the mount off the bike. That why I ran a wire up to the ground side. I will get a 30 amp inline fuse and do the jump and see if it gets any better in the morning after the parts store opens. I rather cut out the problem and 'fix' it than chasing this gremlin. Electrical Gremlin's are a pita and I do thank everyone for helping me understand, I are not the brightest light bulb sometimes, but are willing to learn.