Won't turn off

Shop deals on ebay
Advertise with us
shop deals on amazon
VMAX Forum

Help Support VMAX Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
G

godsend1

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 11, 2007
Messages
304
Reaction score
0
Location
Georgia
Just replaced the right side controls, starter switch kil switch..test rode just fine.

Rode into work did quite a bit of idling bike is normal hot, went to turn it off with the key...notta. Kill switch kills it. Head light stays on no matter where the ignition key is.

Made it into work and pulled the 4 fuses under the faux tank. Will check switch operation when the bike is cold.

Any ideas real quick? Never had this problem before.
 
If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!
 
Miles Long said:
If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks Miles,

IS there a procedure to check the ignition switch in the manual? If not I'll look around here to find one.

Won't be able to get into it till I get the bike home.
 
godsend1 said:
Miles, I found your post in this thread:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=24414&highlight=turn
Click to expand...
godsend1 said:

that explains how to check the ign switch.

Thanks again.
Click to expand...


Yes, easy job, to check both switch and connector. You can do it all, just by disconnecting the three-pin, and setting your meter for continuity. No need to remove the ignition switch, unless of course it turns out to be the culprit.
Switch in off position - no continuity between any of the wires.
" " on " -continuity between all three wires.
" " park " - continuity between only the red and blue wires.
If all this checks out, then check the loom side of the connector. You will have battery voltage at the red wire terminal, nada at the brown and/or blue terminals - unless the plastic is shorted thru.
As you say, lots of tutorials in the electrical forum for reconditioning the switch, if needed.
 
I had that problem with my '86 - troubleshooted EVERYTHING and still it would not go off. I ended up temporarily wiring a killswitch inline with the main fuse from the battery, and hid it under the faux-tank near the fusebox.

In the end, I could never find where the short was, even though I unwrapped most of my wiring loom. Luckily I had a spare loom from another '86 (spare parts bike), so I ended up replacing the whole loom and that finally fixed it!
 
Miles Long said:
If the ignition switch checks out O.K., next check the three wire connector that connects the switch to the wiring loom. The brown and red wires may be making contact thru the plastic. This happened to my bike, and at least two others on this forum.
Cheers!
Click to expand...

Had this happen to my '85 700x and it can be a bitch to find. The connector can look perfect but somehow power will jump across that plastic partition! Even broke the plastic apart looking for a tiny crack but couldn't see one. I ordered a handful of 3 wire connectors and the male/female brass ends and replaced the entire thing.

Actually, the guy I bought the 700x from told me he had let it idle for a long time also (thinking it would start running better I guess).....not sure how that would relate to the problem but it is a common thread. :confused2:
 
Think I found it, disconnected the ignition connector everything is still on. checked continuity on the loom side ignition connector between the red/brown, and there is continuity.

When replacing the connector can I remove the broken connector leaving the spades on the wires and just slip them into the new connector?

Here's a couple of pics of the damaged connector:
 

Attachments

  • photo.JPG
    photo.JPG
    77 KB · Views: 24
  • photo (1).JPG
    photo (1).JPG
    79.3 KB · Views: 22
godsend1 said:
Think I found it, disconnected the ignition connector everything is still on. checked continuity on the loom side ignition connector between the red/brown, and there is continuity.

When replacing the connector can I remove the broken connector leaving the spades on the wires and just slip them into the new connector?
Click to expand...
godsend1 said:


Here's a couple of pics of the damaged connector:
Click to expand...


You could replace the connector, or do what I did - eliminate the connector completely, use three individual soldered, crimp connectors as a replacement. Never have to worry about this connection failing again!
Of course the down side - if you have to replace the ignition switch. For this reason, recondition (clean) the switch terminals first.
 
Get a new 3 wire connector, it may be worth it's weight in gold someday.

I soldered mine, then couldn't live with that and installed the connector....now I sleep good again! :biglaugh:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Zeus36
Headlight not working, bulb and fuse are good - FIXED
Replies
1
Views
233
Fire-medic
Fire-medic
Rgtrough
Loss of battery
Replies
7
Views
737
one2dmax
one2dmax
steamer97
First time for me elusive short circuit.
Replies
3
Views
583
Fire-medic
Fire-medic
Okie2ee
Battery Problem to Watch Out For (Possible Time Saver)
Replies
8
Views
1K
Gbianchi
G
T
Fuel system electrical issues.
Replies
4
Views
414
Tim spain
T

Latest posts

Back
Top