2001 Yamaha R1 issue

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Heretic

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I have a buddy who owns a 2001 R1 that will crank but not start when the engine is warm. Bike runs fine when warm with no stuttering, lack of power, etc., just won't re-start. Once the bike cools down, it starts fine. This is a carbureted bike. I would think coils, fuel pump (it has one), or something similar, but also think that it would cause the bike to run poorly when warm, which it does not.

Any ideas what the issue(s) could be?
 
When its warm check for a good spark. Somethings heating up. May be coils or regulator? But also may be stator. More than likely something I'm line with the spark and engine heat.

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Sounds like the ignition pick-up coil. read the ohms value when hot, I bet you find it's infinite (open-no continuity.).
 
What doesn't make sense is that as long as it's running then it's ok. I would put more on that something is not working correctly in the start part of the equation. This could be the battery warping and shorting while cranking. The voltage can drop enough to not allow the CDI to turn on but still allow the starter to turn over.
 
Sean, I read it as being a non-re-start 'when hot.' It starts when cold, but not when hot. That's what makes me think the pick-up coil. Mine began not allowing the bike to run, just shutting-off entirely once the bike came-up to temp. Let it cool-down, the bike would start. Then it began to not start at-all. Reading the resistance on the two leads showed an infinite resistance, (circuit 'open') instead of the 81-121 ohms the factory manual calls for the 1990-'07 ignition models.

Sure, it could be something else. But a multimeter is small, and can be carried in a jeans pocket w/no problem, to read the resistance when the problem occurs if the rider is willing to take a chance on being stranded when it happens again. Running it in the shop until hot, then trying to re-start it may be the best method to prevent being stranded.

What doesn't make sense is that as long as it's running then it's ok. I would put more on that something is not working correctly in the start part of the equation. This could be the battery warping and shorting while cranking. The voltage can drop enough to not allow the CDI to turn on but still allow the starter to turn over.
 
Lets step back just a little bit. Grab an extra spark plug, Get the bike up to temp and turn it off. now pull a plug wire and put it on the extra plug, and hold the plug against the block and crank the motor. (this would be best inside under fairly low light conditions so its easy to see. What we are looking for is if you have spark. Any time you have a problem getting an engine to run remember you need 3 things... Gas, Spark, and Air.

If you don't have spark, then the suggestions above are the way to go. However, You MAY have a good spark, but still won't start. I'm thinking about a problem a guy brought into the shop one time. It his case, he had done a "complete tune up" and now the bike would not start when hot. As it happened he had messed up on setting his valves. When it got hot he was loosing compression. As long as the bike was running, it would keep running because it could run with low compression but not start. I only saw that one time because most people simply aren't that exact on setting the valves and at least a couple of cylinders would fire when cranking.

Not saying thats the answer- chances are damn good it IS NOT, but the tracing procedure is the same. First find out if spark is the problem. Another "tool", IF you have spark, spray some starting fluid in the air cleaner and see if you get some fire. also, when the bike is running, try spraying some starter fluid (just a short hit) at he area where the carbs screw into the head. An increase in RPMs would point toward an air leak

If that is no help then it is time to pull the engine from the chasis pull it down, install the biggest big bore kit, racing springs, big cam, deck the block, ... well you know the program <BMFG> (sorry I'm the type that will use ANY excuse to "build" and engine...)
 
I agree w/'cgswss,' low compression from misadjusted valves could be the problem. When this type of problem arises, you have to start w/the 'basics,' and go from there. A compression test and a leakdown test should provide the info on rings and valves. Air sounds coming from the oil filler, bad rings. Air from the exhaust, or the carbs, bad valves, for whatever reason.
 
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i'd think about the battery myself. try jumping it when hot to a car battery to see if it exhibits the same issue?
 
Try bump-starting it next time it acts up. I'll bet you a dollar it will fire right up.

Classic Yamaha low voltage problems. The starter is dragging the voltage down too low for the ignition to work. This could be from the battery not charging well from a lousy stator or R/R, an old battery, or both. Continued low voltage accelerates the death of a battery as well
 
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