Yes, there is a fuse by the battery. It is visible with the seat removed. Located to the left of the coil bracket. It is the main fuse, 30A. If it is blown, nothing will work. It is indicated in the pic below.
There are other fuses located under the faux cover. Look to the left of the coolant reservoir. Indicated in pic below.
Not sure how much you do or don't know about the bike or vboost but check out this video. Its pretty crappy but at the end you will hear that when the key is turned on and the engine switch turned on the fuel pump clicks and the vboost cycles. The engine switch is turned off, then on again and you will hear only the vboost. If it sounds like this it should be working fine.
Remove the left scoop and take a look in there. The black box on the right is the vboost controller. There are two plugs on it. A round one, and a square one. The square one is the input. The round one is the output to the servo motor.
Should look something like this.
You want to test the servo motor to see if it works. Unplug the round connector. Locate the black wire with red stripe and the black wire with yellow stripe. Applow 12VDC directly to those wires. If you hear the servo working then its probably fine. See below for a pic of my connector that I have inserted some jumper wires in to manually activate vboost.
Check to see if you have power going into the controller. This is checked on the square plug. The red and black wire should have 12VDC on them if the key is on, ignition switch on. See pic below of my connector that I have inserted some jumper wires in. These jumpers run to a switch then the round connector pictured above.
If you have 12VDC on this connector with key on, switch on, AND the servo works when you apply power directly to it, chances are good the controller is bad. The controller is know to cause issues. If you hook everything up and wiggle the wires coming from the controller that go to the round connector and you hear the servo it may be able to be saved. You would need to remove the controller, open it up, remove the circuit board from the case, and try to re-solder the input and output wires to the circuit board. Removing the epoxy from the circuit board can be very difficult. You just need a touch of solder. This may or may not save it but its worth a shot. This is what it looks like opened up.
If you find the controller to be bad, and it cannot be saved, you have a few options. One is to borrow one from Sean Morley. He will loan it to you and if it works, you buy it. If not, return it and pay shipping. Another is to buy a new OEM one. Another is to buy an aftermarket one from micromachines.
http://micromachines.ca/vboost_controller.htm
Or, you can do something like I did and spend about $8 on a double pole double throw switch and mount it on the bike and manually control vboost. I leave vboost open all the time but can close it to synch the carbs when needed. I used a DP/DT switch that reverses polarity. One direction of the switch opens vboost, the other direction closes it. Takes too many words to describe how to wire the switch but if anyone is interested I can draw it up. I'm not good at drawing though, LOL. Here is a pic of the switch mounted. Its only temporary so its nothing fancy but it works well enough.
Hopefully something here helps. If not, at least I tried.
.
